Monday, April 28, 2014

10 Watches with a Penchant for Peacocks

What is it they say about Peacocks? Well depending which culture you belong to, they can bring good luck or other luck.  There raucous caw can get kind of grating, but they are beautiful to see when strutting their stuff. The feathers are glorious and have been used as decoration on furniture, paintings, hair accessories and of course watches. In 1963, the peacock was designated the National Bird of India. 


Below I have listed ten watches adorned in peacocks and the different dial decorating techniques used to portray the peacock theme. 

Corum Heritage Artisans Feather Watch - Circa 2014

 Dial Decorating Technique: Individually sorted, cut and glued peacock feathers.



“Into The Wild” Collection by Le Vian- Circa 2011

Dial Decorating Technique: Paved and Raised Gem-Setting. 


Harry Winston Premier Feather Watch - Peacock Feathers - circa 2012

Dial Decorating Technique: Individually sorted, cut and glued peacock feathers.
Corum Peacock Feather Watch - Circa 1970's

Dial Decorating Technique: Cutting and Glueing peacock feather. 

Chopard's Peacock Watch - Circa 2011
Dial Decorating Technique: Japanese "maki-e technique" lacquering technique.  Artist:
Kiichiro Masumura.  Urushi technique - multiple layers of Urushi tree sap is applied to the dial and then sprayed with gold.
DeLaneau XRD Peacock- Circa 2012

 Dial Decorating Technique: Enameling


Boucheron Héra Tourbillon - Circa 2011

Dial Decorating Technique: Girard Perregaux Three Gold Bridges in White Gold surrounded by paraiba tourmalines, sapphire and diamond paving.  Peacock is in white gold set with paraiba tourmalines, sapphire and diamond paving.


Bovet Amadeo-Fleurier 42 Jumping Hours Peacock (Unique Piece)

Dial Decorating Technique:  Hand-painted on mother-of-pearl.

Boucheron Watch Crazy Jungle Peacock - Circa 2010

 Dial Decorating Technique:   White Gold - Champlevé Grand Feu Enamel Dial 



Piaget Altiplano Double Jeu - The Mythical Journey Collection - Circa 2014

 Dial Decorating Technique: Two Cases - Upper Case Dial - Gold engraved peacock set with diamonds. Lower case dial (not depicted) - Piaget signature dazzling white dial with gold hands. 

Saturday, March 29, 2014

Concord RE-Launches the Mariner




Baselworld 2014 marks an  historic milestone for Concord - the reintroduction of the Mariner.  Historic - since it seems Concord has a serious change of heart in regard to its older collections.  When Concord recently relaunched the Saratoga, I thought this sudden nostalgia was a once off deal, but a second relaunch proves Concord has renewed faith in its past.  Although the C1's , 2s  and Clabs are still quite hot, a brand of this size comprised entirely of one idea has limitations. The C hype has faded.  Its been five years ago since the Baselworld 2009 release of the QuantumGravity Tourbillon. An entire company - HYT - started by former Concord CEO Vincent Perriard - was built on its hydro mechanical concept.  

 Even though I blogged quite a bit about the C models - I could not fathom how a company could throw away all its previous and well loved collections.  I was terribly sad to see the production of Deliriums and La Scalas stopped.  La Scala is actually one of my favorite Ladies Watch.  The Delirium's and La Scala's ,still available on Ebay and on quite a few watch sites, have not lost their place in the watch world.  I personally think there is a definite market for new models of  old collections.
It seems Movado Group. owned Concord has finally realized that the C collections ,no matter how cutting edge and cool, is not enough for Concord.

 Of course the newer models of old collections are modernized.  In the words of Concord..
"This Iconic Collection has been updated to reflect a modern and beautiful sense of style"

The Mariner Collection is supposed to evoke an "ahoy there" feel; even engraved with the wind-rose logo on the case back. However, I think the watch collection can stand on its own as a really elegant  sporty timepiece without the Nautical nuances.
The mens 41mm models  have a really great automatic Sellita movement, beneath an engaging anthracite dial and housed in a stainless steel case.  A ETA quartz movement lies beneath a silver-toned dial. The watches are only water resistant to 50 meters which is not really ideal for waterways. The indices and hands are Rhodium plated and treated with Superluminova. 

