10 Watches with a Penchant for Peacocks

What is it they say about Peacocks? Well depending which culture you belong to, they can bring good luck or other luck.  There raucous caw can get kind of grating, but they are beautiful to see when strutting their stuff. The feathers are glorious and have been used as decoration on furniture, paintings, hair accessories and of course watches. In 1963, the peacock was designated the National Bird of India. 


Below I have listed ten watches adorned in peacocks and the different dial decorating techniques used to portray the peacock theme. 

Corum Heritage Artisans Feather Watch - Circa 2014

 Dial Decorating Technique: Individually sorted, cut and glued peacock feathers.

“Into The Wild” Collection by Le Vian- Circa 2011

Dial Decorating Technique: Paved and Raised Gem-Setting. 

Harry Winston Premier Feather Watch - Peacock Feathers - circa 2012

Dial Decorating Technique: Individually sorted, cut and glued peacock feathers.

Corum Peacock Feather Watch - Circa 1970's

Dial Decorating Technique: Cutting and Glueing peacock feather. 

Chopard's Peacock Watch - Circa 2011

Dial Decorating Technique: Japanese "maki-e technique" lacquering technique.  Artist:
Kiichiro Masumura.  Urushi technique - multiple layers of Urushi tree sap is applied to the dial and then sprayed with gold.

DeLaneau XRD Peacock- Circa 2012

 Dial Decorating Technique: Enameling

Boucheron Héra Tourbillon - Circa 2011

Dial Decorating Technique: Girard Perregaux Three Gold Bridges in White Gold surrounded by paraiba tourmalines, sapphire and diamond paving.  Peacock is in white gold set with paraiba tourmalines, sapphire and diamond paving.

Bovet Amadeo-Fleurier 42 Jumping Hours Peacock (Unique Piece)

Dial Decorating Technique:  Hand-painted on mother-of-pearl.

Boucheron Watch Crazy Jungle Peacock - Circa 2010

 Dial Decorating Technique:   White Gold - Champlevé Grand Feu Enamel Dial 

Piaget Altiplano Double Jeu - The Mythical Journey Collection - Circa 2014

 Dial Decorating Technique: Two Cases - Upper Case Dial - Gold engraved peacock set with diamonds. Lower case dial (not depicted) - Piaget signature dazzling white dial with gold hands. 

“Into The Wild” Collection by Le Vian
Read more at http://phillystylemag.com/the-latest/style-and-beauty/postings/wrist-wear-watches-with-animal-instinct#2aWev8QlRrIPj8mY.99

The Origin of 10 Watch Logos

1. Eterna -  5 ball bearings.  In 1948 Eterna unveiled the Eterna-Matic which comprised of a low friction ball bearing used to support the rotor of the automatic movement. This led to a great increase in the efficiency of the rotor. The invention of the Eterna-Matic with its ball bearings had such an overwhelming effect on Eterna, it fashioned its logo after five ball bearings.

 2. Longines - Winged Hourglass - Oldest Valid Trademark in the in the International Registary at WIPO (World Intellectual Property Organization) . The iconic winged hourglass was originally registered in 1889 in Switzerland followed by a filing under the Madrid Agreement Concerning the International Registration of Marks in 1893. Read More

3. Bulova - Tuning Fork - From Bulova's 1960's Accutron 214 movement, which was a ground breaker in electronic watches using a battery instead of a spring and a tuning fork instead of a balance.  This resulted in a watch that "hummed" rather than "ticked." Quartz eventually phased out the Accutron, but they are still well loved. Read more info on Bulova Accutron. 

4. Vacheron Constantin - Maltese Cross - First appeared on watches in 1880.  The logo is taken from the shape of the component of the movement  affixed to the barrel.  This hallmark component ensures the number of wheels can be kept low.

 5. Patek Philipe - Calatrava Cross -  A powerful symbol signifying  unbridled success.  The Calatrava Cross comprises of the Greek Cross with four fleur-de-lis at its ends. Created in 1158 by Pope Gregory VIII, as a symbol for the Knights of Calatrava (the name of an old Moorish castle that had been liberated), to bring victory in battle against the numerous and experienced Moors, as the Knights of Calatrava had been simple shepherds before becoming Knights.  The Knights of Calatrava were victorious, winning a battle outnumbered 10 to 1.  Patek chose this symbol very well.  He placed it on every Patek Phillipe timepiece to protect the timepiece and bring success to the wearer.

