Montblanc's contribution to the Only Watch Auction 2011, held tomorrow in Monaco to raise funds for the research and treatment of Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy, is quite relevant indeed. Beyond the bezel of the lower portion of the watch is a Pulsographe. A Puslographe is a vintage scale on a timepiece, usually displayed in red, which was used in conjunction with a chronograph and reduced the amount of time a doctor was required to check the pulse of a patient. The Pulsographe was most helpful in World War I, when a doctor had many soldiers wounded in battle and a limited amount of time. For instance in a pulsographe calibrated for thirty pulse beats, like the Montblanc Villeret 1858 Pulsographe, a Doctor would feel the pulse of the patient and at the same time depress the chronograph button. He would then count until thirty beats and stop the chronograph. The chronograph hand would point to the patients pulse per minute on the pulsographe scale.
The first watch to have this feature was the Heuer Pulsographe. It was when Charles-Auguste Heuer, son of Edouard Heuer founder of E.Heuer & Compagnie" went to visit his doctor. The Doctor checked his pulse for the usual 60 seconds. This procedure was slow and often prone to inaccuracies, Charles-Auguste Heuer decided that he could invent a better more efficient way to measure a heart beat. He set to work and in 1908 invented a Sphygmometer Chronograph. This Sphygmometer could measure the heartbeat with greater reliability. (Is the Montblanc then a Sphygmometer?) This Sphygmometer was too costly as a result of the chronograph function, and thus he developed a Pulsographe, which had the scale but no chronograph function.
The Montblanc Villeret 1858 Pulsographe will sit well around any doctor's wrist. An 18k gold 39.5mm case is a mere 12.1mm thick and protects a chronograph calibre MB 13.21, which is entirely visible via a Sapphire crystal case back. The hand-decorated components are polished and finished creating an eye catching performance of precision. The plates and bridges are crafted in rhodium-plated nickel silver. The bridges themselves are embellished with bevels that have been manually polished.
The enamel dial sporting Arabic Numerals reminiscent of vintage medical calibration machines; a red Pulsographe scale calibrated to 30 pulse beats, as well as the finely placed sub dials are protected beneath a domed sapphire crystal . At the 2 '0' clock position, a chronograph pusher executes the chronograph function as well as stops and resets it.
Montblanc has portrayed its commitment to fine quality, precision and finishing in its Only Watch 2011.
Showing posts with label Only Watch Auction. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Only Watch Auction. Show all posts
Thursday, September 22, 2011
Wednesday, September 14, 2011
The Cricket in Vulcain's Anniversary Heart Watch for Only Watch 2011
The Only Watch Auction 2011 is an incredible opportunity for fine watch companies to display a unique watch which incorporates individual achievements pertinent to that company. For example, Vulcain's Anniversary Heart Watch harbors the Cricket movement - a movement unique to Vulcain's heritage - as well as a skeletonized dial - another Vulcain signature.
If you are unfamiliar with the Cricket movement, it is an alarm function or reminder function specifically designed by Vulcain for the smaller dimensions of a wrist watch. In this day an age with fancy electronic devices, alarms are taken for granted or even despised. Alarms appear everywhere from $1 digital watches to innovative allusive alarm clocks which actually roll around. However prior to the quartz revolution, all watches were mechanical and relied entirely on the harmonious sequential functioning of multitudes of working parts. At first watches displayed the time in increasing precision, then compasses, tourbillons, perpetual calenders, moon-phases, dual time zones and automatic movements increased the functionality and efficiency of the time pieces. Prior to the early twentieth century, these complications were incorporated in pocket watches, but after Santos-Dumont popularized the wrist watch, pocket watches were laid down in favor of the more handy wrist watch. Alarm functions were available in larger pocket watches and with a larger watch case, the capability of producing a louder sound is evident.
However an effective alarm function in a wrist watch was a quite a challenge to develop. Being that the watch case is small, it was hard to produce a loud audible gong which would arouse a heavy sleeper from slumber..
An alarm function had three problems within a wristwatch case:
1) Audibility
2) Effecting Dust protection
3) Effecting Water resistance
... then in 1947 the problem was solved and heavy sleepers could rest easy, Vulcain presented the Vulcain Cricket. The Cricket was so loud it could penetrate the dreams and arouse the sleeper. This new alarm function woke up the World of Horology.
