Is Azimuth taking a gamble?

Azimuth is taking a gamble in the form of a roulette table complete with a roulette wheel and table and placing it as the dial of a modified ETA 2824-2 automatic mechanical luxury watch. The Azimuth Roulette Watch is another brilliant concept watch that really works. The dice winding crown serves two purposes, one to set the watch and another to activate the spinning ball. Simply depress and release the winding crown and the white ball spins around the roulette wheel halting at any random slot. The entire miniature roulette wheel is enclosed in sapphire crystal.
The watch is large at 45mm x 34mm, produced from CNC cut 316L stainless steel; however, Azimuth's ergonomically design featuring a curved case back makes for comfortable wearing. y be (at 45mm x 34mm), this block of CNC cut 316L stainless steel case is ergonomically design to ensure a snug fit.
As one can see in the image of the case back the words, “BEAT THE CASINO!” are engraved adding some fun and adventure to the watch design.
Azimuth's founders, Christopher Long and Alvyn Lye, has succeeded again in crafting a timepiece that has the horological world buzzing.
The Roulette (as its so aptly named) is to be released in time for the opening of Singapore’s first and Asia’s grandest Casino towards end of 2009 where 5000 pieces will be available. I do not know about pricing yet, but I have a hunch one may need to hit the jackpot before one makes the purchase.

Does the Number of Watch Jewels make a difference?

In the 1950's The Waltham Watch Company of Waltham, Mass introduced a 100 jewel watch. Only 17 of the jewels were functional meaning those 17 jewel were placed between the gears of the watch to reduce friction, hold lubricant longer , reduce the amount of lubricant needed, increase temperature stability and reduce corrosion. (All reasons jewels are used in movements today) There were two cap jewels, two pivot jewels, an impulse jewel for the balance wheel, two pivot jewels, two pallet jewels for the pallet fork, and two pivot jewels each for the escape, fourth, third and center wheels. The remaining 83 jewels were simply placed at the edge of the automatic rotor (seen above). These jewels had absolutely no function and so created the watch with the most amount of non-functional jewels. Although there is a space for a 101th jewel on the automatic rotor, the space is vacant as 101 jewels does not sound as marketable as 100 jewels.
The Walthman Watch Company closed its doors in 1957 as a result of financial stress and less than perfect craftsmanship, it seems the 100 Jewel Watch was its last desperate attempt to make a sale. The company relied on the fact that many people believed the more jewels the more precise the watch movement. People may have believed the jewels were actually worth something.
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In fact most jewels are synthetic costing very little and the jewels themselves are worth very little.

In the 1940's and 1950's many companies were upping there non-functional jewel count without increasing the complications. Between 1902 and 1965 it was "anything goes" in regard to the amount of jewels in a watch movement. In addition the amount of jewels were stated on the dial as a marketing ploy. Then in October 1965, the Swiss organization NIHS - Normes de I'industrie Horlogre Suisse, whose function was to develop the standards for the Swiss Watch Industry, published a standard (NIHS 94-10) in order to control the way in which the number of jewels in a movement are used in advertising and any sales related to horology and timekeepers. In 1974, the NIHS and ISO 1112 which was recently updated in ISO 1112:2009 specifies the technical definitions of functional and non-functional horological movement jewels. In addition it describes the different types of jewels used, and how this is to be marked on a timekeeping instrument or used in advertising. In this way the type of jewels used, the amount of jewels used and the way in which the jewels can be used to increase the jewel count of the watch is outlined.

Today the more jewels indicate more complications as there are more moving parts. The more jewels used, the less the wear and tear on the watch parts. Many watch companies use 21 jewels and some ETA movements use 25 jewels. The jewels themselves are valued at very little since most are synthetic; however, it is the well placed functionality in conjunction with superior craftsmanship of the watch part that attract watch enthusiasts and horology admirers.

The Largest Ruby in the world!

The 125West Ruby is one of the world's largest known ruby crystal weighing in at 8.2lbs and amounting to 18,696 Carats. The Ruby crystal is semi-translucent to opaque and contains rutile. If cut en cabochon, this may create a six ray star. When exposed to long-wave ultraviolet light, the ruby displays a strong red fluorescence. It measures 122.4mm x 112.3mm x 133.9mm.