 

 6. Girard-Perregaux -  the Tourbillon Sous Trois Points d'Or or Tourbillon Under 3 gold bridges Crafted by Constant Girard Perregaux.  After which the design lay dormant for 115 years. In 1982 the design was revived in pocket watches and in 1991 adapted for wristwatches to commemorate the 200th birthday of Girard-Perregaux.

7. Breguet - Breguet Hands.  Breguet Hands were designed by  Abraham Louis Breguet in 1783 and are instantly identified by hollowed out points. 1775 inscribed below "Breguet" is the year that Abraham Louis Breguet, best known for the father of the tourbillon, founded the company. He was born in Neuchâtel, Switzeland on January 10th, 1747 and became one of the most revered watchmaking legends.



8.  JeanRichard - JR Initials of the company, name and date below.  Although there is no significant movement upon the logo, the date placing the foundation of the company deep within the 17th century is significant enough. The legend about the company's founder - Daniel JeanRichard is to intriguing to write here in just a few lines, but I recommend that you
Read it here - The Legend of Daniel JeanRichard 

9. Corum - Key to perfect time.
The name Corum stems from the Latin word Quorum meaning
"The minimum number of members whose presence is necessary to make the proceedings and decisions of an assembly or society valid. It is then said a Quorum is reached."
The number of a Quorum is very definite depending on the society,

The key is the key to perfect time, and the last person to arrive at a meeting whereby a decision has to be made is the key that unlocks the process. Without that one final person the door is closed and no decision can be made.

10. Omega, and its corresponding symbol Ω, is the 24th Letter in the Greek Alphabet.  In 1898, The company changed its name from Louis Brandt et Frères to Omega after its groundbreaking movement - the 19 caliber "Omega".  This relatively affordable movement introduced time setting via the crown as well as a new "assembly line" production procedure.

Corum Admiral Cup Challenger 44 Chrono Gets Covered in Rubber

Corum has added color and more rubber to its Admiral Cup Challenger Collection. I must admit this rubbery look seriously works for the Admiral Cup Challenger 44 Chrono. The rubber accentuates the distinctive 12 sided 44mm Admiral Cup case.

Admiral Cup Challenger 44 Chrono Rubber timepieces are a daring collection of watches, unafraid to show their true colors of raging red, vivid blue and snowy white. The strap and bezel are rubber , while the case is steel and covered in rubber. The core collection of Admiral Cup Challenger 44 has a steel bezel and steel lugs and a more demure black or white face.(below).

The new rubber Corum's have only an outline of its nautical flags above the Admiral Cups signature time display. I like this look, as the added color of the nautical flags would cause dial confusion and clutter. I applaud Corum's sense of appeal by scaling back on some color to add more of another.

The crown and crown guard have not escaped the sudden rash of rubber, and are coated in vulcanized rubber. The signature Admiral Cup dial compliments the color scheme and at the same time provides the wearer with a clear legible time display.
The rotor is crafted in matching colors viewable via a scratch resistant sapphire crystal case back.
Inside the watch is a Corum COSC Chronometer certified CO753 automatic chronograph movement making this watch perfect for people who are serious about fun and serious about their watch.

Don't expect to see these babies mass produced, only 100 timepieces of each color will be available; however, Corum expects to release new colors every year.


(right inset - original Corum Admiral Cup Challenger 44 Chrono)

Corum Founder Dies at 95: Remembering his Life's Work

René Bannwart dies at 95 and thus the first Chapter of Corum comes to a close. René Bannwartis remembered for his unique creativity and design. Born in Zurich, he first worked at Pateck Phillipe and Omega before he and his Uncle Gaston Ries founded Corum in 1955. Working as a team, René Bannwart and his uncle rejuvenated his uncle's 1924 watch making workshop in La Chaux-de-Fonds under the now world renowned brand Corum.
The name Corum stems from the word “quorum” which means “the minimum number of persons present, required to enable a meeting, to hold discussions and take valid decisions”.
Corum symbol - the key- emblazons every watch, a testament to opening new doors of creativity, innovation, watch design and possibilities. There is always a new door to open and the mystery of time can never be completely unraveled.

