How to Determine the Quality of a Watch

Girard - Perregaux Iconic 3 Gold Bridges

Everyday new watch companies crop up, some baring unknown names on the dial and some reviving dormant watchmaking names dipping quite generously into past historic watchmaking feats adopting its name sake's centuries old history.

However, whatever the name of the company - and there are some where the current company, name and history are an unbroken chain of exemplar watchmaking like Girard- Perregaux, Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Patek Phillip,  Vacheron Constantin e.t.c., the quality of the current production must speak for itself.

Here are some tips to determine the quality of a timepiece:

The movement:

The movement is the essence of the watch, without it the watch is merely an empty form without function.  Precision, dependability and longevity require a good movement.

An ETA movement like the Valjoux 7750 or ETA 2824 has been tried and tested countless times, and purchasing a watch with the Swatch Group movement ensures excellent quality, precision and longevity.  Swatch group is slowing ETA supplies down for companies it does not own; however, the generic Sellita SW200 is just as good as the ETA 2824.

Boucheron Bird & Girard Perregaux's 3 Bridges

In house movements increase the price of the watch, but the quality is excellent.  In house movements are movements manufactured by the watch company itself.  This means that from conception  to finished product, the watch is made within the framework of that company.    High end watch manufacturers - true watch manufacturers - like FP Journe , Girard-Perregaux, Richard Mille, MB & F, Chopard ( L.U.C movements),  focus on metallurgy, innovation, resilience and precision. Some high end watch companies collaborate joining both companies crowning expertise.  For example Boucheron and Girard- Perregaux (both companies of the Sowind group) joined to create gem encrusted birds surrounding Girard-Perregaux iconic three gold bridge movement.

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Chronometer

After a movement is completed, it is tested.  Watch manufacturers have their own testing regiment, which consist of multiple phases of quality control. High end watch companies test each watch component during the construction phase, as well as the final product.
 Swiss Made watch movements must adhere to stringent quality control.
 Some watch companies opt to have an outside source test the movement like the COSC ( Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) or, the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute, which subjects the watch movement to rigorous lengthy testing (15 days and nights)  to determine the quality and precision. Once a movement has passed these tests, the watch is a Certified Chronometer.  In Rolex it is known as a Superlative Chronometer.  

Another testing institute is The Geneva Seal which has recently tightened its watch requirements to almost impossibly strict standards.   Roger Dubuis leaped to the challenge and unveiled the first watch to meet these new stringent requirements. 

I am not so familiar with Japanese and Chinese movements, both of which have a long history in fine watchmaking.  In fact the Chinese watchmaker Kiu Tai Yu  craftsmanship techniques are so well respected that his book "Time in Pocket"was adopted by a Swiss watchmaking school as a standard reference work. (read more about Kiu Tai Yu). 
Japanese brand Seiko is innovative and of excellent quality.  A word of caution though, when purchasing a watch with a Japanese movement from an unknown brand - do your research and determine the quality.

The Crystal: 

The crystal is one of the easiest ways of determining if you are buying a really cheap watch with so so quality or more mid to higher range.  If you are offered an expensive watch with  mineral crystal - raise an eyebrow or two.  Mineral crystal is used mostly in lower range watches.  A watch in the mid to high range should have a sapphire crystal, which is almost as hard as diamond and scratch resistant. Read more about Scratch Resistance.

Material: 

RM 050 with Carbon Nanotube

Artya with Dinosaur Dung

Gold, either white, yellow and rose as well as platinum signify a watch of higher value.  Steel is slightly more shady - but without a doubt for a high quality steel watch, the steel must be 36L surgical grade - used in medical equipment.  As a result of its durability, light weight, shock and corrosion resistant, titanium has become a favorite among watch brands like Richard Mille; however, there are many grades of titanium. Grade 5 is the most commonly used in watches, as it is much stronger than commercially pure titanium, is heat treatable and easy to weld. Carbon Fiber and Ceramic are both hot materials at the moment and are used in low to high range watches.
High tech material advances are in the works like Richard Mille's carbon nanotubes.  Yvan Arpa at  Artya is known for experimenting with different materials like concrete or dinosaur dung.- talk about variety.

In his Romain Jerome days, he incorporated parts of the titanic, moon dust and fiber from an astronaut suit as part of the companies DNA collection.
Watches smothered in gems like those mouth watering House of Graff and Piaget creations are quality personified, not because they are smothered in gems, but because they are the products of  highly regarded companies.

