Friday, December 9, 2011

Pre-SIHH 2012 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak to Commemorate 40th Anniversary of its Design

2102 marks the 40th year Anniversary of  the signature Audemars Piguet Royal Oak design. Many watch designs vanish after a couple of years  only to crop up in Antique shops and Estate Sales, but the Royal Oak designed by Gerald Genta, has remained a strong sale for Audemars Piguet attracting young and old alike. In commemoration of this milestone, Audemars Piguet will unveil the Audemars Piguet Open worked Extra-Thin Royal Oak Limited Edition 40th Anniversary.  The open worked dial exposes the remarkable versatility of the Royal Oak design in housing a movement as well as displaying supreme efficiency.
The timepiece evokes a response of utter respect created by its formidable presence.
The case is crafted from platinum - one of the rarest elements in the earth's crust - which neither tarnishes or wears out.  Due to its extreme rarity watch companies use platinum predominantly for limited edition watches such as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 40th Anniversary Watch.  Platinum therefore is often the metal of choice for high end watch companies to commemorate important events in their companies history.
The 39mm case is the same size as in 1972, but in this commemorative model, the  automatic mechanical Audemars Piguet skeletonized Caliber 5122 is on display too, and can be views via an open worked  dial face with a satiny anthracite finishing.  The oscillating weight is crafted in 22 carat gold with the inscription "AP Royal Oak 1972-2012”.  The open worked dial and case back is protected by scratch resistant glare proof sapphire crystal and is water resistant to 50 meters.

The timepiece is limited to 40 pieces. 
Click here to learn more about the history of the Royal Oak 

Thursday, December 8, 2011

Romain Jerome MoonFighter Pen Sure to Cure Sci-Fi Writers Block


What do we have here? Is it a bird?  Is it a Plane?  No its a Romain Jerome Moon fighter  Pen set to launch your mind through blackened skies and fiery galaxies.  Romaine Jerome is well known for causing quite a stir
with its DNA watches: Watches that contain steel from the titanic, bits of moon dust, ash from Icelandic Volcano Eyjafjallajokul rock from the "Rock of Monaco", fragments from Apollo XI and actual fibers from an International Space Station spacesuit.  Now it is a writers turn to use a Moon Fighter pen to venture far into the recesses of his mind and find a universe.  The pen is the descendant of a generation brought up with Star Wars, Back to the future and Space Invaders (yes Romaine Jerome has made a Space Invaders watch too) where good old science fiction commanded large boxy television screens and loud arcade game centers flickering with persistent aliens. 

If one did not know the image above was that of a pen and the title did not mention Romain Jerome, but rather a finding of immense proportion in a large cavern deep within the bowels of the earth - some grandiose desire of a crazed scientist's obsession to discover an earth-like planet - the image would be quite feasible.   The pen is crafted to depict a much larger object - a space ship perhaps - and this, my friends, can cure writers block. In fact encapsulated within the "cockpit bubble" (Romain Jerome's term not mine) is actual moon dust.  The pen is crafted entirely in Switzerland and is available in three models depending, of course, on which terrain one means to explore - Heavy Metal, Black Metal and Vintage.  Each model is secured with 48 hand-applied rivets - permanent mechanical fasteners used widely in aircraft construction. The rivets enunciate the perception that the pen should really be a much larger object. When the pen is not the voyager of the mind, it is protected within a leather case and docked on a carbon finished "docking station".  The pen is available in fountain and roller ball.  Romain Jerome MoonFighter Pen is certainly a writer's pen.

Wednesday, December 7, 2011

Fortis Latest Art Watch Frisson Sends Shivers Up Ones Spine

With a cold wind howling out my window, I sit down to blog about the coldest watch yet.  A watch whose name is Frisson or "shiver" in French.  The watch resembles some desperate attempt of a lone arctic explorer caught in a raging blizzard to track the time by penciling numbers on the dial and circling and re-circling the date aperture beneath an insistent layer of dial fog.
Granted, the moisture build up on a dial or glasses lenses or a car window on a rainy day is an annoyance. But Rolf Sachs, German architect and industrialist, taken advantage of this and has come up with a watch which uses earths natural properties to create the desired foggy effect.
You may recall Rolf Sachs stomach clenching, anxiety building mathematical equation Fortis IQ watch (right) with a perfect replication of the urgent chalkboard mathematical  markings most often seen at the end of an intense maths lecture.  For the Frisson watch, Rolf Sachs moves away from the mathematical department and heads over to the Department of Sciences, where he dabbles in the properties of relative humidity and the like.
The mineral glass crystal is treated with a substance which causes a constant foggy build up on the inside of the dial.  The only way to view the time is by breathing on the dial or wiping a wet finger over its surface.  The science behind this and the fact the fog within the watch does not turn into water droplets alludes me, but I can say it works.
This watch may be the target of many helpful mist removal tips, but once they perceive the icy theme of the entire timepiece, they may get the gist.  The strap is a transparent silicon resembling ice, of course.  The Frisson 25 jewel automatic Swiss movement is protected by a brushed stainless steel case. Beneath the frost, upon the dial, two pool-blue luminous coated hands are visible.  As with the Fortis IQ watch only 999 pieces are available.