In 1956, Corum unveiled its first watches, which were quickly recognized by watch manufacturers for their distinctive creativity. Through the decades Corum has delighted and continues to delight watch enthusiasts and buyers with originality and craftsmanship.

Take a look at some of Corum's original masterpieces:1958 - Corum's "Chinese Hat" with an oblong, almost pyramid shaped bezel looking very much like the hats worn by the people of China.


1960- Admirals Cup watch, originally square, the first water resistant watch ever made which only obtained its contemporary 12 sided case in the 1983. Nautical pennants corresponding to the international maritime code were added and served as hour markers on the twelve-sided bezel. In 1992 the introduction of "The Admiral Tides" incorporated a Corum movement CO-277, which displayed information such as the lunar cycle, the strength and time of the tides, estimation of water levels as well as the strength of the currents.


1964- the "Coin Watch" sporting a genuine $20 Double Eagle Coin worn by U.S presidents and prominent figures looking very much like the Coin Watches.

1965 - Buckingham Model, large in size and extremely coveted. Due to the versatility of this collections shape and size, Corum has taken watch design to the extreme creating watches covered in jewels and others sporting skulls.

1966 - “Romvlvs” watch its hour markers engraved on the bezel not on the dial. The creation of this watch was born from a delivery mishap to a Basel World Fair and the creative quick thinking of René Bannwart. 1970- Corum introduced dials paved with real bird feathers, below find glowing words from the "San Antonio Express and News" dated December 10, 1972 in regard to Corum's Feather Watch.

In fashion — a beautiful 18 Karat gold watch with a feather dial! A n y o n e on your gift list would be delighted to receive a' new watch, especially an elegant jewel to wear all the time. . The feather dials, designed by Rene B a n n w a r t , are u n i q u e to Corum watches, and the unisex fashion is becoming ,the rage. The dials are made from rainbow - colored peacock or from brown - t o n e d pheasant feathers, which are sealed to.the gold' case. Each watch face is different, since two feathers are never the same in nature. Only feathers which birds have shed are selected, an interesting note that p r o v e s ecology even reaches into the fashion watch business.
1976 - “Rolls-Royce” watch intrigued watch buyers with its resemblance to the grill of a Rolls- Royce automobile, collection resulting from a collaboration between Corum and Rolls-Royce.

1980 - One of the most popular watch collections of today was born, "Corum's Golden Bridge" An incredible innovative movement visible via a sapphire case.
1986 - "Meteorite Model" with a dial cut from a genuine meteorite.1997 - Corum unveils the the “Tabogan” watch, which contains a mechanism allowing the watch to convert to a small stand up travel clock. Corum Bubble XL Chronograph (Regular Strap) Women's Watch Pink Dial on Pink Strap Diamond

2000 - The hugely popular Bubble Watch which still in hot demand and available at THE WATCHERY for 75% off the list price. The watch gets its name from the "Bubble" that sits above the dial. The "Bubble" is actually 11 mm thick sapphire crystal. The "Bubble Watch" is the perfect Valentines Day Gift.
Corum Trapeze Ladies' Watch Watch Stainless Steel White Dial Diamond Bezel on Pink Leather Strap 

2001 - “Trapèze” named after its elegant shape adding a whispering grace and creating timeless style.2005 - “Classical Vanitas” debuted with exceptional marquetry-work applied to watch dials. Stone stone and marble fragments are cut to fit together as an intricate mosaic. The collection depicted above, displays a skull motif. A motif which Corum often uses over a wide range of collections. (Corum's watches are always a Halloween treat). This particular model depicted above was unveiled in 2006 of which five versions were manufactured with a limited edition of 50.

2005 - Golden Bridge was reinvented.

2007 - Rebirth of the Romvlvs

2008- Admiral’s Cup Tourbillon 48 and Romvlvs Perpetual Calendar

2009- the Ti- Bridge housing the new CO 007 caliber. (I blogged about this watch with much relish - click here to read more)

2010 marks a new chapter for Corum. Corum will continue inspiring the watch world with outstanding timepieces which ,I have no doubt, will all be infused with the creative genius of its founder René Bannwart.

