Swatch Group Breaks Ties with Tiffany & Co.

Tiffany & Co's unremarkable watch designs failed to impress Swatch Group who eventually gave the company the boot.  In 2007, Swatch Group founded Tiffany & Co. Ltd, which was was responsible for the development, production and distribution of Tiffany & Co. branded Watches; however the resulting collections were bland and unassuming lacking a certain charm and color.  Where was the Tiffany & Co. which created exquisite jewelry designs dripping with gems and swirling with color?  Where was the Tiffany & Co. who created tender dragon fly broaches with elegant wings and tender craftsmanship? Where was the company who supplied magnificent jewelry to renowned New York Vanderbilts and Astors and whose creations are displayed in museums?   It seems Tiffany & Co. Ltd watches were left out of the creative company loop, and all that remained was a kind of apologetic collection of watches.  Tiffany & Co. can go two ways at this stage, either admitting the company is not ready for the extremely competitive and highly critical watch market and close the watch shop or revamp its collections and create unique  timepieces which actually represent Tiffany & Co. quality.

As per the original statement by Swatch Group, see below, both Swatch Group and Tiffany & Co, were highly optimistic about there vision of a long term alliance.  This partnership failed to such an extent that "Swatch Group and Tiffany Watch Co. LTD will press claims for damages against Tiffany & Co., New York, in compensation for the loss of planned long-term future business."  It seems to me, Swatch Group expected "more" from Tiffany & Co. - A "more" Tiffany & Co did not provide.  Tiffany & Co's watches are not bad watches.  They may suit the taste of some, and the watches would be quite fitting on the sales floors of less prestigious companies, but being Tiffany & Co. (established in 1837), the watches do not live up to the brand.  If their watch brand means to excel, I think they should look to Louis Vuitton,  Harry Winston, Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels - companies which have made waves in the world of watches.

Original Statement at Partnership Commencement:

In December 2007 Swatch Group and Tiffany & Co. announced a strategic alliance to further the development, production and worldwide distribution of Tiffany & Co. brand watches. Under the agreement, the new watch company, known as Tiffany Watch Co. Ltd and wholly owned by Swatch Group, will design and manufacture in Switzerland a complete range of high-end luxury watches.
The enormous prestige of the Tiffany & Co. brand and the Swatch Group’s watchmaking expertise and experience in the luxury segment form a powerful platform on which to build one of the world’s top luxury watchmakers.
Tiffany Watch Co. Ltd is a Swiss company. Its products are designed and manufactured in Switzerland and distributed selectively through Swatch Group and Tiffany & Co. retail distribution networks, including monobrand Tiffany & Co. watch boutiques in certain markets outside the United States. (Source:  Swatch Group. com)

De Bethune Only Watch 2011 Sensual Celestial Charm

De Bethune Only Watch seems as though it is a porthole to the heavens.  Unparalleled watch making expertise accompanied by exquisite renditions of a star filled sky make the DB25 a truly unique display of time.  The exact placement of the stars depicted on the dial are in the very same position as the night in Monaco of January 8th, 1297.  The very night Francois Grimaldi, Genoese leader of the  Guelphs, dressed as a Franciscan monk,  captured the rock.  De Bethune's Orion and Gemini Constellations are 14 invisibly set white diamonds, while 91 surrounding stars are touches of applied white gold upon a memorizing flame-blued titanium dial providing a sense of the incredible infinite expansiveness of the universe.
 Looking at the 6'o'clock position, one notices an aperture displaying a solid silver sandblasted hour and minute discs with Roman Hours and Arabic minute discs or wandering hours.  The use of silver as well as the use of both Arabic and Roman Numerals adds a subtle sense of mystery to the timepiece.
The elegant 44mm 18k white gold three body round drum case protects a  precise Cal. DB2105S comprising of a twin self -regulating barrel and a De Bethune silicon-platinum annular balance; main plate and bridges in beveled and hand-polished steel; balance spring with flat terminal curve. In addition, the watch is equipped with no less than 29 jewels, which ensure smooth seamless transfer of operations. The incredible movement is visible via a scratch resistant Sapphire crystal case back. Large hollowed lugs secure an alligator strap which fastens with an 18k white gold signature De Bethune buckle.
If you out bid the competition in the Only Watch Auction, which will be held by Antiquorium in Monaco at the end of this month to raise funds and awareness for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy, you will receive this watch in a fitted box accompanied by a Certificate.  Wish price EUR 100,000 - 150, 000 (source  Antiquorium)
De Bethune was established in 2002 by David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet,  with the vision of upholding the watchmaking tradition.  Crafting mechanical timepieces with the aid of cutting edge technological advancements and longstanding watch making craftsmanship, De Bethune has succeeded in making a name among watch aficionados and acquiring 9 patent registrations, 11 in-house calibres validated by intense research. De Bethune has not only succeeded in crafting a timepiece with perfect precision and exceptional craftsmanship, but has created a piece of remarkable beauty and grace.

