The Edo Period Daimyo Clock of Unequal Hours

What if I told you to build a mechanical watch which would track unequal hours? Imagine the level of complication the mechanism would require.  After all even a Perpetual Calender, which accounts for the differing lengths of months, is a highly complex complication requiring  many additional components. So what about a timepiece that tracks uneven time periods. 

In the Japanese Edo Period (1603-1868), a variable hour system was used(dating back to the 9th century).  The day was divided into 12 segments  of unequal length. It seemed almost impossible to track unequal periods of time, but Japanese clock-makers devised a remarkable way to keep time in this way.  The history of Japanese advances in mechanical timekeeping is indeed fascinating.
In the 16th century, prior to the "isolation Edo period", where Japan was cut off from the rest of the world, Dutch or European Missionaries traveled to Japan with Western clocks. These clocks,  mostly lantern clock in design used the verge and foliate escapement - bars and weights.
In 1603 the Edo Period began - closing Japanese off from the rest of the world and any further European Horlogical advancements such as the invention of the anchor escapement.

Japan cherished perfection and entire families were committed to perfecting a single trade, such as saki producers, silk weavers, marquetry and metal workers. In this period  skilled clock maker worked many hours crafting clocks for those who could afford them. Daimyo -powerful territorial lords - commanded over their lands hiring Samurai warriors to keep order and  answering only to the shogun.  Daimyo, temples, wealthy merchants and possibly highest ranking samurai were the only ones who could afford this clock.  Thus the clock became known as the "daimyo clocks".  The high price tag ,easily equaling about 20 years of a normal person's wages was due to the specialized craftsmanship and hours of work that went into crafting a daimyo clock.  In fact these clocks were so well made, today they are found in much better condition than their Western counterparts from the same time period. The superb craftsmanship may be due to the threat looming over a watchmakers head if he crafted a clock of inferior quality making his Daimyo miss an important engagement. After the clock was completed, it was one person's sole responsibility to maintain it. 

Smaller clocks were available in the Edo period, but little is known about them.  In addition very few 'Daimyo clocks are found today, since the manner of timekeeping, which I will explain in due course,  was seen as a representation of the Edo time period.  During the Meiji period this timekeeping system was abolished  and hence these clocks were destroyed. The 'daimyo clocks' that survived were actually the ones that were brought out by foreigners.

In the Edo period, the day was divided according to the eastern zodiac into 12 unequal periods represented on the dial of the clock by juunishi-12 zodiac animals - and Kanji numerals.  This system notated daytime divisions rather than fixed periods of hours, minutes and seconds.  In Edo Timekeeping sunrise is "the hour of the rabbit" other wise known as "morning six" or the stars fade. Sunset is "the hour of the cock" or "evening six" when the stars appear. Day and  night were each divided into 6 segments of approximately two hours each - depending the season and the amount of daylight hours.

Sake Making in the Edo Period

Another remarkable difference to Western timekeeping, the numbers allotted to the passage of hours  go down.

For example if an individual awoke to six temple bells ringing announcing it is "morning six" ( hour of the rabbit), he would roll up his tatami ready for the day.
He would get to the field, his workbench or the toiling over sake vats  at "morning five" (hour of  the dragon).
He would work through "morning four"( hour of the snake)
 At  "morning nine"  (hour of the horse), he would break for noon.
 Back to toiling at  "morning eight" (hour of the sheep), and start heading home at "morning seven" (hour of the monkey)"
  The daytime period pertains to two groups of numbers "6,5,4 and 9,8,7.

The end  evening hours start at "evening 6" ( hour of the bird)

 One may go to sleep at "evening five" (hour of the dog) and sleep through "evening five, four, nine, eight and seven" ( hour of the boar, rat, ox and tiger) waking up to the wind rustling through the sakura trees as clock sounds out six bells announcing the start of a new day.

Western Clock with Verge and Foliate escapement

Expert Japanese Watchmakers resolved the issue of variable hour timekeeping by placing grooves on the foliot (horizontal pendulum) and adjusting the weights to after the period of oscillation in order to accelerate or decelerate the clock. In some Daimyo clocks the speed was changed via  two balances - one for night and one for day, which could be switched automatically. Another innovation was a movable dial face, whereby the placement of the zodiac characters and corresponding Kanji numerals could be moved according to the season. Another remarkable innovation used pillar clock weights positioned to  correspond to different months with each hour of the day.  All of these variations required constant manual adjustment, and the resulting timekeeping was lacking in precision.   However this timekeeping well suited the Edo period where periods of time varied.