If you have doubts this gem is certified by the Gemology Institute of America Report 15171991 dated May 24th, 2006. If carved this Ruby would be the largest ruby curvature in the world. If cut en cabochon, the 125West Ruby would be the largest cut and polished ruby gemstone in the world.

Rubies have a long history as part of the mechanics of a watch. In 1702, Nicolas Fatio (Facio) de Duillier, a Swiss mathematician who was born in Basel, Switzerland, and Pierre and Jacob Debaufre introduced Jewel Bearings in watches to reduce friction. The jewels were not widely used until the middle of the 19th century. Until the 20th Century these jewels were ground from tiny pieces of natural gems. The watches had garnet and quartz, but it was the luxury top quality watches that used sapphire, ruby and even diamonds.

In 1902, a process to grow artificial sapphire crystals was invented, thereby making the jewels cheaper. In most modern watches, synthetic rubies (left image) are used between the moving parts, especially in the escapement and have a major effect on the timekeeping accuracy. It was discovered the harder the material used as bearings, the lessor the friction. Thus the ultra hard slick surface has a lower coefficient of friction with metal. In addition Rubies increase the life of the bearings. Rubies is the second hardest material after diamond and seven times harder than topaz. The Ruby belongs to the Coronado group of minerals, its name stemming from the red color (Latin: Rubeus). Red corundum is always called by the name Ruby whereas any other colors of corundum are known as Sapphires. The only difference between synthetic sapphire and ruby is as a result of the different impurities that have been added to change the color. There is absolutely no difference in their properties as bearings. Rubies can be opaque, translucent or transparent.

The very best watches have a 21 jewel movement; some have slightly more and some less. Some ETA movements use a 25 jewel movement which is a question of style rather than functionality.

The question regarding the number of jewels in a watch is a interesting one, and I will blog about it in due course.

As always let me know what you think about any points I bring up in the blogs. I love to hear feedback.

The riveting Corum Ti-Bridge.

What do you think of the latest Corum creation? I think its pretty cool. It is the Ti-Bridge. The Ti-bridge is a charming timepiece sporting a Corum in-house movement - the CO 007. The movement is a hand wound mechanical baguetter movement with a frequency of 4Hz, 28,800 vibrations per hour and 21 jewels. Bridges are undoubtedly Corum's forte as Corum has an entire collection ,the Golden Bridge Collection, focused on the bridge. Although the idea has its similarities the movement is utterly different and quite revolutionary. Needless to say while the watch manufacturers are clambering to get a spot in the limelight with their cutting edge and unique timepieces, Corum has done quite well for itself. The Ti-Bridge is Corum's second in house Caliber which is heralding a new line of contemporary timepieces.

The bridges and plates are comprised of titanium, an incredibly strong light transition metal with exceptional corrosive resistance to sea water, chlorine and aqua regia (an extremely corrosive foaming yellow solution). In addition, the bridges are satin finished. The movement is crafted from grade 5 titanium as titanium is a tough material to work with and it is only grade 5 that can be polish-finished. The movement is secured within a curved tonneau-shaped case ,measuring 42.5 by 41.5mm, by a set of two titanium cross bars. These bars strengthen the structure of the watch as well as adding to the contemporary look. It reminds me of a loft apartment where the beams on the roof remain exposed. There is no dial as the hands are suspended above a Satin finished bridge engraved with the Corum name.

The hands are coated with Superluminova which enables one to view the time in the dark. The watch has a 72 hour power reserve an a 50 meter water resistance.

The Ti-Bridge is presented with a crocodile strap and a titanium-capped triple folding clasp. This unique watch is available in limited edition of only 750 pieces which will only be available in 2009.

Talk to me Harry Winston. Tell me all about it.