Gold-plated watches are a bit tricky since the material underneath may contain allergens such as nickel. Read more about Nickel Allergy


Case: 

Rolex Sky Dweller

The function of a case, apart from design and signature appeal, is its ability to protect the movement.  A movement must be protected from moisture, dust, shocks and magnetic field.
Depending on the function of the watch, the stated water resistance of a watch must live up to its requirements; however the components ,like the gaskets (rubber O rings), can deteriorate over time especially if exposed to abrasive minerals and chemicals such as salt and chlorine.  Thus although the water resistance of a watch claims to be suitable for 1000 meters, over time this water resistance is reduced. Upon purchase, a high quality watch will live up to its claim of water resistancy.  Although this sounds pretty obvious, there are countless stories of people who have submerged their timepiece, claiming to have a water resistancy of 200 feet, into water and completely flooded the movement and ruined the dial.  When one purchases a second hand watch, one must have the water resistancy checked by a certified watch maker to determine the water resisatncy.
Some watches are advertised as being high in shock absorbency able to withstand a thwack of arm with racket against ball. The cases of these watches are designed to secure the movement and all the components.  Obviously all watches should be able to withstand  movement of the wrist , and not fall into a heap of jangling disjointed components. I have had watches where the hands have simply fallen off skittering across the dial in useless motion.  In a good quality timepiece this should never happen!
Watches must have some form of anti-magnetism - which has quite an official place in the watchmaking world and not a new concept (see below)

  See excerpt from Wikipidea (to technical for me)  "The international standard ISO 764 Horology—Magnetic resistant watches defines the resistance of watches to magnetic fields. According to ISO 764 or its equivalent DIN 8309 (Deutsche Industrie Norm - German Industry Norm) a watch must resist exposition to a direct current magnetic field of 4 800 A/m. The watch must keep its accuracy to ± 30 seconds/day as measured before the test in order to be acknowledged as a magnetic resistant watch. Annex A of ISO 764 deals with watches designated as magnetic resistant with an additional indication of intensity of a magnetic field exceeding 4 800 A/m.




Strap and Clasp:

Aside for fashion statement, the strap and clasp have an important function.  As the proverb goes "A chain is only as good as its weakest link".

Maurice Lacroix Buckle Clasp Combo

Leather straps are most often affixed with a buckle - which has served mankind for centuries.  Metal bracelets are slightly more tricky and rely on a clasp for closure.
With a faulty clasp one may no longer need to worry about the quality of ones watch, since the watch may no longer in ones possession, but rather laying  on the seat of a bus seat two towns away.
Thus a watch should have some type of safety clasp. Many watch manufacturers utilize a double fold deployment clasp, so the clasp locks in to places and even if it should open, the watch is still on the wrist.

De Grisogono Gulachet Watch Strap

However with a wrist watch, comfort is everything, thus when one tries on the watch, one must make sure the edges of the clasp do not dig in to ones skin.
The variation of clasps are abundant, but the most important issue is security. 
Since the band is the part of the watch most in contact with your skin, before you purchase your watch make sure you are not allergic to the type of material.  For highly sensitive skin, make sure the watch you purchase has the ability to switch strap.  Jaermann & Stübi (golf watches) line the inside of their leather straps with a hypoallergenic material which absorbs sweat.
High quality watches use mostly alligator leather, where as calf leather is used in more mid range watches. Of course I have seen watches using toad skin (Artya), mink fur (Andre Checa) and Gulachet (de Grisigono) as bands.

There are so many types of rubber straps - too numerous to count - but since the strap is against ones skin  most of the day one must determine the quality.

Reputation:

AVOID FAKES AND REPLICAS


There is absolutely no determination of quality when one purchases a fake or replica timepiece.  Since their is no regulation of standards, the material is inferior, the movement is up for grabs and their is no certainty of water resistance, scratch resistance and anti-magnetic properties.


Know Your Source:  
Purchase your watch from a official watch dealer or from the watch manufacturer itself, so that if the watch does not live up to its standards, you can always return it or have it repaired. Make sure you have the Certificate of Authenticity.

A watch is an important purchase managing your time day after day.

What You Don't Know About Water Resistance and Your Luxury Watch. (But about to find out)

Summer is here and that means lots and lots of water. Whether you intend on splashing or swimming or floating or diving or just hanging around at the water's edge, you need a watch with some measure of water resistance. Here are some useful tips on what makes a watch water resistant and if the water resistancy of your watch is enough for the type of water sports you enjoy. If you plan on entering a dark underground watery chamber in full diving gear, then a watch with a helium valve and 300 + water resistance is probably the best idea. If on the other hand, you cannot swim - nope never learnt and have no intention of doing so, than a watch which can handle a splash or too is your best bet. The market is absolutely brimming with great water resistance watches, some of which have water resistancy exceeding man's maximum diving depth like the Hublot King Power Diver 4000m or Clerc Hydroscaph 1000m.

