Only Watch Auction Raises a Whopping 6.2 Million Dollars

Its Official - the Only Watch Auction, held on September 23rd, 2011 brought in 6.2 Million Dollars (4.5 Million Euros) to raise funds for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. 

The highest bid went to the the Patek Phillipe Reference 3939A, which sold for 1.4 Million euros (almost 3 times Antiquorium asking Price.) The timepiece's minute repeater tourbillon encased in steel and sporting an enamel dial is the epitome of Patek Phillipe unparalleled craftsmanship.  The Patek Phillipe minute repeater tourbillon powered by a mechanical manual wind movement Caliber R TO 27 PS and COSC featuring two gong chimes activated by a discrete slide piece was up till now only available in platinum and gold making this one of a kind steel version quite unique and desirable.

The De Witt No. 3 – X-WatchConcept watch featuring 535 components  was another big sale bringing fetching $558,381 or 410,000 euro.  This is the 3rd of De Witts experimentation and 3rd in-house movement (Calibre DW 4806)with reversible watches - a concept first inspired by a concrete mixer! The unique addition to this latest De Witt creation was the addition of an X shaped "bonnet"  partially obscuring the watch face and sparking ones curiosity as to what breathtaking  mechanism  lies beneath.  Push pieces situated at the top and bottom of the watch case activate the "bonnet" which smoothly opens with measured speed like the sliding doors of a space ship and  exposes the watch face enabling the rotation of Titanium Grade 5 -used mostly in Aerospace, Medical, Marine, and Chemical Processing and is stronger than pure titanium and is distinctive for its combination of strength and corrosion resistance, (Grades 1-4).  Of course the "bonnet" can be shut again.  Although the "bonnet" is partially concealing the dial, the dial sporting a bi-retrograde hours and minutes on either side of the "bonnet" and a toubillon at the lower part of the "X" remains perfectly visible. Another scintillating aspect to the watch is the fact that it is a Chronograph with a patented Automatic Sequential Winding (A.S.W.) device activated by a peripheral oscillating rotor.


Other sales included a Van Cleef & Arpels, Poetic Complication “From the Earth to the Moon,” No. 1/1 which sold for 215,000 euros ($292,673).

The Auction was highly successful as Luis Garcia, directeur dr Recherche at the CNRS said, “Thanks to Only Watch, we are going to be able to finance ICE (a program that was started in 2008),” This program brings together 15 leading teams worldwide who work on therapeutic strategies on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy, in particular exon skipping, gene and cell therapies.”

Greubel Forsey Wins Two Awards at Watch Gala Event In India

Greubel Forsey won two prizes at the second "Watch World Awards" at the Jaypee Greens Resort in greater Noida, North India. To receive this award, Greubel Forsey Co-founder Stephen Forsey attended the gala event organized by a well known and  most respected Indian  horology publication.  Greubel Forsey won the prize  for “Limited Edition Watch of the Year” for Invention Piece 2, and also an inaugural individual award for Stephen Forsey's “Special Contribution to Haute Horlogerie”.
The P2 is a wondrous timepiece and an asset to the history of horology.  This remarkable timepiece has four asynchronous tourbillons, comprised of two double tourbillons systems presented head to tail and joined by a spherical differential. The time display is located at the 5'o'clock position. Hours are indicated by a red arrow originating from the Greubel Forsey signature logo. Minutes are marked by a rotating disc. Beneath this display is triple mainspring barrels which allows for a 56 hour power reserve in addition to sustaining the tourbillons. Seconds are discretely displayed at the 10 'o'clock and power reserve at the 11 'o'clock. The tourbillons hold the prominent position on the dials bulging out into the bezel as if the case alone cannot contain their memorizing rotations.
Tourbillons were originally invented in 1795 by Abraham-Louis Breguet to eradicate the effect gravity had on the functioning of the pocket watch. Greubel Forsey has decided to focus on Tourbillons - an extremely complicated function. In a Tourbillon the entire escapement assembly ,comprising of the balance wheel, the escape wheel, hairspring and pallet fork, rotates within a cage.
As Steven Forsey Said, " We chose to concentrate initially on tourbillons as we felt that as there had been relatively little experimentation and innovation in that field in relation to wristwatches, we had a good chance of discovering and contributing something new."