On the 9th day of the 11th month of Meiji 5, "The Imperial Edict on Revising the Calender" ordered the end of the lunar calender and "variable-hour system".  Japan was now in the era of modernization in sync with the Western World.  9 years later in Tokyo, Japan, Seiko was founded by Kintarō Hattori.   
 
Sources: "The Spread of Timepieces in the Meiji Period" Uchida Hoshima,  Japan Review, 2002, 14: 173-192
Wikipedea: "Verge Escapement"
Wikipedea: " Edo Period"

Swatch Group & Tiffany & Co. Saga Continues.

Tiffany & Co. Cocktail Watch

Swatch Group and Tiffany & Co. are going through a really bad break up. 
 It all started in September of 2011 when Swatch Group broke off cooperation agreement with Tiffany & Co. for  "breaches of its obligations and duties," and sued Tiffany & Co. for  3.8 billion Swiss francs in damage. Swatch Group claims they invested "millions to develop, distribute and sell Tiffany & Co. watches" but that the venture was undermined by "systematic efforts to block and delay development of the business" by Tiffany & Co.


Now Tiffany & Co. responded by filing a counterclaim for 541.9 million Swiss Francs.
Swatch responded by claiming that the counter-claim has no factual or legal basis and will be vigorously contested by Swatch Group and Tiffany Watch Co. Ltd.

So I told you it's messy - and I am sure we will hear a lot more about this case

It was supposed to be a match made in heaven.  Read Swatch Group  enthusiastic 2007 announcement: 

In December 2007 Swatch Group and Tiffany & Co. announced a strategic alliance to further the development, production and worldwide distribution of Tiffany & Co. brand watches. Under the agreement, the new watch company, known as Tiffany Watch Co. Ltd and wholly owned by Swatch Group, will design and manufacture in Switzerland a complete range of high-end luxury watches.
The enormous prestige of the Tiffany & Co. brand and the Swatch Group’s watchmaking expertise and experience in the luxury segment form a powerful platform on which to build one of the world’s top luxury watchmakers.
Tiffany Watch Co. Ltd is a Swiss company. Its products are designed and manufactured in Switzerland and distributed selectively through Swatch Group and Tiffany & Co. retail distribution networks, including monobrand Tiffany & Co. watch boutiques in certain markets outside the United States. 

(Source: Swatchgroup.com)

   After this case came to light I scanned the selection of Tiffany & Co. timepieces and was quite startled at their obvious lack of luster.  No single watch design stood out as being unique or special.

After further contemplation, I realized there collection does not appear to be the  high-end luxury watches as expressed in the original Swatch 2007 statement.
As for the design, it is not like there is lack of talent in the world of watchmaking.  At Baselworld 2012, we were presented with incredible creations from hundreds of watchmakers, but Tiffany & Co. watches seem pale in comparison to most other watch companies out there.
I mean many watch blogs don't even bother blogging about their watches anymore.  Once in a while I do scan their website hoping for that signature watch.  A watch with a definite Tiffany & Co. signature. 

Recently I did notice a lovely Floral Diamond Cocktail watch available at Tiffany & Co. for a  $125,000. An astounding $100,000 plus over the price range of their other timepieces.  A platinum case and bracelet adorned with 1,015 brilliant cut diamonds weighing 14.51 carats.  A diamond flower - very pretty -  rests atop a hatch which opens to reveal the time.  The time powered by a quartz movement. As lovely as it is, it's still  missing a certain flavor.  The flavor that is Tiffany & Co.

   But something keeps nagging at me, Tiffany has had more to do with watches than one thinks. A lot more.   Tiffany has had connections with no other than horological king Patek Phillip since 1851. Maybe the passage of time has blurred this connection, but it is still solid.   In 2008, Patek Phillip opened a 3000 square foot exclusive salon within Tiffany & Co. flagship store on 5th Avenue in NYC. And this salon is not just a show case with a couple of watches, this salon presents some of the watchmaker's unique and most sought-after timepieces, a collection of all current models, an extensive library, individual customer consultation areas, and a studio for on-site repairs.

When Swatch Co. and Tiffany & Co. partnered up, I am sure  Swatch took into account Tiffany & Co's long time relationship with Patek Phillipe and thus its somewhat understanding of the watch industry. I mean that relationship has worked for a really long time. So why has Tiffany & Co and Swatch called it quits after a couple of years and Patek Phillip and Tiffany & Co manages to keep the old flame burning for generations?

