Girard-Perregaux and The Quartz Scare

This newspaper advertisement from the Winnipeg Free Press, November 27th, 1972 and others like it almost brought the world of mechanical watch making to its knees. A Watch only less accurate than the sun itself is quite a statement. While reading this 40 year old article, I can sense the shudder that pervaded the Mechanical Watch World in the early 1970's when Quartz watches flooded the market, relatively cheaper and more accurate than their mechanical counterparts.

Girard-Perregaux Calibre 351 (1970's)

This thought was very much the same of many companies that became redundant due to modern technologies. Companies that made camera film for camera's, ribbons for typewriters, VHS , gas lanterns and carriages for horses.
The Mechanical Watch World thought their days were numbered, and truth be told the sales of Mechanical Watches plummeted. Less people learned the trade of Mechanical Watch Making as they saw no future in it. Companies like Blancpain became dormant shutting their doors and vowing emphatically never to produce a watch powered by quartz (To this day they still have not).
Other companies like Girard-Perregaux were not as gloomy, but on the contrary grabbed the Quartz Revolution by the horns, revamping its Research Development Department and becoming a major player in the Quartz Revolution.  In the early 1970's, the Girard-Perregaux Calibre 351, unveiled in 1969, was  mass produced and widely available.  It was relatively expensive, but the novelty of a watch, which required no winding and was only less accurate then the sun itself, boosted sales.

Girard-Perregaux Laureato (2010)

Today  Girard-Perreagux holds much pride in its Quartz Accomplishment. In January 2010,  the Girard-Perreaguax Laurateo (cost - $11,500) housing a GP 13500 quartz movement commemorated its 40 years in the quartz industry and the successful establishment of the quartz crystal's frequency of 32.768 hertz - a specification standard to all quartz calibers  today.
In fact Girard-Perregaux holds its quartz accomplishments in as great esteem as its iconic three gold bridges movement crafted over 100 years prior.  This year at the SIHH 2012, Girard-Perregaux joined these iconic milestones, separated by over 100 years, into a symbolic timepiece - the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Tourbillon with 3 spinal blue bridges.  The Original Girard- Perregaux Triple Gold Bridges was patented in March 1884, but developed in the 1860's.

Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon 3 Bridges (2012)

 The newest Laureauto Tourbillon is limited to 10 pieces and houses a automatic mechanical Girard-Perregaux 9600-0004 movement, within a 42.6 mm titanium case.  An octagonal platinum bezel add  bright bands of luster achieved by alternating  brushed and polished finishes accentuating the translucent blue of the clear spinal bridges. Spinals , a precious gem from the Corundum family, is the perfect material to use since the gem  requires very little treatment as  in nature they are flawless and transparent.   The clarity of the stone is a blue hued window to a tourbillon suspended beneath the bridge above the 6'o'clock position as well as mechanical components beneath the other bridges.  The transparent case back reveals the excellent mechanics in motion.  A rugged titanium bracelet fastened the timepiece securely to ones wrist.

So it seems that as a result of the inexpensiveness, accuracy, and sheer numbers of Quartz Watches available, Mechanical Watches would vanish from the modern world. It seemed The Mechanical Watch World was on the brink of extinction ,when the novelty of the Quartz watches began to fade, and slowly Mechanical Watches made a come back. Mechanical Watches now filled a different role of times past. Mechanical Watches filled the role of class, quality and centuries old tradition. True they are less effected by adverse temperatures, and can last longer if maintained , but it is not a competition between the two that can be tabulated. The two types of watches are very different, and it is in their difference that each will attain their place in the Watch World. Gerard-Perregaux found a place for Mechanical and Quartz Watches to exist in a harmonious balance. Excepting both and detracting from none. 

What is The Time on My Haldimann Reduction H9?