Corum Golden Bridge for the Ladies

Corum has taken a new position in regard to its iconic Golden Bridge collection by placing the he hand-wound mechanical baton movement horizontally. 2.5 carats of diamonds cluster on the bezel like flood lights illuminating a grand spectacle. And grand it is, the wheels in motion are captivating beneath the exquisitely engraved bridge.
The sultry curved lines of the bezel, perpendicular to the bridge provides exudes a sense of liquidity and elegance. The angled rows of diamonds are set with incredible precision.

As a result of the incredible complexity and craftsmanship required to manufacture a luxury watch with this degree of excellence, only a few Golden Bridge for ladies will be crafted each year. The watches will be available in either 18k red or white gold.

This watch is a true testament to Rene Bannwart, Corum's founder. Since Corum's establishment in 1955, Brannwart vision was to have highly unusual and aesthetically pleasing luxury watches. It was a given that movement of the watches were perfect, it was the perfect design Bannwart sought.

This blog is a Luxury Watch Treasure Trove.

In case you were confused by the word "Luxury" this watch will re clarify the concept. Chopard (Founded in 1860) sells a Super Ice Cube Luxury Watch. Retail $1,130,620. Take your Tourbillons - give me diamonds - lots and lots. 66.16 carats of diamonds including 1,897 brilliants, 288 trapeze-cuts, and a center case glimmering with 16 squares. The watch is subtly pretentious and overtly glamorous. Chopard offers over fifty variations on the "Ice Cube" from black diamonds to pastel sapphires to rubies. Chopard is renowned for its incredible "gem sense" in that every hand picked gem is placed on the watch in perfect harmony and balance.
This next watch is a Blancpain 1735 - Blancpain was founded in 1735 and this watch was named for the year. At first glance this Luxury Watch worth about One Million Dollars seems quite humble; however this watch has 6 individual complications. Two more than necessary to qualify as a "Grand Complication". The 6 Complications are compacted in an ultra slim 42 mm case which in itself can almost be deemed a complication. The Blancpain 1735 is equipped with:
a) A Perpetual Calander making allowances for different lengths of month as well as leap years till the year 2100.
b) Split-second chronograph or "rattrapante" which has two second hands, one of which can be blocked with a special dial train lever to indicate an intermediate time while the other continues to run. When released, the split-seconds hand jumps ahead to the position of the other second hand.
c)Minute repeater which has a striking mechanism with hammers and gongs for sounding the hours or quarter hours at the will of the wearer. The wearer pushes a slide which winds the spring. Most Repeaters use two different gongs to signal hours (low tone), quarters hours (high and low tones in succession), and minutes (high tone).
d) Tourbillon - said to compensate for the interference of gravity on the watch thus improving the watches accuracy, From the French word "whirlwind", in the Tourbillon the entire escapement escapement is mounted on a epicyclic train in a cage and rotated completely on its axis over a regular period of time, usually once a minute. A tourbillon is valued more for its superb horological craftsmanship than its actual functional abilities.
e) Moon-phase minder which displays the phases of the moon.

The streamlined case encapsulates 740 components that takes eight to ten months to build. This timepiece collection is limited to 30 watches. Crocodile Strap and 80 hour power reserve, what more could you ask for.
Hublot does everything big. The materials under the diamonds are invisible giving a perfect shimmer to the watch. The "Big Bang Chronograph" with a heart throbbing tourbillon is worth One Million Dollars.

The following three watches have yet to be priced, but my guess is it is going to be quite high and they add quite nicely to my treasure trove of watches blog.

This sleek bracelet is more bracelet than watch but since it is a Jaeger-LeCoultre creation the tiny watch nestled between the gleaming squares is a mechanical masterpiece of fine watch craftmanship. No price quoted as of yet for this Joaillerie 101 Manchette stunning timepiece.
This watch is the Tag Heuer Fantasy where for the first time the diamonds tell the time. There is no one other than Tag Heuer themselves to explain how this marvelous space age watch operates:

This luxury watch set with 879 Top Wesselton (5.8 carats) VS/SI (1.1 mm), full-cut, diamonds hides a surprising innovation: the digital display through the diamonds. 54 of the 879 diamonds have been cut in a revolutionary way to provide a very high-definition concentration of the light emitted by 54 LEDs (light emitting diodes) that display the time in glowing red. The red is echoed in the satin strap that gives a warm and silky look contrasting with the brilliance of the multiple diamonds.