The white mother of pearl dial upon the  30mm ladies timepiece is punctuated by 12 diamonds. A stainless steel case houses an ETA quartz movement.  An Anti-reflective treatment is applied to the scratch resistant sapphire crystal enabling read-out at high noon.

One collection I am eager to welcome is the Concord Delirium.
I suppose we will just have to wait and see.

Tuesday, March 25, 2014

Pre-Basil Intrigue by Omega

In just 2 days Baselworld doors swing open to the waiting world of watches. Omega has just released an intriguing video of an Omega Seamaster Master Co-axial Chronometer.   Although we only catch glimpses of the watch, we can ascertain with out any doubt that Omega's latest addition is a beaut."Diving Heritage meets the future of watchmaking"
1957 Omega Seamaster 300
The watch in question has an uncanny resemblance to Omega's first Seamaster diving watch "The Omega Seamaster 300" introduced in 1957.  The indices, numerals, bezel, bracelet, hands, colors all point to an undeniable assessment of the surprise that awaits avid Omega fans at Omega's Baselworld 2014. In terms of the innovative inner workings of the Omega Seamaster Master Co-axial Chronometer, I have to be patient.

Wednesday, March 19, 2014

Countdown to Baselworld 2014

A week from now Baselworld doors fling open unto an eager crowd of watch and jewelry enthusiasts, buyers, boutique owners, journalists and seekers. From March 27th to April 3rd, show goers will venture from hall to hall and event to event gathering information about new styles, prices and brands. Old friends will meet, new ones made, contacts forged, orders arranged and signed upon the dotted line. Seven informative Baselword Daily News issues ,available online and at the show itself,  keeps visitors abreast of "must-see", news and current trends. A Baselword App on your i-phone, i-pad, blackberry and android provides useful interactive information.

I have outlined a brief Pre-Baselworld Virtual Walk to Navigate the halls. Keep in mind, this is just a hint of what awaits you at the show.


Hall 1.0 is a given to go with highly popular prolific top notch brands such as Rolex, Breitling, Omega, Patek Phillipe, Tissot, Hublot, Tag Heuer - you get the gist.

Breitling for Bentley 6.75 Midnight carbon

Hall 1.1 houses a bejeweled assortment of high end brands - famous for gem encrusted watches and jewelry  such as House of Graff, Boucheron, Jacob &; Co. and of course de Grisigono.  Great Sporty brands such as Edox, U-Boat and Clerc are displayed among high end accessory brands such as Hermès, Dior and Chanel. Seiko holds a prominent place being in a category of its own.
Quite a few lessor known brands are within these walls, but favorites are found all around.  Europa Star spans one wall - an excellent watch news source.
 Hall 1.3 showcases affordable brands such as Invicta, Follie Follie, Guess and Casio.
Jacob & Co. Epic SF 24


International Brands
Hall 2.0, 2.1, 2.2 is abundant with jewelry - each booth displaying originality in design and expertise.
Eterna, Ball Watch USA holds command of Hall 5.0.
The Palace is by far my favorite Baselworld local, housing unparallelled watch making expertise.  HYT renowned for its hydro mechanical timepiece is at P03, while at P06, the edgy and daring Artya brand  rubs shoulders with the elusive Haldimann Horology.

HYT H2 Forged from Titanium & White Gold with Blue Fluid
 The Palace is abundant with complex complications perfected by MB &F, Konstantin Chaykin (genius in watch design) and Christophe Claret.  Badollet - keeper of my favorite design and De Bethune- creator of the finest blue  are found at P01 and P02 respectively.
Badollet Ivresse like a Painters Pallet

Hall 3.0 and 3.1 is abundant with jewelry and gem.
Hall 4U holds necessary tools for the trade and Hall 4.0 and 4.1 are National Pavilions.



Unlike the exclusive SIHH , where visitors must receive an invitation to attend, Baselworld is open to the public without prior registration.  Simply show up and purchase your ticket "on-the-spot" or online at www.baselworld.com. Prices are quite affordable at CHF   60.-for the day or CHF 150.-for the week.