Greubel Forsey has achieved greatness in the horological world by pursuing the science of invention just as the great thinkers of the past centuries. This greatness was acknowledged by an an international panel of judges including renowned Swiss watchmaker Antoine Simonin.  Greubel Forsey's success is not random by any means - read an excerpt from my 2010 blog ,below the You Tube clip, briefly  describing the experimental design of the companies quest for perfection.
Stephen Forsey words in regard to his double win “It’s very exciting for Greubel Forsey to be in India and to receive these prestigious awards from the biggest specialist magazine, Watch World.”



Extract from Blog I wrote before Greubel Forsey first appearance at SIHH 2010.

Greubel Forsey has made great strides in the realms of complicated watches by inventing and reinventing new ways of complicated time display. Last year the Quadruple Tourbillon (image above) was awarded "Best Complicated Watch" at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie Asia. Two other great achievements include the 24 Second Inclined Tourbillon and the Double Tourbillon 30°
Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey success is partly due to their methodical scientific approach to the process of watch making. Striving for perfection can potentially lead watch manufacturers on an endless quest, without a specific goal in sight. This prompted Greubel Forsey's introduction of its innovation platform - Experimental Watch Technology or EWT. This empirical approach utilizes experimentation and resulting data to determine the performance of the watch whilst manipulating different variables and verifying the unknown. This approach is time consuming, but extremely effective, and provides Greubel Forsey with a definite edge in watch technology.
EWT has provided Greubel Forsey with the tools to formulate new inventions, two of which are currently in the works: The Binomial, and a cutting edge isochronically stable material used to craft the balance and the spring as well as a spherical Equality Differential harboring its own energy reserve that can offer a constant force to the oscillators.
However, scientific approach cannot vouch for the undeniable aesthetic designs and superb finishing of their timepieces. That aspect is acquired by creative minds and exceptional experience.
I look forward to Greubel Forsey first appearance at this years SIHH commencing on Januar

Two New U-Boat Watches to Surface Soon

Two new Limited Edition U-Boat watches are about to break surface.  The  Golden Crown Arrow is a strikingly large timepiece coming in at a whopping 51mm in diameter and 19.6mm thick and looking more like a submarine gauge then ever. The Golden Crown arrow is about the classiest U-Boat watch yet, probably because its all done up in black and gold (can't go wrong there). The gold screw down cap, which fits above the crown, is a signature U-Boat component adding a ruggedness to the overall image of the watch. An automatic chronograph movement has a 44 hour power reserve and limited to 99 pieces. No word on the price yet.







The second watch is the Classico Titanium IPB Chronograph - the most streamlined U-Boat watch I have seen.  First of all I must admit - I love it.  I think it is the titanium case in a vacuum-deposited IP coating that does it for me. The watch case is not as thick as the Golden Crown Arrow coming in at a slender 16.6mm; however, if you like big,  the large dial 53mm makes up for what is lacking in girth.  The "black on black" hands accentuated by orange sub dial hands and chronograph indicator exude a bold discretion. A high quality Swiss automatic ETA caliber Valjoux 7750 movement provides utmost precision and extreme efficiency. This movement is the preferred choice for many watch brands such as MOMA Designs - which I blogged about last week.  The price for this watch is $5,750 and will be produced in a limited edition of 300.
Both these watches are definitely for people who like big watches which take command of the wrist.

MOMA Designs Watches

Men's Automatic Chronograph Black IP Titanium Case Black Rubber

 - $2,022.75 (55% off)

I was suitably impressed when I first laid eyes on the MOMA Designs Collections.  As to my nature and my vast knowledge of watch designs, my first reaction is always slightly critical.  What flaw can I see?  Does the watch portray a sense of aesthetic balance?  This watch surpassed my expectations.  All watch designs have a sense of rightness about them - a whole, which is more than the parts of which they are comprised (Gestalt's idea not mine)... and the MOMA Designs Watches sport the entire package - style, efficiency, functionality and supreme precision.