There you have it and the price is inestimable as only three of these watches have been crafted. Quite mind-boggling that a creation like this has been limited to but three.
Diamond Rotolog Watch. Crafted by Watch Manufacturer Nixon. Interesting no doubt. I kind of cannot wrap my mind around it. This watch is studded with 1,851 diamonds - 764 full cut white diamonds while the remaining ones are full cut black diamonds, bringing the total number of carats to 9.25 carats.By this time I expect you to be salivating at the sight of all these luxurious items. I was going to sign off but Corum's Classical Billionaire Tourbillon kept on surfacing above my subconscious. Retailing at around a Million Dollars - Okay $998,000. A spectacular time-piece with a white gold case set with baguette diamond bezel, transparent dial and a stunningly blue alligator strap. The watch is a manual winding tourbillon with sapphire bridges. A 90 day power reserve with a 2007 limited production of 10 pieces.

A watch like this comes up for sale only once in a lifetime like a fleeting comet. The Girard-Perregaux Opera One. This luxury timepiece has no dial hiding the craftsmanship. The watch has three bridges, a tourbillon and a minute repeater sounding a Westminster Chime.

Imagine wearing one of these beauties on your wrist.

A Creepy Corum Tale! Not for the faint hearted! Happy Halloween!

That awful clock in grandma's bedroom struck 12. It woke me. Grandma had passed on and papa had sold the clock. Or had he? The clock sounded on and on, louder and louder in grandma's bedroom. I got out of bed, shivering as the cold air brushed my skin. Papa was gone too. He had passed on and now it was just me and the house and the clocks. I walked towards my locked bedroom door, bent a little for I had carried the weight of life on my back for many years.

I felt in the deep pocket of my robe, and pulled out a big brass key. I couldn't see the key in the black midnight darkness, for if I had I probably would have stayed in bed till Halloween had passed. The key was glowing a devilish red. I unlocked the door and stepped into the hall. Grandma's room was across the long drafty hallway. The hallway was silent. Deathly silent. All the clocks lining the hallway had stopped. Suddenly I heard a faint scuttling sound and I had a sudden and immediate urge to head back to bed. Grandma's room was coming to life. I could feel it in the marrow of my old bones.

I had not been in Grandma's room since I was a young boy. I slid the key into Grandma's lock. The key was pulsating a blood red. I could see it now but all sense of reason had left. The key scraped against the lock like the rustling of skeleton bones, and the wind howled. Oh how it howled.

The door flung open with tremendous force splintering its wooden frame. I hit my head against the wall and blacked out. I was forced awake by a bony finger poking at my cheek. I opened my eyes, the bone white skull of a pirate floated just above my head and its hand ,which hovered by its side, clutched the lapel of my robe. The other hand held a glinting sword.

"Come in!" It said. "We have been waiting for you for years and years"
It beckoned to me and as its hand swept through the air dust floated to the ground. My mouth became dry. My heart raced and my legs grew limp.
"Hurry! We want to show you Grandma's collection before its too late"

I placed my hand on the disintegrating wallpaper and I willed my legs into a standing position.

I felt the bony finger poke at my spine. I shivered and entered the smothering darkness of a room unseen in decades. The clock chimed once. A deafening roar. Suddenly a fire flared in the fireplace and a skull roared to life. It tipped its hat and gnashed its teeth. The room became unbearably hot and I feared for my life.
A voice thundered at my back "Leave my place" and the fire vanished leaving a faint green light. A skull in a red Gangster hat floated within view and placed its ringed gnarled fingers around my neck. The skull floated directly in front of my head so that my old pitted nose was nearly touching its nasal cavity. Two cold red fires blazed in each eye socket. I trembled with fear.
"Get out of Grandma's room. Get out. The collection is mine all mine!"
Grandma's clock chimed. It chimed like Grandma's laugh.
Black dots began to mingle with the green choking mist. The deadly hands were squeezing my neck. I spotted something huge and orange swerve in front of me. The bony hands fell away. My neck was free. I bent down wheezing and coughing, swallowing bitter air. I heard a clatter and I looked up. The skull was laying on the floor, its red gangster hat under a dusty stool. Something told me to look up and I did. A huge pumpkin floated above my head. Carved in its thick skin were the numbers 3,6,9,12.