So how did Robert Ditisheim of Vulcain resolve the alarm audibility dilemma? Well as the name suggests, he turned to mother nature. Let me ask you this. Have you ever tried to fall asleep while a cricket is chirping its nightly song outside your window? Did you hug a pillow to your ear inorder to drown out the noise, but still heard its persistent resonance. AHH! Now you have your answer.
If a tiny cricket could cause such a noise, than surely a wristwatch could do the same. Robert Ditsheim Incorporated a resonance-chamber like that of a cricket by fitting a two-part back to the watch case. The inner back encloses the watch case and serves to generate the sound. A hammer strikes the watch-case ,which oscillates and produces the sound-waves. The outer case has a twofold function: First it permits the sound-generating inner-back to oscillate freely as it has no direct contact with the wearer's wrist. Second it forms a small space between the inner case back which serves as a resonance chamber. Although many Watch Companies have crafted mechanical minute repeaters, none is quite as loud as the Vulcain Cricket.
The Vulcains's Anniversary Heart Watch is a slender mechanical hand wound 12.7mm thick 42mm rose gold case. Being that the watch is hand wound, an oscillating weight (required in most automatic watches) is absent, thereby leaving the exceptionally crafted movement including the skillfully handcrafted main plate, barrel bridge and movement barrel entirely visible beyond the sapphire crystal case back, as well as maintaining the thinness of the watch case.
The Vulcain Cricket sports a 20 second alarm function and a 42 hour power reserve. Ensuring the watch is securely fitted around the wrist, a rose gold buckle is affixed to a black alligator strap.
The Vulcain Cricket sports a 20 second alarm function and a 42 hour power reserve. Ensuring the watch is securely fitted around the wrist, a rose gold buckle is affixed to a black alligator strap.
Monday, September 12, 2011
De Bethune Only Watch 2011 Sensual Celestial Charm
De Bethune Only Watch seems as though it is a porthole to the heavens. Unparalleled watch making expertise accompanied by exquisite renditions of a star filled sky make the DB25 a truly unique display of time. The exact placement of the stars depicted on the dial are in the very same position as the night in Monaco of January 8th, 1297. The very night Francois Grimaldi, Genoese leader of the Guelphs, dressed as a Franciscan monk, captured the rock. De Bethune's Orion and Gemini Constellations are 14 invisibly set white diamonds, while 91 surrounding stars are touches of applied white gold upon a memorizing flame-blued titanium dial providing a sense of the incredible infinite expansiveness of the universe.
Looking at the 6'o'clock position, one notices an aperture displaying a solid silver sandblasted hour and minute discs with Roman Hours and Arabic minute discs or wandering hours. The use of silver as well as the use of both Arabic and Roman Numerals adds a subtle sense of mystery to the timepiece.
The elegant 44mm 18k white gold three body round drum case protects a precise Cal. DB2105S comprising of a twin self -regulating barrel and a De Bethune silicon-platinum annular balance; main plate and bridges in beveled and hand-polished steel; balance spring with flat terminal curve. In addition, the watch is equipped with no less than 29 jewels, which ensure smooth seamless transfer of operations. The incredible movement is visible via a scratch resistant Sapphire crystal case back. Large hollowed lugs secure an alligator strap which fastens with an 18k white gold signature De Bethune buckle.
If you out bid the competition in the Only Watch Auction, which will be held by Antiquorium in Monaco at the end of this month to raise funds and awareness for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy, you will receive this watch in a fitted box accompanied by a Certificate. Wish price EUR 100,000 - 150, 000 (source Antiquorium)
De Bethune was established in 2002 by David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet, with the vision of upholding the watchmaking tradition. Crafting mechanical timepieces with the aid of cutting edge technological advancements and longstanding watch making craftsmanship, De Bethune has succeeded in making a name among watch aficionados and acquiring 9 patent registrations, 11 in-house calibres validated by intense research. De Bethune has not only succeeded in crafting a timepiece with perfect precision and exceptional craftsmanship, but has created a piece of remarkable beauty and grace.
Looking at the 6'o'clock position, one notices an aperture displaying a solid silver sandblasted hour and minute discs with Roman Hours and Arabic minute discs or wandering hours. The use of silver as well as the use of both Arabic and Roman Numerals adds a subtle sense of mystery to the timepiece.