The MOMA watch I have chosen to depict in this blog is powered by the highly efficient Swiss made automatic chronograph ETA Valjoux 7750 Soigne movement - in case you did not know - ETA stands for Elegance, Technology and Accuracy - everything you want from a movement.  The movement is visible via an opening in the dial and and via the scratch resistant Sapphire Crystal Case Back.

A powerful looking watch case with formidable dimensions ensures maximum protection to the movement.  Crafted from black ion plated titanium, the case is highly resilient and corrosion resistant.  In addition, this timepiece is water resistant to 165 feet. which, together with its chronograph function as well as its hand and indices luminescent properties, make this watch an excellent sporting companion. The extra  large rubber strap length of 8.25 inches ensures the watch will fit around many a wrists.

Men's Anniversario Special Edition Automatic Chrono 18k Rose Gold & Black IP Titanium Case Black Rubber - $5,850.00 (55% off)

MOMA Designs Anniversario Special Edition Collection is a Collection with supreme elegance and high efficiency will add class and distinction to any ones image.  A glint of a slim 18k rose gold bezel and matching crown, a peek at the silky smooth black dial with 18k rose gold hands and indices and a long stare at the creamy rubber band only hints at the powerful efficient Swiss made automatic ETA Valjoux 7750 soigne movement that lies beneath. What you may not know is that the watch is water resistant to 330 meters, which makes this watch both elegant and extremely functional around water. The Chronograph complication enables you to determine an interval of time passed between two discrete elapsed time units and a very useful tachymeter is positioned on the inner bezel.  A Tachymeter is a scale which provides the speed of a moving object in conjunction, of course, with the seconds hand. A Tachymeter takes a value determined in less than a minute and converts it into miles per hour.

MOMA watches at the Watchery are reduced in price by as much as 71%.  MOMA Watch Designs make sure the watch you buy is of the highest quality and quality means longevity.  Whether you are a watch collector or looking to find that perfect watch, purchase a MOMA Designs watch and make yourself a deal of a lifetime.

Montblanc Villeret 1858 Pulsographe For a Physicians Use

Montblanc's contribution to the Only Watch Auction 2011, held tomorrow in Monaco to raise funds for the research and treatment of Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy, is quite relevant indeed. Beyond the bezel of the lower portion of the watch is a Pulsographe. A Puslographe is a vintage scale on a timepiece, usually displayed in red, which was used in conjunction with a chronograph and reduced the amount of time a doctor was required to check the pulse of a patient. The Pulsographe was most helpful in World War I, when a doctor had many soldiers wounded in battle and a limited amount of time. For instance in a pulsographe calibrated for thirty pulse beats, like the Montblanc Villeret 1858 Pulsographe, a Doctor would feel the pulse of the patient and at the same time depress the chronograph button. He would then count until thirty beats and stop the chronograph. The chronograph hand would point to the patients pulse per minute on the pulsographe scale.

The first watch to have this feature was the Heuer Pulsographe. It was when Charles-Auguste Heuer, son of Edouard Heuer founder of E.Heuer & Compagnie" went to visit his doctor. The Doctor checked his pulse for the usual 60 seconds. This procedure was slow and often prone to inaccuracies, Charles-Auguste Heuer decided that he could invent a better more efficient way to measure a heart beat. He set to work and in 1908 invented a Sphygmometer Chronograph. This Sphygmometer could measure the heartbeat with greater reliability. (Is the Montblanc then a Sphygmometer?) This Sphygmometer was too costly as a result of the chronograph function, and thus he developed a Pulsographe, which had the scale but no chronograph function.

The Montblanc Villeret 1858 Pulsographe will sit well around any doctor's wrist. An 18k gold 39.5mm case is a mere 12.1mm thick and protects a chronograph calibre MB 13.21, which is entirely visible via a Sapphire crystal case back. The hand-decorated components are polished and finished creating an eye catching performance of precision. The plates and bridges are crafted in rhodium-plated nickel silver. The bridges themselves are embellished with bevels that have been manually polished.
The enamel dial sporting Arabic Numerals reminiscent of vintage medical calibration machines; a red Pulsographe scale calibrated to 30 pulse beats, as well as the finely placed sub dials are protected beneath a domed sapphire crystal . At the 2 '0' clock position, a chronograph pusher executes the chronograph function as well as stops and resets it.