I must say I wrote this blog with a smile on my face for a watch maker with guts and gall. 
If someone would ask me, "What watch has a movement, but tells no time?"  I would say it would have to be the Haldimann Reduction H9 watch.   Looking at the watch with its opaque scratch resistant sapphire crystal - to protect the "un-dial" perhaps - one may assume there is nothing beyond its blackened void, but bringing the un-watch up to ones ear and hearing the gentle ticking emanating from the case, assures us that there is more than meets the eye. The manually wound movement is actually a really nice functional  hand engraved caliber H.Zen-1 sporting a triple barrel flying tourbillon  The movement is of magnificent craftsmanship with no purpose. 

About 2 years ago I did stick up for the Haldimann H8 praising the lone tourbillon's wondrous sculpture in motion - see here, but the new H9 leaves me wondering of the actual purpose of the platinum encased timepiece. The company uses a kind of philosophical stance to its creation saying "time can thus be imagined, dreamed, or invented."  The quote is wide open to opinion.


 But back to the practicality of the un-timepiece -

"How does one read this watch?"  Well you don't - as I have explained it is an un-watch. So what exactly is its function?  Hmm - It is a conversation piece - which can make you look pretty stupid when you glance at it and say, "Oh No its late - I'd better be going."

For 150,000 francs one purchases a 39mm or 42mm solid platinum case surrounding an exceptional caliber H.Zen-1 with triple barrel flying tourbillon shrouded in a completely opaque sapphire crystal.  

Roses are Red and Watches Are Too. Happy Valentines Day

Harry Winston Diane

MB & F and Boucheron HM3 The Jwlry Machine Watch 2010

Hublot Tutti Frutti St. Valentine Edition 2011

Louis Vuitton Heart Watch Valentines Day 2011

Hublot Big Bang Valentines Day 2010

Jacob & Co Rainbow Tourbillon 2010

Dior Christal Red Rubber Chronograph 2010

The Man Who Started the Wristwatch Trend

Albert Santos-Dumont had the vision to fly, and was one of the early pioneers of flying. He was a celebrity of his time, flying amidst the wondrous upturned faces of the public. They wanted to be like him to dress like him, he was their icon, their superstar, and anything he wore was replicated by thousands... and so the wristwatch became popular.

Santos-Dumont was born on July 20th, 1873, in the Brazilian town of Palmira, the sixth of eight children. His father was French, an engineer and he owned a coffee plantation in the state of Sao Paulo. His father was known as the " Coffee King of Brazil" as he made a large fortune utilizing latest labor saving inventions of that time.

Santos-Dumont ,as a young child, looked up into the brilliant expansive view of the Brazilian sky and dreamed of flying. His father sustained an injury by falling from a horse and moved the family to Europe. Santos-Dumont who had always been fascinated with machinery bought himself an automobile and later studied physics. chemistry, mechanics and electricity.
Still his dream of flying persisted and he hired an experienced balloon pilot to take him on as a passenger, then he piloted the balloons himself, and then flew dirigible balloons (many people are more familiar with the German Zeppelin like that which docked atop the Empire State Building).
Santos-Dumont built and flew 11 dirigibles from 1898 and 1905. He would cruise along Paris boulevards at rooftop level, landing outside outdoor cafes for lunch.

He won the Deutsch de la Meurthe Prize by flying his "lighter than air"aircraft from Parc Saint Cloud to the Eiffel Tower in less than thirty minutes, but it was the "heavier than air aircraft" that gained most of his attention. He flew an airplane he built, the 14-bis, on October 23, 1906, in front of a crowd of rapt spectators, 200 feet at a height of 10 feet above the ground. He was awarded the Archedeacon Prize in July 1906 as he was first aviator to fly more than 25 meters.

In 1904 while Santos-Dumont was celebrating his win of the Deutsch Price at the Maxim's Restaurant in Paris, he complained to his old friend ,Louis Cartier, about the difficulty of checking his pocket watch while trying to handle the controls of his aircraft. Santos-Dumont asked Louis Cartier to come up with a different way of checking the time whilst keeping both hands on the control. Louis Cartier and his master watchmaker ,Edmond Jaeger, brainstormed, and soon came up with the first prototype for a man's wristwatch. It was a watch on a leather strap with a buckle to be tied around the wrist. This was not the first time a wristwatch was invented, Patek Phillipe had created a wristwatch in 1868 for the Countess Koscowicz of Hungary, but Patek Phillipe creation was more of a style statement than the need for practicality.