 The partnership between Tiffany & Co and Patek Phillipe is intriguing to me. To better understand this connection Read "Bejeweled by Tiffany" 1837- 1987 by Clare Phillips of Tiffany & Co.

I will keep scanning Tiffany & Co. timepiece Collection hoping that one day, I will see the signature Tiffany & Co. timepiece, which will carve a notch into the long legacy of Tiffany & Co.  Since 1837

Christophe Claret X-TREM-1 Watch Use Magnets to Display Time

Most watch makers steer far away from magnets.  After all magnets can confound the precision of a watch; however Christophe Claret embraces magnetism and uses its properties to display time.
The futuristic proportions of the titanium three dimensional curvex main plate compliment the innovative technologies of the movement.  The flying tourbillon is at a 30 ° angle for more visibility, which in itself is quite a technological feat, except this tourbillon is straddled on either side by magnetic fields.  Tiny hollow steel spheres   encased in hollow Sapphire crystal tubes travel unaided to indicate the time on a retrograde display.  The spheres are not attached to any mechanical component, but move as a result of magnetism. 


The XTREM name of the watch summarizes its  impact in horology.
X - Experimental
T - Time
R - Research 
E - Engineering 
M - Mechanism


I am truly intrigued with Christophe Claret's use of magnetism - a natural phenomenon - which watch makers work to avoid by creating anti-magnetic watches, but its seems Christophe Claret wants to tame environmental adversaries and use it for his own devices -  almost like capturing a bolt of lightening to illuminate a city.  What wonders that would do to the natural resources of the world. 
Capturing a lightening flash may be far off in the future, but Christophe Claret's use of magnetism is now. 

 The 4mm diameter spheres weighing only 0.100 grams are precisely coaxed up and down the 23mm cylindrical hollowed tube by a uniform magnetic field created by tiny magnets.  The tiny magnets are attached to thin, strong, woven silk thread the likes of which are used in the medical field. - SOFSILK
The hours and minutes are coated in Super-LumiNova as well as Super-LumiNova graduations within the sapphire tubes.  This enables visibility of the time in the dark. 
Christophe Claret utilized the expertise of professor Besson at  the School of Business and Engineering Vaud (HEIG-VD), to ensure the magnets had absolutely no effects on the precision of the movement.  
The watch is hand wound - probably because an oscillating weight would be impossible due to the  magnetism.  However two barrels are used to store the energy - one  for the flying tourbillon (affixed with double ceramic bearings to increase resistance to shock) to ensure constant uniform timekeeping. The second barrel is dedicated to powering the  display gear train regulated by a unique escapement interacting with a timing gear train. A complex series of mechanical events  cause the movement of the magnets and consequently the attraction of the hollowed steel spheres.  The spheres themselves only react to magnetism and have no connection to any mechanical mechanisms. The timepiece is equipped with  more than 50 hour power reserve

The  movement is thoroughly tested and is provided with a certificate guaranteeing quality and precision.

The timepiece is available in three version , -  rose gold, white gold or platinum each accompanied by bead-blasted black PVD coated grade 5 titanium.  Only 8 pieces of each is available.  The cost of the white gold is 264,000 Swiss francs; rose gold is 268,000 Swiss Frans and Platinum is $288,000 Swiss Francs.

Source: www.ChristopheClaret.com

Sculpting Timepieces by French Artist André Chéca

André Chéca - Christophe Claret Movement - 2009

Although I haven't heard much from André Chéca since 2009, his watch designs are still raising an eyebrow or two.  As time moves on and new timepieces flood the market, André Chéca's designs remain conspicuous in their uniqueness.  As to their aesthetics, I feel no necessity for justification. Beauty is a personal perception.

My favorite timepiece is the  2009 furry green rock watch which looks like it has grown in an exotic garden rather than crafted in a workshop. But this watch is not a mere novelty with a cheap movement, on the contrary, the watch is actually of exceptional watch making quality and design utilizing first class materials.  The movement is the work of a highly regarded watchmaker – Christophe Claret.  The beautiful skeletonized dial incorporates a tourbillon requiring great watch making expertise. The inner bezel is paved with exquisite high quality hand picked diamonds. The green mossy looking watch case is oxidized bronze and the strap is green dyed mink fur. The watch - a unique piece - was displayed at 2009's Belles Montres.