The elegant 44mm 18k white gold three body round drum case protects a precise Cal. DB2105S comprising of a twin self -regulating barrel and a De Bethune silicon-platinum annular balance; main plate and bridges in beveled and hand-polished steel; balance spring with flat terminal curve. In addition, the watch is equipped with no less than 29 jewels, which ensure smooth seamless transfer of operations. The incredible movement is visible via a scratch resistant Sapphire crystal case back. Large hollowed lugs secure an alligator strap which fastens with an 18k white gold signature De Bethune buckle.
If you out bid the competition in the Only Watch Auction, which will be held by Antiquorium in Monaco at the end of this month to raise funds and awareness for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy, you will receive this watch in a fitted box accompanied by a Certificate. Wish price EUR 100,000 - 150, 000 (source Antiquorium)
De Bethune was established in 2002 by David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet, with the vision of upholding the watchmaking tradition. Crafting mechanical timepieces with the aid of cutting edge technological advancements and longstanding watch making craftsmanship, De Bethune has succeeded in making a name among watch aficionados and acquiring 9 patent registrations, 11 in-house calibres validated by intense research. De Bethune has not only succeeded in crafting a timepiece with perfect precision and exceptional craftsmanship, but has created a piece of remarkable beauty and grace.
Monday, August 22, 2011
Hublot Oceanographic 4000 for Only Watch 2011
Back in April I blogged about Hublot's Diver watch, which could accompany a diver down 4000m - if a diver could in fact dive to that depth. In reality a diver cannot . Hublot made this watch as a symbolic gesture to push the limits of rationality and endurance. One thing is for certain, if the Hublot Oceanographic watch is unwittingly dropped over the side of a ship, it will merrily keep on ticking ,surrounded by inquisitive fish, on the ocean floor since the Hublot Oceanographic can endure the pressure and resist water at a depth of 4000m. Hublot spent 18 months of intense research and development to create a watch with this type of water resistance and pressure endurance.
The model depicted above is based on the original Diver's Watch and is Hublot's contribution to the Only Watch Auction 2011, to raise charity for the awareness and research of Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy.
For a watch to be presented by a company for the Only Watch Auction it must be either the first watch of a limited edition, or a completely unique model.
Hublot's Oceanographic 4000 timepiece is unique in that it is the very first watch crafted from ultra-technical carbon fiber. The watches colors - bright red with white accents- represent the colors of Monaco's flag. The signature "King Power" 48mm case and bezel is crafted from an attractive and powerful Matt Carbon Fiber. The Matt Black dial sports bold red indexes treated with white SuperLuminova, which enables clear dial readout in murky or dark conditions. The dial is protected by Scratch Resistant Sapphire crystal. The watch is powered with precision by HUB1401 automatic movement comprised of 180 components and 23 jewels with a 42 hour power reserve. The red stitched alligator strap on black rubber accentuates the red on the dial and is affixed to the wrist via a black PVD titanium ardillon buckle. bright red strap complements the red on the
The model depicted above is based on the original Diver's Watch and is Hublot's contribution to the Only Watch Auction 2011, to raise charity for the awareness and research of Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy.
For a watch to be presented by a company for the Only Watch Auction it must be either the first watch of a limited edition, or a completely unique model.
Hublot's Oceanographic 4000 timepiece is unique in that it is the very first watch crafted from ultra-technical carbon fiber. The watches colors - bright red with white accents- represent the colors of Monaco's flag. The signature "King Power" 48mm case and bezel is crafted from an attractive and powerful Matt Carbon Fiber. The Matt Black dial sports bold red indexes treated with white SuperLuminova, which enables clear dial readout in murky or dark conditions. The dial is protected by Scratch Resistant Sapphire crystal. The watch is powered with precision by HUB1401 automatic movement comprised of 180 components and 23 jewels with a 42 hour power reserve. The red stitched alligator strap on black rubber accentuates the red on the dial and is affixed to the wrist via a black PVD titanium ardillon buckle. bright red strap complements the red on the
Friday, August 12, 2011
Romain Jerome Only Watch 2011 Dial Extracted from Rock of Monaco
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| Romain Jerome Rock the Rock DNA |
Red lines of Latitude and Longitude on the rock dial and small seconds hand intersect at the Principality of Monaco. The Red line of Longitude extend from dial to black rolled-edge alcantara strap. Beneath the rock dial within a 46mm PVD black case beats a Caliber C22RJ51- Automatic Mechanical movement with a power reserve of 42 hours. The sides of the case are crafted from black satin-finished PVD-coated steel complimented by the same material on the lugs and lug inserts. The paws are crafted from highly resilient black ceramic and titanium screws and the crown is comprised of black PVD coated steel with rubber..