Jaeger Le-Coultre Raises Funds for Heart Center in Sudan

At the 68th Venice International Film Festival running from August 31st to September 10th, 2011, JaegerLeCoultre ,who has been sponsoring the festival for the last seven years and supplying Jaeger- LeCoulture finest glamor to the stars, has decided to use this opportunity to support a worthy cause.  On September 1st, on the 2nd night of the festival Jaeger-LeCoultre held an exclusive event: "Reverso for Emergency, Jaeger-LeCoultre Helps the Salam Center".

Just as there are ten glittering nights of the 68th Venice International Film Festival, Jaeger-LeCoultre ,with support of celebrities, will finance ten operations at the Salam Center.  The Salam Center was established in 2007 by Emergency Association in Khartoum, Sudan and specializes in children and adults suffering from heart disease.  The center provides these procedures free of charge to patients who otherwise would have no means of paying for their medical treatment. 

In honor of this worthy cause, Jaeger-LeCoultre unveiled a Reverso featuring a red heart as if drawn by the hand of a happy child. The Reverso design is turning 80 this year.  First developed in 1931 at the fervent request of British Officers in India who enjoyed a hearty game of polo but feared damage to the crystal of their timepiece.

As the story is told:

Cesar de Trey, an influential businessman, who was a close associate of Jacques-David LeCoultre visited friends in India.
A polo player approached him, "Sir, I challenge you to create a timepiece that can survive a game of polo with its crystal intact."

This challenge founded the legend of the Reverso. A Patent for Reverso was filed on March 4, 1931: A watch capable of sliding in its base and of turning completely on its axis to turn the crystal inward.

Corum Admiral Cup Seafender 47 Tourbillon GMT

Corum combines supreme elegance & intriguing complications in its latest edition to the iconic Admiral Cup Collection.   This model is quite a far cry from previous Admiral Cup models featuring loud and brightly colored nautical flags emblazoned beneath the bezel.  Keeping with the Admiral Cup tradition, nautical flags are featured beneath the bezel; however quite a bit more discrete.  This down playing of the nautical flags seems to be the newer Admiral Cup trend, perhaps because the actual Admiral Cup international sailing regatta has been a no show for almost a decade.  All due respect to Corum, this is one of the finest Admiral Cup Timepieces I have ever seen.  The iconic twelve sided of the bezel has been softened slightly and crafted from glowing rose gold.  The 47mm dial is spacious sporting an exquisite tourbillon complication and a dual time zone.  The key of Corum is incorporated in the tourbillon movement and seems to unlock time with the rotation of the tourbillon within the signature key cage. The diagonal lines across the dial provide the perception of space on a dial which otherwise may seem cluttered.
Since this is a nautical timepiece, a second time zone is a critical especially if one is traveling across longitudes.  A handy pusher at the 4 'o' clock sets the second time zone, which is visible on a sub dial at the 6 'o'clock position, and just in case one is holed in the bowels of a ship, a day night indicator provides clues to the outside. At the 3 'o' clock position, the day of the month is perfectly placed.
Some say the see through case back is as alluring as the dial, since an exceptional large Corum caliber  CO397 automatic movement is entirely visible via a scratch resistant sapphire crystal treated with an anti-reflective coating.
A power reserve of 50 hours ensures the watch remains ticking off the wrist for at least 50 hours.  The timepiece is water resistant to 50 meters thanks to gaskets and a screw in case back, however 50 meters does limits its uses around too much water; however for $70,000 I would be quite careful where and when I wear the watch.
This watch is also available in aluminum for $47,000 in a  truly handsome  matt black.

Artya Creates "Son of a Gun" for Ultimate Watch Protection Action

Watch companies go to unrepresented lengths to provide watches with ultimate protection, such as utilizing scratch resistant sapphire crystal to protect the dial, using materials such as titanium & forged steel to provide the ultimate resilience and corrosion resistance, using gaskets and screw-in case back to provide water resistance, crafting tourbillons to protect the watch from forces of gravity and utilizing alloy components and cages crafted from highly conductive materials to protect the watch movement from magnetic field.

