In The Tick of Time

Tuesday, February 21, 2012

Frank Muller's Largest Tourbillon Now in the Midst of Dazzling Diamonds

Frank Muller Giga Tourbillon Paved in Diomands

It seems quite fitting for the largest tourbillon ever to be incorporated into a wristwatch be surrounded by diamonds. These dazzling Giga Tourbillons were unveiled last month at the 2012 World Presentation of Haute Horlogerie (WPHH).
The Giga Tourbillon Collection was first introduced in 2011. The tourbillon, on these watches, commands half the space on the dial and measures a whopping 20mm in diameter. I first blogged Frank Muller's Tourbillon Collection back in 2011.
This new glamorous 18K white cold Cintrée CurvexTM”-shaped Giga Tourbillon case is paved with 474 diamonds amounting to 9.57 cts. 280 White diamonds upon the dial surround the tourbillon like a cloud.
The tourbillon itself is a feat of engineering conjoined to a manual wound FM 2100 caliber movement capable of a 10 day power reserve. This type of technique enabling this amount of power reserve for such a large watch mechanism is quite rare and virtually unheard of beyond the beautiful grounds of Frank Muller's Watchland. The Giga Tourbillon is actually fitted with two pairs of spring boxes, both 16mm in diameter. Most tourbillon's are fitted with only one or two.

In order not to mask the immense tourbillon on either side of the watch case, the watch is not fitted with a rotor, but rather wound at the crown. The movement is equipped with four barrels beating at a frequency of 18,000 vph and comprises of 29 jewels and 240 components. Hand chamfering and circular graining adds to the impeccable finishing of the movement.

This watch is part of a host of other Giga Tourbillon diamond studded models housing a 693 diamond studded movement on bridge and plate. The watch is available in white gold, pink gold or PVD covered in black diamonds.

Wearing a Giga Tourbillon Watch will sure get you noticed big time.

Monday, February 20, 2012

It's a New Moon for Konstantin Chaykin Lunokhod Watch

Russian Watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin was so inspired by the 1970 success of Russian Scientists, who created and landed two unmanned lunar rovers on the moon, he named a collection of watches after the vehicles: Lunokhod.

When I asked, "What so inspired Konstantin Chaykin to use the name Lunokhod?"

He replied, "The main theme that inspired me was the proudness about the russian scientists that make a moon rover."

Not only was it the success of this endeavor that prompted him to use the name Lunokhod, but also its uncanny play on words for a watch of this kind.

As Konstantin Chaykin explained,
"First I create the movement that rotate the 3d Moon in the watch. But its design was close to Moon rover form and I desired to call the watch Lunokhod. In Russian it looks like play of words - Lunok - Moon hod - movement. It seems to me like a good idea."

Embedded in the very center of Russian Watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin's Lunokhod timepiece is the moon represented by a single pearl. The symbolism of moon as pearl is as old as time itself told around crackling fires in faraway lands. An ancient Indian Myth claims pearls are dewdrops from heaven captured by shellfish at dawn in the phase of a full moon. Looking up at the night sky a full moon softly bathing the world in its reflected light, one can imagine it as a large pearl The Lunokhod moon phases are indicated by a shutter, which slides across the pearl darkening its surface.

Surrounding the pearl are hour, minute and seconds retrograde time displays crafted in 18k yellow gold and curved like the indices on an ancient astrolobe. One can almost imagine Ptolomy donned in flowing robes peering at the timepiece and generating complicated astronomical calculations. The slim case is crafted from 18k yellow gold, which adds an ancient elegance to its unique design. The previous Lunokhod was a bit more sinister looking and had a more space age feel to it than the newer all gold model. However the previous model used wootz steel, which is an ancient metal originating in India around 300 BC. So coveted was this metal, it was given as a gift by King Porus ,ruler of an Ancient Civilization, to Alexander the Great. Constantin Chaykin used this material as its texture simulated that of the moon. The moon in the previous model is not a pearl, but rather a textured silver. A black rhodium plated silver hood which represents the moon phase change is probably used in both models.

The hand wound mechanical movement is crafted entirely by Konstantin Chaykin framing the prominent moon phase.