Recognize the title from Marylin Monroe's "Diamonds are a girls best friend."? Although the Harry Winston Opus 9 Watch is not a girl's watch, on the contrary it is quite masculine, never the less Harry Winston has chosen a diamond conveyor belt comprised of 33 baguette cut diamonds (Harry Winston's signature cut) and a single vivacious garnet to tell the time. The Opus 9 Timepiece puts its diamonds (and garnet) to work rather than letting them merely sit pretty. ( I am in no way downplaying the aesthetic role diamonds play in a timepiece, but it is quite refreshing to see the diamonds actively taking part in the role of telling the time)

The time display is easy to read, as the garnet indicates the hour on the first chain and the minutes on the second chain. The chains are meticulously crafted from brass to ensure the utmost mobility and the least friction. The brass is unnoticeable and the gems seem to glide on thin air making their way along the conveyor belt.

A strong automatic movement pulls the chain via a rack and pinion mechanism. This mechanism creates the lateral drive required to convert rational time into linear time and to propel the continual gliding movement. Although the conveyor belt is not a new concept, a conveyor belt comprising of diamonds is, and so meticulous planning is needed to account for the combined weight of the gems, the friction and gravitational pull, as well as the weight of each individual stone crucial for the ultimate balance of the watch. The large 18k white gold watch case (56mm tall by 48mm wide, and 20mm thick) is sculptured drawing instant attention to the diamond chain and at the same time enhancing the movement. The case is crafted in white gold with a structural bridge required for technical stability as well as providing a aesthetic appeal to the watch face. The bridge creates a lynch pin lock that secures the mobile components of the watch and thereby providing added stability and shock resistance.

The timepiece is completely encased in Sapphire crystal so that the glittering chain can be viewed from all angles. The strap is black alligator leather further enhancing its elegant appearance .

The Opus 9 is a commendable addition to The Opus Series. A series Harry Winston launched in 2001 committed to restructure the display of time in innovative, trend setting and creative ways. Mechanical Marvels really. Harry Winston is achieving this feat by partnering the industries most respected independent watch makers and designers, masters in the art and science of watch making. The Opus 9 is the result of the collaboration between Harry Winston and long time designer and watch maker, Jean-Marc Wiederrecht ,winner of the Grand Prix 2007 Best Watch Maker Designer, and designer Eric Girourd who has a background in architecture. The Opus 9 is the first time that these two remarkably talented individuals have joined forces and designed a luxury timepiece.

In the Opus tradition all three partners -Harry Winston, Jean-Marc Wiederrecht and Eric Giroud- are engraved on the bottom of the case. Only 100 pieces of this remarkable and ground breaking timepiece are available. The price tag is $180,000. A price encompassing innovation, exclusivity, remarkable craftsmanship, a handsome timepiece and diamonds at work.

The changing faces of De Grisogono Otturatore Luxury Watch.

Complications without clutter is the best way I can describe a De Grisogono Otturatore. At first glance one perceives a remarkable looking watch with an 18K Pink gold curved rectangular case, bold hands hour markers, and an aperture displaying the power reserve display at the 6 'o'clock position. On further scrutiny ,as scrutinizing watches is what we love to do, a thin circular crevice gives us a hint of mystery and in the image below the mystery is uncovered.The face of the De Grisogono automatic Otturatore Luxury timepiece has a rotating dial which functions via a complex mechanism comprising of more than one hundred individual components assembled in modular fashion on the movement. By pressing a large button at the 2 'o'clock position on the right side of the case, the dial can be turned in one rapid ninety degree movement in either direction. Either the date display at the 3 'o'clock position jumps into view or the power reserve display at the 6 'o'clock position or the subsidiary seconds at the 9 'o'clock position or the moon phase indicator at the 12 'o'clock position.

There is no question , the craftsmanship and ingenuity of this timepiece is absolutely superb.

Weigh in on this watch!

I came across this watch at Stauer, a company settled comfortably in the bygone era between 1910 and 1950's for those people who love vintage designed watches. This 1930's Dashtronic Limited Edition Watch is only $99. The watch has a jumping hour mechanism which was popular in the 1930's and which is making a prolific come back. This watch has all the appeal of a vintage watch; however, the overall look is more like the bathroom scale. I can't help myself but imagine a small creature standing in the center of the watch and gloomily stare at the indicator as the scale spins far beyond the desired weight. Although the watch has an uncanny bathroom scale resemblance, it is a 21 jewel automatic movement as well as being 3-ATM water with a stainless steel case and a black alligator leather band.