Harwood Watches Without a Crown

Harwood Watches are distinctly crown-less.  Which does sound a trifle strange since they do originate from  the Isle of Man - a self governing Crown Dependency of the United Kingdom.  As it just so happens a timepiece crafted by Harwood Watches does not depend on the crown for winding, but rather on a patented crown-less bezel adjustment system.

John Harwood

Harwood Watch Company does have quite an impressive claim to fame: The first watch company to incorporate an automatic winding system into a wrist watch.  Of course, Abraham Louis Perrelet invented the automatic winding system way back in 1770 and Abraham Louis Breguet, of tourbillon fame,  who managed to make it work, but it was Harwood's founder, John Harwood, who in 1924 patented crown less bezel adjustment system utilizing a weight which would swing back and forth hitting a small gear which would wind the watch (now referred to as a "bumper" or "hammer" self-winding mechanism.) John Harwood was a watchmaker and a soldier during World War I. He knew from experience the winding stem was a gateway for moisture and dust to enter and confound the movement.  He mulled over the possibility of a winding mechanism within the case of the watch.

Harwood Steel with Diamonds

While watching a couple of kids playing on a see-saw, in a flash the possibility became a reality.  After a couple of trial and errors, the first automatic winding system on a wristwatch was born.   John Harwood journeyed to Switzerland with  two working prototypes and intricate plans for design to and registered his invention at the Federal Office for Intellectual Property of the Swiss Confederation at Berne.  A year later  Harwood was issued patent No. 106583 . Between 1924 and 1929 Harwood commissioned Anton Schild S.A to help him develop the winding system and produce the raw movements, and Fortis S.A. finished them.  Fortis then brought this new line of automatic watches to market. Weird thing about this story is that in 1929, the year Fortis displayed this breakthrough line of automatic watches "Harwood perpetual" at Basel World, Harwood filed for bankruptcy and the company was liquidated two years later. 30,000 watches were made before the collapse, which I have no doubt are attractive collectors items.

John Harwood automatic prototype

The new Harwood, although the dial reads "The world's first manufacturer of automatic wristwatches - Patent NO 106583 - 1924 - Harwood Watch Co."  just beneath the bezel, has no real connection to the original company and no real claim to fame to the original patent. However, since it seems John Harwood barreled headlong  into the Great Depression with only 30,000 manufactured watches underneath his belt, and could not pull through ,groundbreaking invention or not, he deserves recognition and I applaud the current Harwood for that. 

Here is a great insightful  blog from Oriental Watchsite about the Harwood History.

As to the watches, I find the design comfortably appealing. The fluted bezel serves as the point of adjustment with a clear "safe mode" or "adjustment mode" at the 6 'o'clock just in case one turns the bezel by accident.   The watches are all automatic in vision  with the original Harwood invention. The watches are available in steel, gold, sterling silver (not often used) as well as an edition sporting 48 brilliant cut diamonds on the bezel.  The watches are sized at either 35mm or 39mm strapped to the wrist by high quality alligator leather straps.

To Commemorate 80 years of John Harwood receiving the automatic winding  patent, current Harwood unveiled Limited Edition Watch called the "HARWOOD LOUIS REGUIN"  The enamel dial is decorated with an exquisite vision of floating angels surrounded by china blue borders.  As the name suggests, the artistry on the dial is reminiscent of renowned Swiss miniature painter,  Louis Reguin (1872-1948). 

Platinum versions are limited to 25 pieces and steel versions to 100 pieces.   

Tourbillon Cufflinks by Tf Est. 1968

You gotto love them, these new Tourbillon Cuff links, which I think is a brilliant idea. The sleek elegance of the cuff links add a sense of mysterious motion to the wearer. Perfectly round and crafted in steel, the tourbillon will move with the motion of the wearers wrist. A transparent mineral crystal coated with Sapphire ensures scratch resistance and maximum shock absorption. In order to prevent humidity from entering the cuff link, it is almost waterproof - a term not used in watch descriptions, but quite okay in describing these cufflinks. Nnot an actual tourbillon movement as one would find in a watch, the cuff links are rather a hair balance movement with an escapement wheel, to mimic the tourbillon movement. This is done very well, and the effect is outstanding.
The cufflinks salute the Tourbillon, which is an hypnotic complication invented in 1795 by French watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet, a century after Newton defined gravity. Breguet reasoned that as a result of the constant position of the vertical position of the pocket watch, the balance spring is confounded by the effect of gravity effecting the accuracy of the watch. This error could be compensated with a tourbillion whereby the escapement, balance wheel, and balance spring is placed in a rotating carriage which turns once per minute on its own axis.

Cufflinks are all for the fashion and the show and there is no better way to draw attention to your latest acquisition than a captivating model tourbillon.

The Tourbillon cuff link is shock resistant and water resistant able to withstand sharp movements. If by some unfortunate circumstances whereby a certain "used to be loved one" throws a glass of champagne into your face and onto your shirt,for a reason you cannot quite fathom, your watertight cuff links are safe. (Now I am not saying this will happen). If the situation gets worst and you find yourself running through the streets with the large brother "of used to be loved one" hot at your heels, for a reason you still cannot quite fathom, your cuff links will remain securely fastened on your sleeve, as they are anchored by an extremely dependable snappy precision clasp system.

Girard Perregaux Diamond Covered Cat's Eye Tourbillon

Girard Perregaux originally introduced the Cat's Eye movement to provide women with the pleasure of owning a mechanical timepiece with a complication. To me, the latest Girard Perregaux Cat's Eye Tourbillon Haute Joaillerie timepiece is the epitome of timekeeping perfection.
Now I don't usually salivate over watches - I mean not overtly, but just look at Girard-Perregaux latest Cat's Eye Movement smothered in diamonds broken only by a captivating tourbillon suspended beneath a signature Girard Perregaux bridge.

The case is crafted in 18k white gold, which serves as the ultimate backdrop to 20 carats of diamonds. The exceptional diamond paving design and Girard-Perregaux in-house caliber GP09700-0006 manually wound (not automatic) required 700 hours of intense work.
The gray satin strap compliments the alluring display of diamonds and is secured with a white gold buckle decorated with ... what else... diamonds.

Oh and the price... how could I forget. For $490,000 this beauty can be yours to covet.

Wow! Look what Cartier has done to the Tank.

Once in a while a watch stops me in my tracks as a result of its breathtaking beauty. This is one of them without a doubt. The Cartier Tank Americaine Tourbillon Volant Watch. It is a Tank, a Cartier Icon. Click here to read more on the Tank.

With mounting financial "butterflies in the stomach" uncertainty in the Luxury Watch Business, Cartier has improved on a much loved classic. The outcome a gem of a watch with its "Tourbillon Volant" or "Flying Tourbillon". A tourbillon is a complication originally created in 1795 by French watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguetto to counter the effects of gravity on the movement of the watch. Cartier has placed everything that works in a Watch, so that the watches success is its birthright. The dazzling sapphire crystal cabochon accentuates the crown, and the 18k rose gold softens the look. The watch has a mechanically wound 9452MC movement with a flying Tourbillon complication and the Geneva Seal. The Power reserve is 50 hours.

This watch is quite large for a tank: 52mm tall and 36mm wide, but in this case the bigger the better. The heat-blued hands and the Roman Numeral Hour indicators are wonderfully Cartier.