Konstantin Chaykin will release only 12 models of the Lunokhod in gold, priced at 110,000 Euros.
In a world where the art of mechanical watchmaking is increasing in leaps and bounds, Konstantin Chaykin has received quite a bit of notice. His watches exude a strength of character and watchmaking skill only accomplished by the highly talented and exceptionally competent watchmaker.

The next Konstantin Chaykin timepiece to excite the watch world is his enigmatic, "Mystery Watch". Mysterious because the dial hands are suspended in a transparent dial with out any conceivable support. To be unveiled at BaselWorld 2012.
In time my Blog about the Konstantin Chaykin Mystery Watch will reveal itself from its drafting board.

Whatever happened to Swatch Internet Time?

This was supposed to be the next BIG thing in time. Swatch Company had a grand idea, to eliminate time zones altogether, to make the entire world run at according to the same time. New york, London, Moscow, Sydney would all be one time. This is not a new idea, of course, Sanford Flemming, a Scottish born Canadian engineer and inventor suggested a single 24-hour clock for the entire world, located at the center of the Earth and not connected to any surface meridian. It was at a meeting of the Royal Canadian Institute on February 8, 1879 he proposed that standard time zones could be used locally, but they were subordinate to his single world time, which he called Cosmic Time. Although this idea was rejected, his 24 hour clock preposition was excepted with hearty gusto. I suppose Cosmic time was somewhat of a predecessor of Swatch Internet Time. Click here for more information of Time Zones

Almost 120 years later, Swatch Internet Time was promoted om October 23rd, 1998 at a Junior Summit. The Summit was attended by Nicolas G. Hayek, President and CEO of the Swatch Group. IN 1999 many watches were produced by Swatch with Swatch Internet Time as well as the standard time. Swatch even convinced CNN to utilize this method of time display as well as many online games such as Phantasy Star Online. The identical time zones while playing an Internet game would enable Japanese, European and American players to mingle on the same server. In March 2001 Ericsson released the T20e, a cellphone with provided the option for Internet Time Display.

The Swatch Internet Time is based on the decimal measure of time, not the metric. Instead of dividing the day in 24 hours with one hour equalling 60 minutes, the Internet Time divides the day into 1000 .beats. Each .beat is 1 minute and 26.4 seconds. The Internet Time uses a New Meridian known as the Biel Meantime (BMT) which is the universal reference for Internet time based on the company's headquarters in Biel, Switzerland. The new Meridian (opposed to the Greenwich Meridian) runs through Swatch's office in Biel.

A day in Internet Time begins midnight BMT @000 Swatch.beats Central European Winter/Standard time which is UTC + 1 hour. Noon would be @500 .beats.

Advantages of Swatch Internet Time:
1) It uses the Decimal System instead of 24 hours, 60 minutes and 60 seconds which is three different units as opposed to one unit .beats.
2) .beat time is a no brainer @004 beats + @200 .beats = @204 .beat, where as with standard time adding the three units hours, minutes and seconds may get complicated.
3) No time zones.

Disadvantages of Swatch Internet Time:
1) A new Meridian is added, the Biel Meridian which replaces the Greenwich Meridian.
2) Swatch incorrectly uses mean time - The Biel Time is not at exactly 15 degrees east longitude, which should have been the case if the BMT is 1 hour ahead of UTC/GMT (Greenwich Mean Time)
3) The second is replaced by .beats, which is not actually a second. The second is known world over as being the basic unit of time, to add .beats would cause much confusion.
4) The Internet Time seems more like a clever marketing ploy as people will turn to the Swatch Headquarters in Biel when determining the time of day.
5) No regard is made for night or day, and the normal human activities. With utilizing the Swatch Internet system, time distances itself from humanity, turning civilization, slaves to our technology.

Although Swatch is still marketing the Swatch Internet Time on their company website, and one is able to download the time to ones computer, the Swatch Internet Time has failed to take hold. Time is not tangible and to change the way we track time is to change the way we think. The Hour, minute and Second Standard Time System has serves us up till now and will continue to track our time hour by hour, minute by minute and second by second. I suppose in another 100 years another suggestion of universal time may crop up, but it seems the world turning on its axis ,longitude by longitude, creating night and day and dark and light, wins every time.