On the case back is a Rock the Rock engraving. This watch is a Limited Edition of One, and part of Romain Jerome's DNA collection.
Monday, August 8, 2011
The Striking Breguet Réveil Musical Only Watch 2011
Breguet has unveiled a touching timepiece for the Only Watch Auction to be held this September at Monaco Yacht Show to raise charity for the research of Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. A child upon the dial face reaches to grasp the hand of an adult. Breguet cites the significance of this gesture as a symbol of inter-generational solidarity and support for research on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. This watch is based on Breguet's newest model of its Classique Complications Collection.
A ring of musical notes upon an elegantly engraved musical stave surround the 48mm 18 carat white gold watch case hinting at a song. The song "castle in the sky" emanates from the watch via a unique patented music box mechanism, either on demand or at a preset time. A push button at the 10 'o'clock position starts the music. This model is based on Breguet's new self-winding movement incorporating a silicon escapement with a Breguet balance-spring. The Réveil Musical timepiece houses a ingenious patented musical mechanism.
A disc baring pins replaces the traditional music-box cylinder and alternately acts on the 15 metal teeth of the comb. A Liquidmetal® membrane engine-turned by hand amplifies the frequencies required to emit the tune.
During the song, the dial turns a complete 360 degrees. A 55 hour power reserve, displayed in vivid blue via an aperture at the 3 'o'clock position indicates if the song will play. If not enough power is available, the song will not begin. The song , not only serves an entertainment function, but also serves as an alarm. To determine whether the alarm is on or off, one only has to glance at a discrete round aperture between the 9 and 10 'clock. The most touching aspect of the watch is the rotating hand-gouilloche dial engraved with the image of a boy stretching out his hand to meet the hand of the adult on the flange.
Blued steel hollow moon tipped hands display the time, while a delicately carved Treble Clef serves as a counter balance to the seconds hand.
The Breguet Réveil Musical Only Watch 2011 is powered by a mechanical self-winding movement Calibre 0900 and water resistant to 30 meters. The watch is numbered and bares the Breguet signature as well as the inscription "piece unique" on the case back.
A ring of musical notes upon an elegantly engraved musical stave surround the 48mm 18 carat white gold watch case hinting at a song. The song "castle in the sky" emanates from the watch via a unique patented music box mechanism, either on demand or at a preset time. A push button at the 10 'o'clock position starts the music. This model is based on Breguet's new self-winding movement incorporating a silicon escapement with a Breguet balance-spring. The Réveil Musical timepiece houses a ingenious patented musical mechanism.
A disc baring pins replaces the traditional music-box cylinder and alternately acts on the 15 metal teeth of the comb. A Liquidmetal® membrane engine-turned by hand amplifies the frequencies required to emit the tune.
During the song, the dial turns a complete 360 degrees. A 55 hour power reserve, displayed in vivid blue via an aperture at the 3 'o'clock position indicates if the song will play. If not enough power is available, the song will not begin. The song , not only serves an entertainment function, but also serves as an alarm. To determine whether the alarm is on or off, one only has to glance at a discrete round aperture between the 9 and 10 'clock. The most touching aspect of the watch is the rotating hand-gouilloche dial engraved with the image of a boy stretching out his hand to meet the hand of the adult on the flange.
Blued steel hollow moon tipped hands display the time, while a delicately carved Treble Clef serves as a counter balance to the seconds hand.
The Breguet Réveil Musical Only Watch 2011 is powered by a mechanical self-winding movement Calibre 0900 and water resistant to 30 meters. The watch is numbered and bares the Breguet signature as well as the inscription "piece unique" on the case back.