After Santos-Dumont was presented with his wristwatch, he never flew without it, and it was with the Cartier wristwatch that Santos-Dumont, on November 12, 1906, used to confirm that he had broken his own personal record for flying 730 ft in twenty one seconds.

Santos-Dumont was nicknamed "le petit Santos" and the stylish of that time copied Santos-Dumont wardrobe from his high collared shirts to his singed Panama hat to his Cartier man's wristwatch. Santos-Dumont was indeed a trend setter, men are still very much wrist watch wearers; although they have done away with their high collared shirts and singed Panama hats.



To honor Santos Dumont, Cartier has an entire Collection of wristwatches called Santos de Cartier. This collection includes Santos 100, Santos Dumont, and Santos Demoiselle for ladies. The striking square case provides a sense of complete equilibrium as well as practicality.

Top Ten Valentine's Day Watches

Top Ten Valentines Day Luxury Watches.  See if you agree.

 1) A Chopard Happy Heart Valentine's Special Edition 2012 Watch

Limited Edition: 500 pieces.

36 mm Stainless steel case and bezel surrounds a smoky mother-of-pearl dial beneath three gem encrusted  hearts - one diamond and two pink sapphires which float between two thin sheets of sapphire crystal providing the illusion of floating hearts. Quartz movement; water resistance to 100 feet (wouldn't suggest getting this baby wet on account of the silk purple satin strap) and all around a darling timepiece bound to sweep her off her feet.  Cost: Under $10,000 - but not much - due to its limited nature and collectors potential.

 2) Blancpain Saint-Valentin 2012 Flyback Chronograph - Limited Edition - 14 pieces.  Price: TBD

Announce your love with all your heart, your soul and your savings.  Give your loved one the most gorgeous Valentines Day Watch.  A watch ,like your cherished sweetheart, which is as beautiful on the inside as the outside. For the record - Blancpain has never ever made a quartz watch. Upon opening  the wooden box with joyous disbelief shining in her eyes, she will notice the bright red heart counterbalance - as women are emotional beings.  Then her eyes will stray to  the diamond encrusted bezel and diamond indices - 2.95 carats in all ... then the intriguing mother-of-pearl dial baring three mother-of-pearl hearts - a testament to unparalleled marquetry.

In amazed silence, she turns the watch over and gasps at the mechanical mastery resting on the palm of her upturned hand.  She may not know it just yet, but what she is gazing at, is the Saint-Valentin 2012 Flyback Chronograph calibre F185 with 37 jewels, and  an oscillating weight dressed in bands pink mother of pearl bands. Not knowing about automatic watches, she slowly comes to realize that this watch requires no batteries, but all its energy is gleaned from the gentle swinging motion of her arm.  A long while later, she will inquire about the sub dials... and you will explain to her how the chronograph and fly back function is controlled by  two push pieces, capped with cabochon-cut rubies at the 2 o’clock and 4 o’clock respectively; the date is at the 12 'o'clock position, the seconds subdial at the 6 'o'clock.  The long hand topped by a slim red feather, is the chronograph central sweep seconds hand and totalizers at the 3 and night 'o'clock counts off elapsed minutes and hours. As you fasten the soft white alligator leather strap to her wrist, and watch the diamonds twinkle in the candlelight you know this is your Valentine.

 3)Piaget Limelight Love Letter Secret Watch

Price:  $189,750.00

 If diamonds are a girls best friend then this timepiece is sure to win hearts. A 18k white gold strap is smothered beneath no less thank 1286 diamonds (appx 20.3 ct) The all encompassing bezel shaped like a letter holds 314 diamonds accentuated with the color of love - one deep red Cabochon ruby. Opening the letter, the time will be revealed on a mother of pearl dial set with an additional 12 diamonds. The movement is Quartz ( no comment). This watch is a grand example of haute joaillerie where timepieces and jewelry merge in seamless unison.