Thursday, February 16, 2012

The New Longines Saint-Imier Collection

Strolling past the Longines Booth at BaselWorld 2012, one will notice an entirely new collection - The New Longines Saint-Imier Collection. The collection pays homage to its birth place - Saint-Imier situated in a picturesque Canton of Bern in Switzerland. Longines has not moved from Saint-Imier since its establishment in 1832 and now is the predominant factory in this largely agricultural region. The Longines Saint-Imier collection houses exclusively mechanical movements securely connecting this collection to the tradition of watchmaking.

The Collection is quite prolific consisting of no less than 18 models, all exceedingly elegant and efficient. A quick yet intense glance at the Ladies Mechanical Timepiece assures me that the Longines watch will be an instant hit. The mother of pearl dial surrounded by an elegant 60 diamond studded bezel atop a steel case is a classic combination with a subtle sensuality. The varying lengths of pink gold and steel bracelet links surround a wrist in delicate embrace. Beating within compact 26mm case is the Calibre L595 movement crafted from the base ETA 2000/1 movement. Comprising of 20 jewels and beating at 28,800 vph, the automatic timepiece is equipped with a 40 hour power reserve. Superluminova coated pink hour and minute hands ensure optimal readout in the dark, and anti-reflective scratch resistant sapphire crystal ensure optimal read out under the glare of the sun. 12 Diamond hour markers add a glimmer of elegance hour after hour.

Chronograph Movements are all the rage among the ladies where elegance and note-worthy efficiency is highly respected. Mentioning efficiency in regard to this timepiece is of supreme relevance since this 39mm Chronograph is equipped with the L688 column-wheel chronograph movement exclusively developed and produced for Longines by ETA. Since both companies are owned by The Swatch Group Ltd, ETA has taken great lengths to ensure that this exclusive movement is of exceptional quality. The column wheel component increases the timepiece's shock absorbant capability. The Calibre L688.2 self-winding mechanical movement is equipped with 27 jewels and beats at 28,800 vph with 54 hour power reserve.

I always find it most fitting when Longines unveils a chronograph movement, since Longines is highly associated with equestrian sports and the chronograph function was first developed to determine exactly how long a horse race lasted. The Chronograph was actually invented in 1821 by Nicolas Mathieu Rieussec, at the command of horse racing enthusiast King Louis XVIII and patented in 1822, ten years before Auguste Agassiz founded Longines.

The Silver Tone Dial of the Longines Ladies Chronograph elegantly displays the 12 o’clock Arabic numeral marker and 8 applied hour markers. 12-hour, 30-minute and small seconds sub dials are located at the 6, 3 and 9 o’clock respectively. Boldly indicated beneath the 12 'o'clock position is the Longines winged hourglass - The Oldest Valid Trademark in the International Registry - click here for some fascinating information

Longines pride of its collection The Longines Saint-Imier Retrograde Moon Phase Watch is a beauty to behold. Its understated elegance coupled with a bold assertion of mechanical complications exude a potent mix of horological magnificence. The sleek stainless steel 44mm case houses a Calibre L707 (base movement ETA A07.L31) mechanical automatic movement comprised of 25 jewels and beating at a frequency of 4 HZ equipped with a 48 hour power reserve.

This timepiece features a traditional analog time display surrounded on all four sides by retrograde displays. The days of the week are placed just beneath the 12 'o'clock. The date and the second time zone straddle either side of the dial and a retrograde small second indicator is located below the day night indicator. A triple folding safety clasp ensures maximum protection for the flagship model of this collection.

This collection will be on prominent display at Basel World 2012.

Girard-Perregaux and The Quartz Scare

This newspaper advertisement from the Winnipeg Free Press, November 27th, 1972 and others like it almost brought the world of mechanical watch making to its knees. A Watch only less accurate than the sun itself is quite a statement. While reading this 40 year old article, I can sense the shudder that pervaded the Mechanical Watch World in the early 1970's when Quartz watches flooded the market, relatively cheaper and more accurate than their mechanical counterparts.