Romain Jerome Titanic and Moon Series 2009

 Basel World 2009, Romain Jerome unveiled a curious looking timepiece  designed by André Chéca.  The timepiece was part of a new Titanic and Moon series which used unconventional materials to create one of a kind timepieces incorporating unique materials.  This timepiece actually comprises of salvaged oxidized steel from the Titanic as a material for some of the watch components.  The watch represents a battered artifact lodged at the bottom of the ocean discovered centuries later surrounded by remnants of a ship wreck.  Looking at this watch, one could imagine it recovered from a chest resting on the bottom of the ocean. The case is bronze André Chéca - This watch has Yvan Arpa of Artya written all over it - and indeed back in 2008, Yvan Arpa was the CEO of Romain Jerome. 

André Chéca Belles Montres 2008

André Chéca Kaar Ours 2009

In 2008, an André Chéca creation was unveiled at the Belles Montres international watch fair in Paris. The watch has André Chéca’s signature  beaten bezel, creating a look of decedent chocolate covered in gold foil paper.   The hands are overly bold pointing to large numbers beneath which the dial is decorated with a remarkable fish net pattern.

In the last watch - The Kaar Ours, André Chéca creates a timepiece, which seems to resemble the crude stone instruments used by cave dwellers in a by gone era or an ancient tablet. The “sculpture of time” is a  bronze casing which protects a hand chiseled movement visible via a sapphire crystal case back. The band is gulachet or stingray skin.  The movement is not set in stone, and is visible via a Sapphire crystal case back.

André Chéca (Born May 23rd, 1951)  studied the art of watchmaking at the Ecole d’Horlogerie de Marseille (1967-1970) graduating first in his class. He learned the art of engraving by hand. He sees his work as pieces of art, which serves the function of displaying the time. 

Ulysse Nardin Unveils In-House Caliber UN-118

When ships were the only way to cross the seas and the voyage was treacherous, many lost their lives simply because they became lost. On October 22, 1707, four British Men 'O War sank just off the Cornish Coast, 2000 men were lost, because they did not know their longitude.

Finding a precise timekeeping instrument was a matter of life and death. (read about the Longitude Act  of 1714)

In the current economical ebb and flow finding a perfect time keeping instrument has more to do with the success of a company than "Men 'O Wars" sinking off coastlines.  In today's treacherous sea of competition, finding the perfect timekeeping instrument will ensure companies stay afloat. Now you may be wondering why I am stressing sea terminology, I mean this is not a nautical blog, but when it comes to reviewing a Ulysee Nardin Watch, my mind immediately takes to the open sea.  - Read about the role Ulysse Nardin played in the success of Marine Chronometers.

Now Ulysee Nardin has embarked on another voyage with newly appointed Patrik Hoffman at the helm.  Ulysee Nardin, the first brand to introduce components made from artificial diamond grown on silicon or DIAMonSil, unveiled its groundbreaking in-house Caliber UN-118.  Aside for this movements model of timekeeping efficiency,  thanks to the constant innovation efforts of Ulysse Nardin and Sigatec (Sion, Switzerland), Caliber UN-118 can be produced on a large enough scale to power 70 percent of its watches.  Sigatec is one of the most technologically advanced companies in terms of nanotechnology with the capability of creating watch components in both Silicium and DIAMonSIL.

 Caliber UN-118, containing 248 pieces,  is a culmination of many years of research.  The Caliber UN-118  comprises of an in-house-produced and patented DIAMonSIL escapement and an in-house-produced oscillator, patented in 2007,  adjustable with four screws and affixed with a silicium 1.1.1 hairspring.

 The movement is a certified Chronometer (not to be confused with a seafarers instrument - difference explained below ) and is equipped with a  power reserve of 60 hours.

After many years of hearing about watch components comprising of Silicium and Diamond on Silicon, it is a true breakthrough to finally see this groundbreaking technology used prolifically.


Distinction Between Marine Chronometer and C.O.S.C. 

A Marine Chronometer is not the same term used for a Chronometer today -A "chronometer" in today's term is a high-precision watch capable of displaying the seconds and housing a movement that has been tested over several days, in different positions and at different temperatures, by an official neutral body (COSC).
Each movement is individually measured. Any watch with the denomination "chronometer" is provided with a certified movement by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres, the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute or the C.O.S.C. All of Ulysse Nardin's Timepieces which carry the title Chronometer have been tested by the C.O.S.C and given the title of Chronometer.