Montblanc has portrayed its commitment to fine quality, precision and finishing in its Only Watch 2011.

de Grisogono Black Forever Collection

Occhio Ripetizione Minuti

 de Grisogono adds a dash of color and a burst of brightness to its latest Black Forever Collection Edition with the introduction of its Instrumento Tondo timepiece . This year de Grisogono will be displaying its "Black Forever" collection at a special showing in San Fransico on September the 26th & September the 27th.  This year will mark the 15th year, de Grisogono has been designing luxury watches and fine jewelry in black diamonds. 

Black diamonds are quite rare. According to geologists, black diamonds came to our earth from outer space. (Source: Astrophysical Journal Letters December 20, 2006) Otherwise known as carbonado diamonds, these diamonds contain trace elements of hydrogen which indicates an origin in a hydrogen-rich interstellar space. Infrared synchrotron radiation at Brookhaven National Laboratory was used to discover the diamonds' source.

Instrumento Tondo RM N56/A

In addition, black diamonds are found only in Brazil and the Central African Republic. In all the worlds mining fields whether it be South Africa, China, India; where 600 tons have been mined, not a single black diamond has been found. Another clue to the extraterrestrial nature of the black diamond is in its make up. The black diamonds Carbonado diamonds are typically pea sized or larger porous aggregates of many tiny black crystals.

Instrumento N° Uno

Early data from scientists Jozsef Garai and Stephen Haggerty of Florida International University, as well as new research support the theory that showing that carbonado diamonds formed in stellar supernovae explosions.
Whatever the source of the black diamonds, their ultimate destination is what really counts in the here and now.  In 1996, Fawaz Gruozi, of de Grisigono, laid his eyes on the 190 carat "Black Orlov" diamond and  was smitten.  He decided to use these rare gems in his jewelry and timepieces.  However black diamonds are fragile and prone to breakage if not handled by a person highly skilled in gems cutting.
To commemorate 15 years of  de Grisogono's use of black diamonds in its jewelry and timepieces, the company has launched a special edition of timepieces named " Black Forever", which includes watches from the brands first watch collection "Instrumento No Uno" to the highly publicized "Meccanico dG"

The Instrumento N° Uno is superbly crafted in stainless steel protected by a highly resilient black PVD coating.  An automatic movement winds the mainspring.  A dual time and date commands center attention upon a black guilloche dial sporting Arabic Numerals and grey dauphine-style hands.  A black rubber strap closes via a de Grisigono butterfly buckle also comprised of stainless steel and coated with black PVD. 36 black diamonds totaling 1.1 carats adds a sophisticated dazzle to complete the look.  

Instrumento N° Uno DF S42

If you have an irresistible yearning for the complete black diamond experience, de Grisogono can assist.  The Instrumento N° Uno DF is an 18k gold timepiece unabashedly smothered in 478 black diamonds equaling no less than 8.7 carats.  Even the black guilloche dial  is set with 365 diamonds.  The black Galuchat (sting ray) strap completes the pebbled look.  This exquisite high jewelry watch is limited to but 10 pieces.  Given de Grisogono's star studded following ,including Jennifer Lopez, Alicia Keys, Naomi Campbell, Salma Hayek, Demi Moore, Eva Mendes and Rihanna, it seems de Grisigono will have no trouble finding customers for its newest Black Forever Collection.

Black Forever Meccanico dG N09

The Black Forever Meccanico (left) is my all time favorite de Grisigono timepiece and I am quite pleased, de Grisogono has chosen to incorporate this model into its Black Forever Collection.  The Meccanico is unique as it displays a digital read out below  the digital time display only utilizing mechanical white mobile microsegments.  Thus it is the mechanical movement of the watch which operates the second digital time zone display.  
 This particular model , limited to 10 pieces, is crafted from highly corrosive resistant and light weight titanium.  As with all de Grisogono timepieces, scratch resistant sapphire crystal protects the dial and ,in most models, the case back. In addition de Grisogono timepieces are water resistant to 30 meters.