Friday, July 22, 2011
Van Cleef & Arpels Whimsical Display of Space for Only Watch Auction
Van Cleef & Arpels Only Watch "From the Earth to the Moon" is a whimsical
childlike representation of space. A perfect choice for the Only Watch Auction in Monaco to benefit the research and treatment of Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. A terrible debilitating childhood disease. The dial of the watch is a display of color depicting bright stars and colorful planets. A vivid orange and red planet encircled by rings or is it the sun indicating orbits (I can't tell - my knowledge of astronomy needs some work) command the top of the watch and separate the retrograde hours and minutes. A tiny rocket ship travels from 0 to 60 pointing to the minutes, whilst a shooting star travels from 1 to 12 indicating the hours. At their end points, both rocket ship and star shoot back to the 0 or 1 respectively. The watch is a true retrograde displaying the time in an arc as opposed to the traditional analog dial. The earth displayed at the very bottom of the watch is a healthy green and blue planet spilling over onto the bezel. Mars - The Red Planet takes center stage. Van Cleef & Arpels uses inlays of jade, agate, meteorite and Champlevé-style enamel, to achieve true primary colors. The watch is powered by a JLC Caliber 846 manuel-wind mechanical movement equipped with a unique retrograde mechanism found exclusively in Van Cleef & Arpels Timepieces. The Van Cleef & Arpel "From the Earth to the Moon" is part of the exquisite "Poetic Complication Timepieces"
Video of Van Cleef & Arpels Magnificent "Les Voyages Extraordinnaires"Dials
Tuesday, July 19, 2011
Corum Golden Bridge Automatic Only Watch 2011
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| Corum Golden Bridge Automatic Only Watch 2011 - Case Back |
Introduced in the 1980's, the Golden Bridge Collection was quite unique, not in the representation of time, but in the representation of the movement. However for the past 30 + years the Golden Bridge was a manually wound watch requiring daily winding. Manual winding, although still used in some haute joaillerie watches, is a thing of the past. Corum realized for the success of the Golden Bridge movement its ability to wind automatically, (by the gentle swinging motion of ones arm) and not by the constant winding of the crown, was imperative. However to convert the Golden Bridge movement from manual winding to automatic proved quite a challenge, as a result of the linear effect of the whole design. A semi-circular rotor was out of the question. It took Corum four years of research and development ,encompassing metallurgy and physics, to finally unveil an effective linear winding system.The movement: A Corum Caliber C0313 - an automatic linear-winding baguette. One can actually view the winding mechanism from the watch face, both sides, and from the case back, as the entire movement is on display protected by scratch resistant anti-glare sapphire crystal.
Linear Oscillating Weight:
Material: Platinum - one of the rarest elements in the earth's crust, dense, resistant to corrosion and stable at even very high temperatures.
Weight: 4 Grams
Range of movement: 1 cm then motion is slowed by a system of gaskets and then slides back thereby requiring minimal energy to perform the sliding movement with minimal friction. This dampening ensures no damage occurs from the forceful contact of the oscillating weight to other parts of the movement. Another precaution Corum has taken to prevent any damage from the sliding motion of the oscillating weight is by using Beryllium Copper in the contact zones between the chariot and rails. Beryllium Copper attains the highest strength to any copper-based alloy, physically tough, non-magnetic and retains its shape if subjected to repeated stress and strain (ref Wikipedia).
the
As the linear oscillating weight slides back and forth along its PTFE Teflon coated steel rails, the energy is transmitted to a rack attached to the oscillating weight which is constantly engaged with a reverser system allowing for undirectional winding. In addition to enhance effectiveness and reduce friction, ball bearings are used. Due to the clever compilation of the parts, and the fitting materials used, no lubrication is required.
Watch Movement: The movement powered by the linear winding mechanism is a Caliber C0313, equipped with a variable-inertia balance, comprised of 194 parts beating at 28,800 vph and sporting a 40 hour power reserve. The barrel has been reduced, so as not to break the graceful longitudinal perception of the movement. The exquisitely crafted main plate and bridges are fashioned from 18k white gold featuring a unique vertical guilloche motif matching the oscillating weight.