Boucheron's Birds Surround Three Gold Bridges

Boucheron Cypris Tourbillon with three Gold Bridges - Baselworld 2012

Boucheron certainly knows how to create exceptional timepieces and Girard-Perregaux is a master in mechanical movements.  This collection is all Boucheron and all Girard-Perregaux. The three gold bridges require no introduction to the world of horology, and is the signature Girard-perregaux movement. Boucheron's obsession with the animal kingdom is quite another story deeming Cartier animal imagery quite tame. Boucheron gathers inspiration from the beauty of nature incorporating animals, from frogs to elephants to hummingbirds, into many of its timepieces.  The result is breathtaking and ingenious.  Precious gems perfectly matched for color and clarity adorn the creations bringing them to life in stone. Often rare gems, sometimes unique to a single geographic location, are used.

The Boucheron Cypris Tourbillon with three gold bridges is one of Boucheron's latest editions to its glittering flock. The elegant head of the bird, so beautiful in nature now has an equally magnificent image set in diamond, sapphire and spinal. The bright orange beak is cut from onyx and coral. Girard Perregaux's three gold bridges with tourbillon power the watch. Each creation took 10 months to complete with a staggering 1300 hours of work.

Boucheron Hera Tourbillon Watch- 2011

The Boucheron Hera Tourbillon Watch displays plumage of fascinating shades of blue achieved with a blue sapphire hue and the intriguing neon blue copper bearing Paraibas tourmalines.  The Paraibas tourmalines is found to date in Brazil, Nigeria and Mozambique.  The dial is framed by a bezel of 53 diamonds from where the exquisite plumage of the white gold bracelet extends.   271 diamonds, 868 blue sapphires, 426 purple sapphires, 310 Paraibas tourmalines and a single blue sapphire cabochon surround the wrist in feathery splendor.  The  Boucheron Hera Tourbillon watch is powered by an automatic mechanical Girard-Perregaux GP 9700.0A movement. The bridges beneath which suspends a tourbillon is surrounded by a plate paved with 160 Paraibas tourmalines and 18 diamonds. The movement beating at rate of 21.600 vph.

Boucheron Ladyhawke Tourbillon-2010

The Boucheron Ladyhawke Tourbillion unveiled in 2010 is my absolute favorite.  The falcon  has a certain raw ferocity about it, which I find quite appealing. 25 carats of 833 multicolored or "dirty diamonds" on white gold create the plumage.  Lifelike talons and a sharped curved beak  guard over the GP movement. A lone ruby red eye glares at trespassers daring them to cross the line. This piece ,capable of sending cold shivers down ones spine, displays a powerful representation of  high end jewelry and watch craftsmanship.

In the past Boucheron has teamed up with MB & F creating quite an interesting timepiece.

Hublot Creates a Big Bang at Baselworld worth 5 Million Dollars

Wherever Hublot goes they make a BIG BANG and Baselworld 2012 is no exception.
The current Hublot buzz is due to a 5 Million Dollar Big Bang Hublot Creation (SOLD to the Hour Glass Singapore).
 So let me start by describing the Five Million Dollar Masterpiece (and masterpiece it must be)
A Five Million Dollar Timepiece demands plenty of diamond - and diamonds it has - no less than 1282 diamonds totaling 140 carats. 
 And these diamonds are no ordinary compilation of carbon.  These diamonds were collected from all over the world, matched for color and clarity eliminating any imperfections.  6 Emerald cut diamonds adorn the bracelet.  Each weighing over 3 carats - exceptional in clarity - VVS and color - G. Unlike many diamond encrusted timepieces where it seemed the diamonds an after-thought to increase the worth of the timepiece, the diamond cutters at  Hublot first created the design of the watch and then went searching for the perfect diamonds.

Each diamond was hand selected, sized, if required, and set into the dial, bezel, case and bracelet with painstaking precision required by Hublot's desire to create an "invisible setting".  Although the setting is there, it cannot be seen and thus the entire watch seems as if it is crafted from diamonds. This task demanded 17 people working exclusively for 14 months.  One of whom was a Master- Cutter from New York who worked on the largest diamond.

If you missed viewing the watch in Basel world and cannot make it to Singapore where it will be on display at Hublot boutique in Marina Bay Sands and then at Hublot's section at The Hour Glass boutiques, you can view the watch in this wonderful video by Hublot.