4) House of Graff: Lady Graff.

Limited Edition: 20 pieces

Price: Unknown but high six figures.

(2012)

LadyGraff sweeps into the ballroom in sparkling puffs of 109 (42.10 carats) delicately layered diamonds.  House of Graff has entered the room and all eyes are on the height of haute joaillerie timepieces.  The diamonds are securely set in full glory their brilliant clarity visible from the underside of the bracelet as well. Beneath a dial paved in 61 diamonds a Swiss quartz movement marks  the time. 

The London based House of Graff is one of the most prestigious diamond and gem suppliers in all the world and has first choice to the finest diamonds . 

5.) Van Cleef &Arpels Poetic Wish Watch Pair - Unveiled SIHH 2012

The dials of Van Cleef & Arpels are vivid depictions of romance. The latest pair are set in paris, one by day and one by night. By day a young women stands upon the Eifel tower searching for her love.  Her love is waiting for her - wishing upon a star for her return as he stands upon the Notre-Dame Cathedral, gazing at the Eiffel Tower where she stands.  The 39mm Women's Poetic Wish Timepiece is smaller in frame than the Men's 43mm case.  Designed by Jean-Marc Wiedderecht, both watches are equipped with a five minute repeater and automatons.  When a crown at the 2 'o'clock is activated, the hours begin to chime setting the young lady across the girders of the Eifel tower towards her love waiting at the Notre Dame. A mother-of-pearl cloud moves towards her and the place at which they they meet indicates the hour on the horizontal scale. As the minutes chime, a kite flies up the River Seine indicating the five minutes. When all is done and the chiming ceases the automatons return to their original positions. The chiming and movement is but a moment in time to make a wish. Her lover is standing upon the terrace of the Notre Dame and when his hour of wishing arrives, he paces towards the cloud meeting at the hour.  His minutes are marked by a shooting star heading towards the Eiffel tower to the place of his heart. Van Cleef & Arpels in the Master of Romantic Depictions. The enameling on the watch is superb, and the movement including the gongs and hammers visible via a sound amplifying raised sapphire crystal case back. The 458 component hand wound movement is capable of a 60 hour power reserve.

6) Roger Dubuis Valentines Day Watch (circa 2011) -

Limited Edition: 28 Cost: 6 figures ????

watch is the epitome of technical elegance incorporating the Valentine motif into the actual components of the in-house movement. Two synthetic heart shaped pink Sapphire crystals accentuate the shapes while a tourbillon of uncanny craftsmanship flutter beneath a skeletonized rose.  I love the fact that Roger Dubuis has focused on mechanical technicalities for a woman's watch.  The majority of woman's watches nowadays are powered by quartz movement, which I feel a bit of a let down.  Diamonds smother the 18k white gold 36mm square case. Beneath the bezel a flange indicates the hours a ruby at a time... and the red satin strap adds an evocative innuendo to the rest of the watch.

7) The Frédérique Constant Love Heart Beat Watch. (circa 2009) Price: Around $2,000.00

Even though these two beauties were unveiled 3 years ago (a lifetime in watch models), I think about them every time Valentine's Day draws near.  I think these watches affirm love in shimmering elegance without appearing too gaudy and sickly sweet.  The Frédérique Constant Heart Beat Collection is iconic for an aperture in the dial revealing the escapement of the in-house FC 310 calibre  movement.  The aperture in this case is the diamond encrusted "O".  The dial is blanketed with guilloche engraving with heart shapes framed by a magnificent bezel set with 64 diamonds. The watch is available in steel or rose gold plated case. A satin strap completes the look.  The great thing about this watch is that it is really affordable.  You can pick one up on Ebay for less than $2,000.00.

8) The Swatch Love Collection 2012 is perfect for your first love. Limited Edition : 777 

Price: $60 for one $110 for both

The red Swatch is "My Heart" - inscribed with the passionate scrawl of "Only You".  The depiction almost screams "puppy love" - a white figure emerging from the heart of a rose.  I can so picture the watch being presented with a blush and uncertain glances - the terror of being rejected and the irrevocable need to proclaim love.