The Occhio Rietizione Minuti (top image)  is simply dazzling.  167 black diamonds on bezel and lugs frame a black matt twelve-blade titanium diaphragm dial.  A minute repeater, which is an alarm complication sounds on the hour, quarter and minute on three separate gongs and utilizing a cathedral striking.   The Occhio Ripetizione was an innovative idea, developed on the same principle as a reflex camera. The Occhio Ripetizione Minuti has a twelve-shutter aperture revealing the movement while the watch is striking.  A matt alligator strap affixed via a three ply deployment buckle in 18 k gold coated with black PVD.  This highly unique timepiece is limited to 5 pieces. 

Black is in and de Grisogono, a company on the forefront of fashion and style, has provided.

The Cricket in Vulcain's Anniversary Heart Watch for Only Watch 2011

 

The Only Watch Auction 2011 is an incredible opportunity for  fine watch companies to display a unique watch which incorporates individual achievements pertinent to that company.  For example, Vulcain's Anniversary Heart Watch harbors the Cricket movement - a movement unique to Vulcain's heritage - as well as a skeletonized dial - another Vulcain signature.  

If you are unfamiliar with the Cricket movement, it is an alarm function or reminder function specifically designed by Vulcain  for the smaller dimensions of a wrist watch. In this day an age with fancy electronic devices, alarms are taken for granted or even despised. Alarms appear everywhere from $1 digital watches to innovative allusive alarm clocks which actually roll around.  However prior to the quartz revolution, all watches were mechanical and relied entirely on the harmonious sequential functioning of multitudes of working parts.  At first watches displayed the time in increasing precision, then compasses, tourbillons, perpetual calenders, moon-phases, dual time zones and automatic movements increased the functionality and efficiency of the time pieces.  Prior to the early twentieth century, these complications were incorporated in pocket watches, but after Santos-Dumont popularized the wrist watch, pocket watches were laid down in favor of the more handy wrist watch.  Alarm functions were available  in larger pocket watches and with a larger watch case, the capability of producing a louder sound is evident. 

However an effective alarm function in a wrist watch was a quite a challenge to develop.  Being that the watch case is small,  it was hard to produce a loud audible gong which would arouse a heavy sleeper from slumber.. 

An alarm function had three problems within a wristwatch case:

1) Audibility

2) Effecting Dust protection

3) Effecting Water resistance

... then in 1947 the problem was solved and heavy sleepers could rest easy, Vulcain presented the Vulcain Cricket. The Cricket was so loud it could penetrate the dreams and arouse the sleeper. This new alarm function woke up the World of Horology.

So how did Robert Ditisheim of Vulcain resolve the alarm audibility dilemma?  Well as the name suggests, he turned to mother nature. Let me ask you this.  Have you ever tried to fall asleep while a cricket is chirping its nightly song outside your window? Did you hug a pillow to your ear inorder to drown out the noise, but still heard its persistent resonance. AHH! Now you have your answer.

If a tiny cricket could cause such a noise, than surely a wristwatch could do the same. Robert Ditsheim Incorporated a resonance-chamber like that of a cricket by fitting a two-part back to the watch case. The inner back encloses the watch case and serves to generate the sound. A hammer strikes the watch-case ,which oscillates and produces the sound-waves. The outer case has a twofold function: First it permits the sound-generating inner-back to oscillate freely as it has no direct contact with the wearer's wrist. Second it forms a small space between the inner case back which serves as a resonance chamber. Although many Watch Companies have crafted mechanical minute repeaters, none is quite as loud as the Vulcain Cricket.

The Vulcains's Anniversary Heart Watch is a slender mechanical hand wound 12.7mm thick 42mm rose gold case. Being that the watch is hand wound, an oscillating weight (required in most automatic watches) is absent, thereby leaving the exceptionally crafted movement including the skillfully handcrafted main plate, barrel bridge and movement barrel entirely visible beyond the sapphire crystal case back, as well as maintaining the thinness of the watch case.
The Vulcain Cricket sports a 20 second alarm function and a 42 hour power reserve. Ensuring the watch is securely fitted around the wrist, a rose gold buckle is affixed to a black alligator strap.