Tuesday, December 6, 2011

Richard Mille Reveals RM37 and New In-House Movement for SIHH 2012

Richard Mille in its 11th year of watchmaking has surpassed horological expectations by crafting innovative efficient timepieces. At their third SIHH 2012, Richard Mille will introduce a new crown mechanism patented specifically for Richard Mille movements. This new crown mechanism  adds  resiliency and longevity to the timepiece and maximizes its integrity by increasing resistance to outside influences.
  In developing this new crown mechanism Richard Mille focused on the structure of the crown and its components noting the crown as being a potential weak link. In a traditional movement, the crown is exposed outside the case - extending and attaching to the movement creating a vulnerable attachment point.  This is not the case in the RM 37. The Crown ,accented in grade 5 titanium, red or white gold sporting a double sea O-ring and surrounded by a collar in Alcryn (World’s Only Melt-Processible Rubber), is separated from the case.
In most watches the stem is inserted by the watchmaker into the movement at the point of assembly, thus creating a weak point by direct connection to crown beyond the case and movement within the case.  This setup runs the risk of harming the movement in the event a sharp knock is sustained to the crown.  This can occur during a game of tennis , such as when the watch is worn by Richard Milles's ambassador -Rafael Nadel.
The engineers at Richard Mille have devised a solution by separating crown from case - eradicating the stem and thus eliminating potential harm to the movement from a blow to the crown. 
The case is crafted from  Grade 5 titanium. Grade 5 titanium is an alloy (6% aluminum, 4% vanadium, 0.25% iron, 0.2%  Oxygen and the remaining percentage titanium) utilized extensively in Aerospace, Medical, Marine, and Chemical Processing - stronger than commercially pure titanium, maintaining its stiffness and thermal properties, heat treatable, strong & corrosion resistance. 

The RM 37 movement is a brand new in-house automatic calibre CRMAI designed exclusively by Richard Mille movement designers in Les Breuleux, Switzerland. The skeletonized dial face explodes into life as the watch keeps time.  A large date aperture is highly distinct at the 12 '0'clock position flanked on both sides by red accents. Red highlights a function aperture at the 4 'o'clock position. The functions are chosen via a sleek pusher at the 4'o'clock position allowing for selection of winding (W), Neutral (N) or Hand Setting (W).  A second pusher at the 10'o'clock position allows for date change in differing month lengths; 29. 30, 31.  (A perpetual calender would not require this function since it takes into consideration the different lengths of months).

As with all Richard Mille timepieces, the RM37 has met the highest possible specifications and undergone rigorous testing procedures to ensure an optimal level of resilience, longevity and timekeeping efficiency.  All the components are scrutinized individually as well as the components exact performance in contributing to the movement as a whole.  To reach this high degree of competency, the three main components of the case - bezel, case band and case back - require 44 different stamping operations.  To get some idea of the process involved in creating a timepiece of this caliber, Richard Mille has divulged some timing and operational aspects of the RM 38 watchmaking process.  For example, the machine tooling process requires 2 days of adjustment of the bezel; 2 days for case band and 2 days for case back. The empty case alone undergoes over 255 tooling operations and ,in its final stage, over five hours of glazing and polishing. A 5 axis machine assists in creating the distinctive Richard Mille shaped case. The "Richard Mille" engraving alone (and one rarely adds this aspect to the hours accrued during craftsmanship) on back and inside curves requires 45 hours. The tripartite case (bezel, case band and case back ) is water resistant to 50 meters as a result of  2 Nitril (Nitrile butadiene rubber (NBR) -predominantly used in the automotive and aeronautical industry) O-ring seals.  20

spline screws (see inset left) in Grade 5 titanium and abrasion resistant washers in steel 316L secure the components.

The CRMAI movement has other unique factors such as power reserve of 50 hours; a unique rotor with variable geometry;  free spring balance with variable inertia as well as the usage of spline screws throughout movement.  Richard Mille is forging a path in the world of watchmaking and is one of the leading innovative watchmakers of this generation.

 SIHH (Salon International De La Haute Horlogerie Geneva) opens its door for the 20th year on 16th January running to January 20th, 2012.  Although the show has a relatively few exhibitors, only 18 (compared with Basel World's 627 watch brand exhibitors), it has proven to be one of the most prestigious & exclusive watch shows of the year.  The show is invitation only extended to the select few professionals invited by the exhibiting brands. The watch brands will take this opportunity to unveil exceptional timepieces crafted to make their mark on the watch world.