Coming from far and away without a place to stay? Enjoy some Swiss Hospitality at the Mövenpick Hotel Egerkingen. If you wish to be a bit closer to the action, a room at the Hotel Alexander Basel is a stones throw away. Zürich is  a 90 minute train ride away with hotels galore ready to welcome a Baselword traveller. But whether you come by land or air, it is on the water you can stay.  Book a floating room on the "Hotel Ship" for the duration of your trip. A free shuttle bus will transport you to the show - just 15 minutes away. 

The show does not end at closing time, Baselworld Village is open from 6pm until 2am.  Restaurants and Bars provide prime places to seal a deal over some fine wine and delectable dine.  

For the best and most productive Baselworld experience planning is crucial, but  the most memorable moment may just be chance. Make a memory, a deal, a contract, a sale, a moment.  Come to Baselworld.


Monday, January 20, 2014

24th SIHH 2014 Begins Today

The 24th Salon International de la Haute Horogerie opened in Geneva today.  The show runs from Monday January 20th to Friday January 24th, but don't pack your bags just yet, the SIHH is reserved for guests of the exhibiting brands and professionals- by invitation only. The rest of us will have to be patient - eagerly anticipating the new Timepieces crafted by exceptional Watch Brands. Only 16 brands will be participate this year (rather than 19 of past years)  with Greubel Forsey, Vacheron Constantin and Panerai taking center stage.   These 16 brands will get quite a showing; tastefully exhibited over 30,000 sqft with 12,500 privileged guests consisting of international retailers, journalists and brand representatives.

Of course as with prior years,  SIHH is still very much a Richemont affair with 11 of its brands taking part in the show  as well as  Ralph Lauren Watch and Jewerly Co whose 2009 joint venture with Richemont is proving quite a success.
The 11 Richemont brands are: A. Lange & Sohne, Baume  Mercier, Cartier, IWC, Jaeger LeCoultre, Montblanc,Panerai, Piaget, Roger Dubois, Vacheron Constantin , Van Cleef  Arpels.
Alfred Dunhill left in 2012 and  JeanRichard (owned by the Sowind Group) is no longer a participant.


The SIHH is a project of the  The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH).

The FHH was established in 2005 in Geneva because of the rapid increase in watch making brands. Countless brands are releasing fine watch creations. FHH has taken on the role of providing information and guidance from the watch making specialists to the press as there has been an increasing interest from the media and the public.
The FHH is a modern Foundation which for the most part utilizes the Internet for the release of information.
In addition the FHH recognizes Luxury Watches have evolved from a "social aspiration" into a "cultural aspiration"
The FHH focuses its primary attention on information and training in Horology.

Every year the SIHH is accompanied by an intriguing watch related exhibition.  This year the Exhibition describes Horology - The Child of Astronomy.  Quite a remarkable concept which requires much deliberation. At the exhibition, one is awarded to a closer look into the astronomical complications

However, the complications most prevalent in SIHH 2014 timepieces is one with far more gravity - the tourbillon. A host of timepieces feature Breguet's remarkable invention, which serves to counteract the effects of gravity on the movement by placing the escapement in a rotating cage. 

A. Lange 1815 Tourbillon Featuiring Stop Seconds and Zero Reset
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionelle 14 Day Tourbillon 

SIHH guests will also be awarded an up close and personal view of Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon.

Tuesday, January 14, 2014

Grammy Award Winning Pop Star's 15 Carat Diamond Engagement Ring by Avianne & Co.



Avianne & Co. brings dazzling dreams to life for Celebrities.  Fix your gaze on Grammy Award Winning Ciara's 15 Carat Custom-made diamond engagement ring. Future, Ciara's Rapper heartthrob, knew where to turn for a spectacular custom-made engagement ring - Avianne & Co. Leaving no stone unturned, he teamed up with Elliot, one of Avianne & Co.s highly talented custom jewelry designers, and created a ring of  extraordinary splendor.  Future and Elliot worked on the ring for 4 weeks giving much thought to the significance of detail. After many design molds, Future chose a setting which symbolized Ciara's past, present and "Future" while ensuring maximum gem stability and index of refraction - its shine.

In NYC, Future popped the question and  presented the Avianne & Co. Custom Engagement Ring to Ciara of "Body Part"  fame.   As with the ring, he gave much thought to the day: Ciara's  28th birthday.