The Only Watch 2011 Golden Bridge Automatic case is crafted from titanium covered in a Titalyt (not sure if this is the same Richard Mille Titalyt process of titanium oxidation by electro-plasma or not ). The case with its matt exterior and hardy charcoal hue evokes a sense of indestructibility and incredible durability. The red stitching on the black crocodile leather strap compliment the dark shades of the watch. It is a pity this watch is limited to one, but I think Corum is experimenting with the "car racing" designs that are quite successful in other brands like Chopard, Fortis, Tag Heuer, BRM e.t.c
Corum has always seemed a little reserved and outdated in their representation of their Golden Bridge Collection, but the new color scheme of the Only Watch 2011 really works.
Tuesday, July 12, 2011
A Panda on a Thunderbolt MB&F HM4 Only Watch Auction

He is in a wheel chair now, watching Todd and Jack kick around a soccer ball; smiling a little as the ball bounces into Mrs Nell's rose garden for about the hundredth time that day, and Mrs Nell coming out and yelling again. The sky is the perfect blue, and the sun delivering just the right amount of warmth... and he, Sam, is inside.
"Sam shall I wheel you outside for a bit, just to catch some sun," his mother had asked, pain and worry naked in her eyes.
"No! I'm good" he lied wanting desperately to be like every other kid on a hot summer's day, wanting desperately to run again.
"Hey Sam!" Todd yells, and runs... runs towards the window. Sam quickly closes the blinds. Sam hears his mother say, " Todd, maybe another day okay."
The room is cool, and Sam ,clutching his stuffed Panda, closes his eyes. In an instant he is no longer "Sam stuck in a wheelchair in the house on a great day Sam". He is Sam "Master of the Thunderbolt with Panda Second in Command." Panda and Sam climb into the seat between the powerful turbine engines and he takes hold of the reigns. The Thunderbolt roars to life, and he Sam, "Master of the Thunderbolt with Panda Second in Command" begins to soar. The Thunderbolt plummets across open fields, houses, cities towns turning everything into a colorful blur, people hold onto hats looking up, but all they see is the sun glinting on a tiny dash of metal. The wind is whipping at his hair and ruffling Panda's fur. Sam turns to Panda and yells across the fiery din of the engines, "It is time Panda! It his time!" Sam points the Thunderbolt towards the galaxies filled with planets to explore and comets to race.
The imagination of a child so free from the confines of physical ailments, and perfectly represented by MB & F HM4 (Horological Machine 4) Thunderbolt Timepiece. A Panda, representing a child's bedside companion during illness, atop a flying machine. The Thunderbolt is MB & F's contribution towards the Only Watch Auction in
The Thunderbolt is an impressive Horological Machines created with much unbridled creativity by Horological genius Maximilian Büsser in collaboration with Paris-based Chinese artist, Huang Hankang, who painted the Panda astride the Thunderbolt which served as the reference for the HM4 Only Watch. The painting will accompany the watch sold to the highest bidder.
Crafted from solid gold, a panda bear controls the Thunderbolt's golden reigns. The Panda and reigns are removable leaving the HM4 as we know it. Huang Hankang signature is crafted on the sapphire crystal case-back. Just at a glance, even a novice acknowledges, this timepiece is something quite different from the dial, movement, strap norm. After all the case of this timepiece or Horological Machine (a term MB & F most prefers) is comprised of two miniature turbine on either side of a central platform, which houses most of the complication. 311 in-house specialized components power the Mechanical Timekeeping Machine, including two mainspring barrels enabling a 72 hour power reserve. The power reserve is displayed in the opening of one jet turbine - fashioned like a fuel gauge - and the hours and minutes are displayed in the other.
The straps are removal, enabling one to display the timepiece as a time keeping sculpture in 18k white gold.
The HM4 Only Watch will be Auctioned off on September 22nd, 2011.
Friday, July 8, 2011
A Pheonix Heeds to the Call of Urwek for Only Watch Auction.
The Urwerk 103- Pheonix is Urwerk's powerful addition to the Only Watch Auction, which will be held by Antiquorium this September at the Monaco Yacht Show to raise charity for medical research of Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. Urwek ,as we all know, loves fashioning watches with animals in mind. This time Urwerk ordered the Pheonix, which heeded the call and alighted upon the center of the dial framing it with outstretched wings in protection and hope.
Urwek has chosen a powerful creature to rest upon its dial, a bird, according to Greek Mythology, with colorful feathers and a gold and scarlet tail, the symbol of rebirth, immortality, and renewal. As it as been said, a Pheonix at the end of its long days (500-100 years) sits on its nest, both bird and nest burst into flames and everything is reduced to ashes. It seems that all that was had, has been lost, burnt, nothing but a pile of ashes.... but before long out of the ashes , a tiny bird or egg appears - alive, renewed - destined to live another long long life.