However Artya has decided on more direct  approach to watch protection with the "Son of a Gun" timepiece.  Weapon enthusiasts will undoubtedly find this watch shooting to the top of their "must have" list.  Merging weapons and horology is a unique idea, although not so far removed as to make the entire concept astounding, after all shooting and hitting a target is all about precision and perfect timing.
  The watch bezel and dial  resemble a target with carved notches at the 12, 9, 6 and 3 'o' clock position. The dial is comprised of six 6mm bullets, which the designer connected using copper wire in a dynamite formation with more copper wire running along the skeletonized ultra sharp watch hands.  My suggestion - don't try bring this watch on a plane- you might have some explaining to do.
The dial of the "Son of a Gun" is protected by high quality sapphire crystal with a water resistance of 50 meters. A sapphire crystal case back reveals the rotor balanced by the backs of 38 mm bullets. I got to say this is one cool watch. 
If you want a unique timepiece you've always got Artya.

Concord C2 Chronograph. Concord's Coolest Collection Yet.

Concord, owned by Movado Group, has finally found the balance between over-the-top futuristic watches and plain boring outdated watches with its brand new new C2 collection.  Don't get me wrong, I think Concord Delirium's, Saratoga's and La Scala's  definitely had a place in the 20th century, but style's change and the world moves on.  On the flip side I think the C1 models ,such as the highly publicized Concord C1 QuantumGravity Tourbillon Watch (see inset left below), born from the new improved Concord Company was a daring adventurous leap from the super slim seriously elegant Deliriums and such. The C1's are bold rugged powerful timepieces built to impress; however, due to the large merging sub dials, the dial seems a bit cluttered and difficult to read.

C1 QuantumGravity Tourbillon

  However looking at the C2, I feel the C2 is definitely a leap in the right direction. Concord has softened the C2 making the lines slightly more fluid and shrinking the sub dials, thus increasing the readability of the dial while maintaining the bold presence of the timepiece without being too overbearing.  The use of a matt black finish adds an elegant simplicity while exuding a sense of powerful resilience.  The entire look of the 43 mm black PVD-treated stainless steel watch whispers unhindered speed and powerful precision.  An ETA 2894-2 automatic mechanical movement powers the watch.  An alluring  red-accented black vulcanized rubber strap promises extreme comfort as it is attached directly to the watch case without the use of lugs or pins.  A folding clasp crafted from black PVD-treated stainless steel securely fastens the Concord C2 to the wrist.  In addition C2 is proudly emblazoned on the case back in no uncertain terms.

Concord has balanced this watch very well. I have a feeling the C2 Chronograph will do very well. Looking forward to see this watch on the market costing $6,500 for the black PVD case and a bit under $6,000 for the stainless steel case. This watch is less expensive than its forerunner - the C1 Collection.

Hublot Oceanographic 4000 for Only Watch 2011

Back in April I blogged about Hublot's Diver watch, which could accompany a diver down 4000m - if a diver could in fact dive to that depth.   In reality a diver cannot . Hublot made this watch as a symbolic gesture to push the limits of rationality and endurance.  One thing is for certain, if the Hublot Oceanographic watch is unwittingly dropped over the side of a ship, it will merrily keep on ticking ,surrounded by inquisitive fish, on the ocean floor since the Hublot Oceanographic can endure the pressure and resist water at a depth of 4000m.   Hublot spent 18 months of intense research and development to create a watch with this type of water resistance and pressure endurance.
The model depicted above is based on the original Diver's Watch and is Hublot's contribution to the Only Watch Auction 2011, to raise charity for the awareness and research of Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy.
For a watch to be presented by a company for the Only Watch Auction it must be either the first watch of a limited edition, or a completely unique model.

Hublot's Oceanographic 4000 timepiece is unique in that it is the very first watch crafted from ultra-technical carbon fiber. The watches colors - bright red with white accents- represent the colors of Monaco's flag. The signature "King Power" 48mm case and bezel is crafted from an attractive and powerful Matt Carbon Fiber.  The Matt Black dial sports bold red  indexes treated with white SuperLuminova, which enables clear dial readout in murky or dark conditions. The dial is protected by Scratch Resistant Sapphire crystal. The watch is powered with precision by HUB1401 automatic movement comprised of 180 components and 23 jewels with a 42 hour power reserve.  The red stitched alligator strap on black rubber accentuates the red on the dial and is affixed to the wrist via a black PVD titanium ardillon buckle. bright red strap complements the red on the