A closer look at the ring reveals emerald cut diamonds expertly enhanced by round cut diamonds  nestling side by side in a  micro-pave setting.  A setting Avianne &  Co. has honed to perfection. The entire eternity style band is smothered in diamonds encircling Ciara's finger in a dazzling display of dancing lights.

For even closer inspection Avianne & Co. has provided an Exclusive video of Ciara's 15 Carat Diamond Engagement Ring. 

Wednesday, January 8, 2014

The Origin of 10 Watch Logos

1. Eterna -  5 ball bearings.  In 1948 Eterna unveiled the Eterna-Matic which comprised of a low friction ball bearing used to support the rotor of the automatic movement. This led to a great increase in the efficiency of the rotor. The invention of the Eterna-Matic with its ball bearings had such an overwhelming effect on Eterna, it fashioned its logo after five ball bearings.


 2. Longines - Winged Hourglass - Oldest Valid Trademark in the in the International Registary at WIPO (World Intellectual Property Organization) . The iconic winged hourglass was originally registered in 1889 in Switzerland followed by a filing under the Madrid Agreement Concerning the International Registration of Marks in 1893. Read More
3. Bulova - Tuning Fork - From Bulova's 1960's Accutron 214 movement, which was a ground breaker in electronic watches using a battery instead of a spring and a tuning fork instead of a balance.  This resulted in a watch that "hummed" rather than "ticked." Quartz eventually phased out the Accutron, but they are still well loved. Read more info on Bulova Accutron. 



4. Vacheron Constantin - Maltese Cross - First appeared on watches in 1880.  The logo is taken from the shape of the component of the movement  affixed to the barrel.  This hallmark component ensures the number of wheels can be kept low.





 5. Patek Philipe - Calatrava Cross -  A powerful symbol signifying  unbridled success.  The Calatrava Cross comprises of the Greek Cross with four fleur-de-lis at its ends. Created in 1158 by Pope Gregory VIII, as a symbol for the Knights of Calatrava (the name of an old Moorish castle that had been liberated), to bring victory in battle against the numerous and experienced Moors, as the Knights of Calatrava had been simple shepherds before becoming Knights.  The Knights of Calatrava were victorious, winning a battle outnumbered 10 to 1.  Patek chose this symbol very well.  He placed it on every Patek Phillipe timepiece to protect the timepiece and bring success to the wearer.


 


 6. Girard-Perregaux -  the Tourbillon Sous Trois Points d'Or or Tourbillon Under 3 gold bridges Crafted by Constant Girard Perregaux.  After which the design lay dormant for 115 years. In 1982 the design was revived in pocket watches and in 1991 adapted for wristwatches to commemorate the 200th birthday of Girard-Perregaux.


7. Breguet - Breguet Hands.  Breguet Hands were designed by  Abraham Louis Breguet in 1783 and are instantly identified by hollowed out points. 1775 inscribed below "Breguet" is the year that Abraham Louis Breguet, best known for the father of the tourbillon, founded the company. He was born in Neuchâtel, Switzeland on January 10th, 1747 and became one of the most revered watchmaking legends.



8.  JeanRichard - JR Initials of the company, name and date below.  Although there is no significant movement upon the logo, the date placing the foundation of the company deep within the 17th century is significant enough. The legend about the company's founder - Daniel JeanRichard is to intriguing to write here in just a few lines, but I recommend that you
Read it here - The Legend of Daniel JeanRichard 




9. Corum - Key to perfect time.
The name Corum stems from the Latin word Quorum meaning
"The minimum number of members whose presence is necessary to make the proceedings and decisions of an assembly or society valid. It is then said a Quorum is reached."
The number of a Quorum is very definite depending on the society,
The key is the key to perfect time, and the last person to arrive at a meeting whereby a decision has to be made is the key that unlocks the process. Without that one final person the door is closed and no decision can be made.







10. Omega, and its corresponding symbol Ω, is the 24th Letter in the Greek Alphabet.  In 1898, The company changed its name from Louis Brandt et Frères to Omega after its groundbreaking movement - the 19 caliber "Omega".  This relatively affordable movement introduced time setting via the crown as well as a new "assembly line" production procedure.