Jean-Vincent Huguenin, engraver and artist, captures the free spirit of the Pheonix beautifully engraving the bird into the 18k white gold case.
The Only Watch Auction held by Antiquorum once every two years in September at the Monaco Yacht Show to raise charity for medical research of Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. What better symbol than the Pheonix.
I applaud Urwerk. They have chosen well.
Thursday, July 7, 2011
Vacheron Constantin Only Watch 2011 Inspired by an Artist

It is wonderful to see the unique creations unveiled for the Only Watch Auction coming this September in Monaco to raise funds for the terribly debilitating muscular dystrophy disease. Companies use this opportunity to go beyond production requirements and consumer demands and create a singular spectacular timepiece which displays the creativeness and exceptional craftsmanship of the company. This piece is part of Vacheron Constantin's Collection which pays tribute to Métiers d'Art. Vacheron Constantin Métiers d'Art Dove Watch. The doves are symbols of hope and love.Vacheron Constantin creates a dial of magnificent splendor combining guillochager, engraving, enameling and gem setting. Vacheron Constantin took inspiration from Maurits Cornelius Escher, a Dutch Engraver (1898-1972) whose engravings often defy the consistencies of depth perception and heuristics.
Vacheron Constantin utilizes a repetitive tiling method known as tessellation. A method whereby a plane is filled with repetitive plain figures, with no gaps or overlaps like a jigsaw puzzle.
5 different methods of decoration was used to complete the dial:
- The Engraving framing each bird is champlevé enameling - French for "raised field or raised plain, is an ancient method of enameling first used in 2 BC whereby grooves are carved into the metal surface - in this case 18k gold- after which the vitreous enamel is filled into the grooves. The enamel is heated melting entirely and filling the grooves. Once the piece has cooled down, the enamel is polished. To create perfection in this art form ,as presented on the dial, requires superior experience and expertise.
- The Red Birds utilize a translucide enameling method. The term "translucide" is derived from translucent - or see-through. The Red birds are in shades of Red creating the illusion of sun beams shining upon a stained glass window.
- Opolescent enameling - is usually white in color. One of the most famous items to use this type of enameling is "The Cross of St. George Egg" crafted by Fabergé's and Presented by Tsar Nicholas II to the Dowager Empress Marie Feodorovna on Easter 1916.
- Hand Guilloché method is used for the gold birds, whereby the guillocher painstakingly engraves the birds into the gold with tiny intricate repetitive patters changing the texture of the gold and thereby forming an image. Often guilloche is done by machine as this technique requires an almost robotic constancy in pattern , extreme, precision, delicacy and closeness of the line and if done by hand is excruciatingly time consuming. However, Vacheron Constantin master guillocher is able to perform guilloche by hand incorporating as much precision as a machine,and adding a uniqueness in craft only achieved by the hand of a human.
- One diamond bird flies among the flock glittering with 40 brilliant cut diamonds of appx 0.08 carat.
Thursday, June 23, 2011
Enchanting Ikepod Hourglass at Only Watch Auction
"Within the dim confines of a mad scientist's underground lab, atop a table crafted from alabaster, a blood red Ikepod hourglass marks the time. As your eyes adjust to the faint flickering light cast by low burning gas lamps, you can just make out that the stuff within the hour glass is not really sand at all. But what is it? What substance is marking the minutes in this dark dusty dungeon? You edge closer, ever so careful not to tread on the strange exotic markings etched onto the floor and glowing a faint green. As you pass the markings, you feel a slight tingle as the hair on your legs stand on end; however, you do not notice, you are transfixed by the hour glass. The hourglass vibrates just a bit, and then ever so slowly turns over. Now you know what black substance flows within the hour glass. Now you know. Within the hour glass black micro balls fall through the tiny constricted space keeping perfect time. The movement of the balls mesmerize you as you notice the curvature of the glass slightly distorts the nano balls within. The gentle rustling enchants you and you must have this magnificent piece of ancient timekeeping. But a certainty hits you like a ton of bricks. There is but one blood red Ikepod hourglass. But one. However, the Ikepod Hourglass is very much for sale at The Only Watch Auction by Antiquorum held at the Monaco Yacht Show this coming September, and if you purchase the Ikepod Hourglass know that the proceeds go to a very good cause. A very good cause indeed. The proceeds go to raise charity for medical research of Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy."Ikepod by Marc Newson, is the only company that sells very high end hourglasses. These hourglasses, exquisitely sculptured from a single tube of borosilicate industrial glass, range in price from $13,000 to $40,000 depending on the size. Marc Newson's creations are available in two sizes. The larger ones are 300mm height, 250mm width, and 9.6 kg in weight and the smaller versions are 150mm in height, 125mm wide and 1.5 kg in weight. The price also depends on the nano balls. Some are made from steel or black colored steel, others in copper and still others in gold. The hour glasses containing the gold nano balls are only available in very select locations. The Ikepod hourglasses are wonderful examples of functional art measuring time one hour at a time (larger version) or 10 minutes at a time (smaller version).