The "Lovely Mine"  Swatch is so irresistibly cute - I can almost pinch its 33mm round plastic case.  "I Love You"  is printed boldly below a dial featuring a our white figure now dressed in a rabbit costume - a little naughty perhaps.  In any event these watches are so cute and true Swatch Collectors Items.  Manufactured specially for Valentine 2012, in a limited quantity of 777, which raises my eyebrows as to why that particular, if not telling number was used.  These cute watch are sold as a pair or alone. 

 9) Jaeger-Lecoultre Valentine's Day Reverso. (2012) 

Since 1931, the Reverso popularity has never wavered.  Set in the ultra Reverso Case, the Valentine's Day Model is an attractive elegant combination of pink gold and steel with a whimsical depiction of a heart engraved on the reverse side of the case.  In a unique move, Jaeger Lecoultre teamed up with Valextra,  high end Italian Luxury Bag Manufacturers, to create a strap of exceptional quality and trendy style.  The product of their partnership is a high quality attractive double tour strap available in three colors, creating an admirable fashion statement.  

 

10) DeLaneau's Delicate Collection.  Heart Shape Watch. 

Limited Edition: 20 pieces - including the round, diamond, flower or heart shaped models in this unique piece collection.

DeLaneau knows how to please the ladies with the distinctly  feminine timepiece. The DeLaneau case is a true classical depiction of a heart.  The 18k heart shaped wrist watch is outlined in pink sapphires crowned surrounding a diamond paved dial.   18K white gold bracelet is decorated with 19 heart-cut pink sapphires and 40 navette-cut diamonds. Beneath the heart beats a Frederic Piguet caliber 6.10 manual wound mechanical movement. The lack of a seconds hand creates a quiet presence in which time seems to stop in the face of beauty.

HAPPY VALENTINES DAY!

Urwerk UR-110 in Red Gold

Urwerk UR-110's less than traditional dial is donning a fine suit of Red Gold - actually a screw on bezel. After all what is a collection without a choice of red gold.

  Previously Urwek UR-110 models have been firmly set in titanium known for its resilience, light weight and strength.  I think the red gold accentuates the brigh indices quite nicely creating a softer look. Three Urwerk signature satellite hour " "torpedoes" baring four numbers revolve and  orbit around an axis to indicate the time on a retrograde minute scale. The model housed in a technical titanium case won “Best Design Watch” from the 2011 Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie.

Co-founders of Urwek, Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei feel that a collection is not complete without a model in gold.  Gold is  the traditional watch case material. All Urweks previous collections are accompanied by a gold model.  As for the new timekeeping gadget, the rather mysterious - Zeit Device - will that come in gold too?
Urwek has not omitted titanium entirely, on the contrary the 51mm x 47mm x 16mm case of the UR-110 is crafted in grade 5 titanium  and the bezel is in red gold.  The watch is powered by an in house UR9.01 automatic movement with a 39 hour power reserve. In addition to the highly complex dial mechanism,  a small seconds sub dial, a day/night indicator and a highly unusual oil change service interval indicator is visible.

Azimuth Gauge Mecha - 1BF

The Azimuth Guage Mecha - 1BF evokes a nostalgia for those solid electronic toys of the eighties, which were big, bulky and colorful.  Those toys could handle a bash or two and did not break from the slightest manhandling.  The Azimuth we have here is crafted from the increasingly popular  super tough 316L stainless steel and like those old toys is solid as they come.  The Azimuth Signature case houses a highly reliable Self-Winding ETA 2836-2.  ETA movements are known as the "workhorses" of the watch industry and have a long standing record of time keeping efficiency.  The ETA 2836-2 has been reconstructed to display the hours on the disc; retrograde minutes beneath the BMF inscription and a  24 hours indicator.  The strap is rubber and the watch has a 5ATM water resistance.

I love the fact that Azimuth is not afraid to experiment with color.