Monday, December 5, 2011

Chopard Happy Mickey Collection

Chopard Happy Mickey Collection

Chopard floating gems glide between two sheets of Sapphire crystal  across Mickey Mouse.  Chopard's elegant display of whimsical fun is incorporated into its watches and jewelry.  Not only does Mickey Mouse grace the dial of Chopard's Happy Diamond collection, but Walt Disney's iconic creation hangs from pendants, bracelets  and earrings. Chopard has always been highly involved in the world of moving pictures and is official partner of the Cannes Film Festival.
The Happy Mickey Collection is available in 30mm and 36mm in white gold and sporting diamonds and other colorful gems.

Gerald Genta Octo Tourbillon Retrograde Hour Fantasy watch

Of course Mickey Mouse is no stranger to the world of luxury watches, Gerald Genta (Company since melted into Bvlgari and  founder famed Gerald Genta passed on August 2011) had a large collection of Mickey Mouse Watches, which are still available and highly collectible. In the 1980's Gerald Genta obtained special licensing from The Walt Disney Company which resulted in a limited distribution of watches depicting the Walt Disney characters Mickey Mouse, Minnie Mouse, Donald Duck, Scrooge and Goofy.  The watches were crafted in 18k gold and cost between $3250-3650.  After seeing the overwhelming response to the Mickey Mouse theme timepiece, Gerald Genta continued to use the Mickey Mouse theme even incorporating the character into his Octo  Collections with complications.

However it seems Mickey Mouse's Gerald Genta days are coming to an end, but its days by Chopard have only just begun.

Friday, December 2, 2011

A Watch that Pays Your Bills by a Flick of the Wrist


This is innovation at its best, a watch that actually pays your bills. Austrian company LAKS introduces the watch2pay. By a flick of a wrist over a MasterCard® PayPass ™ reader, your bill is paid and you're up and running.  Can you imagine never having to worry whether you have some change in your pocket?  Great watch for joggers who don't want coins jangling around as they run.
Here is how it works.  Embedded in the watch2pay is a chip the size of a SIM card.  This chip is like a mini virtual change wallet working as a contactless card which requires topping up when funds run out.  There is no direct connection from the watch to ones bank account, thus it works like the EZpass (toll road pay system in the US).    This watch can actually pay for small purchases like supermarket groceries and Starbucks coffee merely by a flick of the wrist, and it is a great way to control a child's lunch money.
Upon purchase of the card, one receives the "watch2pay";Standard sized MasterCard PayPass
prepaid card – valid for 2 years and A MasterCard PayPass prepaid watch
card – valid for 2 years.
LAKS - the acronym for the CEO and president Lucas Alexander Karl Scheybal, a  family run operation established in 1986 is always ahead of the innovative game, adapting watches to the current technological climate. LAKS watches are not mere gimmicks meant to please for a few moments, but rather a high quality multi functional watch.  Scratch resistant Sapphire crystal protects the dial and hand brushed steel protects the high quality quartz movement. LAKS' is constantly involved in research and development. Its team of engineers focuses on developing the perfect watch adapted to a specific function.

Thursday, December 1, 2011

Délices de Cartier May Dreams Come True

Crystal chandeliers play prism to soft light illuminating silks and satins resting on elegant shoulders cascading to a polished marble floor.  Champagne glasses clink amidst soft laughter and  piano plays beyond rouge drapes.  Slender wrist rests upon broad shoulder encircled by a diamond encrusted Délices de Cartier  timepiece.  May Dreams Come True.

The attraction of this collection is the intriguing twisted shape of the dial and sweeping bezel like the lines of a painter making his first sweeping brush strokes on a blank canvas. In fact the watch was designed by a student of fine arts, Arnaud Chastaingt, - see video below. Cartier signature Roman Numerals accommodates to the curving lines of the dial providing for a wonderful Alice in Wonderland distortion of perceptions.



Délices de Cartier  in English means Delights of Cartier. Cartier initially obtained a "wordmark' for it in 2005 for its new fruity fragrance, which I must say is wildly popular (below).
The Délices de Cartier timepiece, revealed at the SIHH 2011, resembles  a twisted candy hinting at something sweet and delicious within.
Available in three different sizes: Small (31.53mm x 36.07mm), large (38.39mm x 43.81mm) and extra-large (49.18mm x 50.47mm).  My only personal grievance, which is highly subjective, is that the movement is quartz.  I understand the slim fluid look of the watch works better with quartz, but it still evokes a certain longing for a delight in the "candy" as well as the "wrapper."  It is always a delight though, when a watch company unveils a entirely new design evoking a passionate response which can only be the makings of a legacy.