A Touch of Hourglass History
The use off hourglasses was first mentioned in the 14th century, used in work shops to determine if sufficient time had past in tempering metal, and then later as "sand glasses" on naval ships to measure 30 minute increments of time. This "hour glass was known as a "watch glass". In the following centuries hour glasses were used to measure speed of sea vessels. A log was tied to a rope. The rope was knotted at regular intervals of about 47 feet (14.3 meters) long . Once the log was thrown overboard, the rope attached to the stern rail did not move much while its attached log line trailed out from the moving ship. After 28 seconds, the amount of knots that had passed overboard was counted. The number of knots that ran out in 28 seconds was more or less the speed of the ship in nautical miles per hour. An hourglass was used to measure the seconds that passed. The term "knots" is still used as the speed measurement of nautical miles. Knots now refers to one nautical mile an hour or 1.15 miles on land. Today hour glasses are used in board games such as Pictionary or boggle, or in the kitchen as "egg timers" or as exquisite artistic functional creations by Ikepod.
Thursday, June 16, 2011
Bell & Ross Takes a Gamble for Monaco for the 2011 Only Watch Auction
Bell & Ross pays tribute to Monaco, the site of the Only Watch Auction held by Antiquorum once every two years in September at the Monaco Yacht Show to raise charity for medical research of Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy.34 major watch brands are participating in this worthy cause. In order for a watch to partake in this auction it must be either the first watch of a limited edition, or a completely unique model. Watch brands go to great lengths to stand out, and the result is pure salivating eye candy to watch aficionados.

Bell & Ross BR 01 Casino Watch is fashioned after a roulette wheel. The model for the Only Watch Auction is crafted in 18k pink gold with alternating bands of black PVD. The Roulette Wheel Dial is the perfect arena to apply Bell & Ross Radar watch display, which consists of three moving discs displaying the hours, minutes and seconds. The watch case is based on Bell & Ross' signature BR01 models.
Although the 18k pink gold and black PVD is Bell & Ross watch of choice for the Auction, I like its more similar rendition of the roulette table all decked out in the traditional red, green, white and black colorations. Now seeing that you may want this watch to display the time, rather than beat the odds, one must know how time is told on this roulette wheel. The "0" travels around the watch in an analogous manner displaying the time and the white ball displays the minutes. The seconds looking very much like a roulette wheel central brass are displayed in the middle of the dial. Although the Bell & Ross BR 01 Casino Watch in gold and PVD will be a only watch, the more colorful steel roulette table look alike will be available in exclusive casino venues starting this coming October.
Watch brands participating in this years Only Watch Auction commencing on September 22nd are:
Audemars Piguet, Bell & Ross, Blancpain, Bovet, Breguet, Celsius X VI II, Chanel, Chaumet, Chopard, Corum, De Bethune, DeLaCour, DeWitt, Franck Muller, Frederique Constant, Girard-Perregaux, Harry Winston, Hermes, Hublot, Ikepod, Jaquet Droz, Laurent Ferrier, Louis Vuitton, Maurice Lacroix, MB&F, Montblanc, Patek Philippe, Piaget, Richard Mille, Romain Jerome, Tag Heuer, Ulysse Nardin, Urwerk, Vacheron Constantin, Van Cleef & Arpels, Vulcain, Zenith.
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