Girard-Perregaux Calibre 351 (1970's)

This thought was very much the same of many companies that became redundant due to modern technologies. Companies that made camera film for camera's, ribbons for typewriters, VHS , gas lanterns and carriages for horses.
The Mechanical Watch World thought their days were numbered, and truth be told the sales of Mechanical Watches plummeted. Less people learned the trade of Mechanical Watch Making as they saw no future in it. Companies like Blancpain became dormant shutting their doors and vowing emphatically never to produce a watch powered by quartz (To this day they still have not).
Other companies like Girard-Perregaux were not as gloomy, but on the contrary grabbed the Quartz Revolution by the horns, revamping its Research Development Department and becoming a major player in the Quartz Revolution. In the early 1970's, the Girard-Perregaux Calibre 351, unveiled in 1969, was mass produced and widely available. It was relatively expensive, but the novelty of a watch, which required no winding and was only less accurate then the sun itself, boosted sales.

Girard-Perregaux Laureato (2010)

Today Girard-Perreagux holds much pride in its Quartz Accomplishment. In January 2010, the Girard-Perreaguax Laurateo (cost - $11,500) housing a GP 13500 quartz movement commemorated its 40 years in the quartz industry and the successful establishment of the quartz crystal's frequency of 32.768 hertz - a specification standard to all quartz calibers today.
In fact Girard-Perregaux holds its quartz accomplishments in as great esteem as its iconic three gold bridges movement crafted over 100 years prior. This year at the SIHH 2012, Girard-Perregaux joined these iconic milestones, separated by over 100 years, into a symbolic timepiece - the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Tourbillon with 3 spinal blue bridges. The Original Girard- Perregaux Triple Gold Bridges was patented in March 1884, but developed in the 1860's.

Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon 3 Bridges (2012)

The newest Laureauto Tourbillon is limited to 10 pieces and houses a automatic mechanical Girard-Perregaux 9600-0004 movement, within a 42.6 mm titanium case. An octagonal platinum bezel add bright bands of luster achieved by alternating brushed and polished finishes accentuating the translucent blue of the clear spinal bridges. Spinals , a precious gem from the Corundum family, is the perfect material to use since the gem requires very little treatment as in nature they are flawless and transparent. The clarity of the stone is a blue hued window to a tourbillon suspended beneath the bridge above the 6'o'clock position as well as mechanical components beneath the other bridges. The transparent case back reveals the excellent mechanics in motion. A rugged titanium bracelet fastened the timepiece securely to ones wrist.

So it seems that as a result of the inexpensiveness, accuracy, and sheer numbers of Quartz Watches available, Mechanical Watches would vanish from the modern world. It seemed The Mechanical Watch World was on the brink of extinction ,when the novelty of the Quartz watches began to fade, and slowly Mechanical Watches made a come back. Mechanical Watches now filled a different role of times past. Mechanical Watches filled the role of class, quality and centuries old tradition. True they are less effected by adverse temperatures, and can last longer if maintained , but it is not a competition between the two that can be tabulated. The two types of watches are very different, and it is in their difference that each will attain their place in the Watch World. Gerard-Perregaux found a place for Mechanical and Quartz Watches to exist in a harmonious balance. Excepting both and detracting from none.

Wednesday, February 15, 2012

What is The Time on My Haldimann Reduction H9?

I must say I wrote this blog with a smile on my face for a watch maker with guts and gall.
If someone would ask me, "What watch has a movement, but tells no time?" I would say it would have to be the Haldimann Reduction H9 watch. Looking at the watch with its opaque scratch resistant sapphire crystal - to protect the "un-dial" perhaps - one may assume there is nothing beyond its blackened void, but bringing the un-watch up to ones ear and hearing the gentle ticking emanating from the case, assures us that there is more than meets the eye. The manually wound movement is actually a really nice functional hand engraved caliber H.Zen-1 sporting a triple barrel flying tourbillon The movement is of magnificent craftsmanship with no purpose.

About 2 years ago I did stick up for the Haldimann H8 praising the lone tourbillon's wondrous sculpture in motion - see here, but the new H9 leaves me wondering of the actual purpose of the platinum encased timepiece. The company uses a kind of philosophical stance to its creation saying "time can thus be imagined, dreamed, or invented." The quote is wide open to opinion.

But back to the practicality of the un-timepiece -

"How does one read this watch?" Well you don't - as I have explained it is an un-watch. So what exactly is its function? Hmm - It is a conversation piece - which can make you look pretty stupid when you glance at it and say, "Oh No its late - I'd better be going."

For 150,000 francs one purchases a 39mm or 42mm solid platinum case surrounding an exceptional caliber H.Zen-1 with triple barrel flying tourbillon shrouded in a completely opaque sapphire crystal.