The giant pumpkin descended and gently rolled along the floor, stopping at my bare feet.
" Grandma wishes you Happy Halloween!" it said.
The clock chimed and ....

The sun caressed my face and I woke up. I opened my eyes and stared at Grandma's ceiling. Dust covered cobwebs lazily hung about. I sat up and looked at Grandma's empty dusty room. The frame of a four poster bed leaned against the wall. The only other piece of furniture was an old rickety stool beside the fireplace. Papa was right, he had sold Grandma's stuff.

"There is nothing here!" I said aloud. "It was a silly dream" Except something glinted in the dust. It was a watch with a skull and a red pirates kerchief. I stood up and spotted another watch among the ashes of Grandma's fire place. It was a Corum Bubble XL Corum Samedi. Another watch lay under the stool: A Corum Bubble XL Gangster and beside it sparkling in the mid morning sun was the bright orange Corum Bubble XL. Grandma had left me her collection.

I looked around for Grandma's awful clock but it was no where to be found. I turned to leave Grandma's empty room. The door was still open, leaning oddly against its shattered frame. The key was in the lock. I took the key and then it hit me. My key was an exact image of the Corum key. I shuddered and left the room.

Happy Halloween and Grandma says enjoy the Collection!

Story taken from the depths of my unconscious.

A R.Van Halem original.

Corum's Admiral's Cup Collection still in the race!

The first luxury watch that ever caught my attention was a Corum Admiral's Cup watch. I remember being almost hypnotized by the nautical colored flags in place of the hour markers. It looked so "United Nations". I still love the look and a Corum Admiral's Cup Watch holds a very special place in my heart, like an old familiar friend. I eagerly anticipate the new Admiral Cup styles Corum releases each year.
Last year the Admiral's Cup Challenge 44 Regatta, a vision in red gold and rubber surfaced. Even though this is an older model than the 2008 Admiral's Cup Tides 48, I have chosen this one because this luxury timepiece is particularly striking. This timepiece is one of the strongest Corum has produced, inspired by the tough sport of sailing.

Corum has fused 18kt red gold with extremely resilient vulcanized rubber and to titanium accomplished using advanced technological methods. This sporty luxury watch boasts the best fully integrated chronograph movement available with a split-second function. With this incredible complication the Regatta can measure simultaneous events that commence at the same time but are of different durations such as in sailing races.
This Admiral's Cup Solid Gold Watch exudes a definite sense of Royalty. With this spectacular timepiece the nautical flags are embossed on the Bezel. The nautical flags seem to flutter in the gentle breeze as their skippers wait to embark on their competitive journey. The bright red second hand imparts a sense of urgency,in anxious anticipation for the race to begin. Having undergone the rigorous testing of the C.O.S.C this watch can proudly bare the label of a Certified Chronometer. This is a highly regarded certification only extended to the very best of movements.

The Admiral's Cup watches are being introduced year after year, growing in popularity. But what happened to the actual Admiral's Cup race? The race has not taken place in five years. It was canceled in 2001, 2005 and 2007. In 2003 the race took place in Australia, but not since then and no word about 2009. The actual Admiral's Cup is an international yachting regatta. It was organized in 1957 by the Royal Ocean Racing Club based at Cowes, on the Isle of Wright in England. It was a biennial event, happening every odd-numbered years. From 1957 to 1999 the cup was competed between national teams, each having three boats. In the beginning only USA and Great Britain took part, but later other countries competed. The race was highly regarded and in 1971, British Prime Minister ,Edward Heath, captained one of the winning boats.

In 2003 the competition was moved from Ireland to Australia for unknown reasons, and instead of being between different countries, it was watered down to a competition between different yacht clubs. Then the Admiral's Cup fizzled until ...

The Admiral's Cup is a truly inspirational race of endurance and strength and I sincerely hope we have not seen the last of the race. Indeed we do have Corum's Admiral Cup Collection which is a constant reminder of the Admiral's Cup race, as well as being an icon of Corum's success in its own right.

By: Van Halem