So what exactly is water resistance and what makes one watch more water resistant than another.
What components make a watch water resistant?

Gasket

– O rings made of rubber, nylon or Teflon. The gaskets form water tight seals at the areas where the crystal, back and crown meet the watch case.

· Sealant – a quick hardening liquid. The sealant lines the water-resistant watch case. This helps prevent any moisture from entering the watch case.

· Watch case. The thickness and material of the watch case also play a major factor in determining whether the watch can be safely submerged in water. A sturdy case has a greater ability to withstand the water pressure without caving in, thus the case is made from steel, titanium or steel plated with gold. Solid gold cases can be water-resistant if they are thick enough.

· A screw in case back – rather than the push in case back.

· A screw in Crown – found in most diver watches. This helps prevent water penetrating the watch-stem hole.

2. What will happen if water gets into my watch?

When water seeps into the interior of the watch, watch parts can rust, slowing down mechanical mechanisms or short circuiting electronics. Therefore utmost care must be taken to ensure that the type of water activity you do with your watch, meets the luxury watch manufacturers guidelines.

2. Why can’t I find a water-proof watch?

A couple days ago my friend approached me. He was in the market to purchase a new luxury watch; however, he was becoming very agitated..

“I have searched high and low, from website to website, but I just cannot seem to find a watch that is labeled water- proof.”

“Well, “I said pleased with my new found knowledge, “I can help you on this one. The Federal Trade Commission has issued strict guidelines that prevent watch marketers from labeling their watches water-proof, so even the watch that you will purchase for scuba diving will not be labeled water-proof. The term is illegal and no longer used.” My friend seemed much happier and bought his watch the very next day.

3. The label on my watch clearly states “water resistant to 50 meters” but the sales person informed me that I could only use this watch for swimming, not for diving or snorkeling.

The water-resistance levels are only useful if the watch and water is perfectly motionless. The tests to determine the water-resistance have been done in a controlled environment with no confounding factors. In the real world the swimmer and the water is in constant motion adding additional pressure to the watch. So although the label may clearly state that the watch is water-resistant to 50 meters, it means 50 meters in lab testing machines, and not in the swirling ocean currents or violent sprays of water during White Water Rafting.

4. What are the different levels of water-resistance?

My friend did call me about a 100 times more before purchasing his watch. This was one of his more valid questions. I was in a great mood, so I tabulated my findings. My friend loves tables.

Water Resistance Rating	Suitability	Comments	Watch Example
Water Resistance 30m or 50m	Water related work & fishing	NOT for swimming or diving
Water Resistance 100m	Surfing, swimming, snorkeling, sailing & water sports	NOT suitable for diving
Water Resistance 200m	Professional Marine activity and serious water sports	NOT suitable for diving
Divers 100 m	MIN ISO standard for scuba diving at depths not requiring helium gas.	These watches are generally older watches
Diver’s 200 m or 300 m	Suitable for scuba diving depths not requiring Helium gas	Most contemporary diver’s watches have this rating.
Diver’s 300 + m helium safe	Suitable for saturation diving (helium enriched environments).	Watches designed for Helium mixed-gas diving will have additional markings.

5. I have come across the abbreviation ATM when describing the watches water-resistance. What does it stand for?

ATM is an abbreviation for “atmosphere” which equals ten meters of water pressure.

6. Does my watch maintain the same water-resistance indefinitely?

Absolutely not! Just like any piece of machinery – watches wear with time. Gaskets can become corroded or misshapen, hampering the effectiveness of the water-resistance. The cases can become dented creating tiny gaps where water can enter, and crystals can become loose or broken. As a result your watch needs preventative maintenance just like your car.

7. I have just purchased my watch, when do I need to check the water-resistance?

Your watch needs to be checked at least once a year. In addition, the watch needs to be reexamined every time the case-back is open as the gaskets can become dislodged. Make sure that you take your watch only to a Service Center Authorized by the manufacturer.

8. What else can affect my watch’s water-resistance?

· Exposing your watch to heat like entering a hot tub or a sauna can cause the gaskets to lose their shape and capability to keep out water.

· Certain chemicals such as heavily chlorinated water, hair spray and perfumes can work their way into the seams of the watch and damage the gaskets.

9. What about the Watch Strap?

As in the watch case, the watch strap must be suitable for water wear. The most recommended strap materials are rubber, metal, plastic or nylon. Stay away from leather unless of course the leather has been treated to resist water, and guaranteed safe for swimming.

Caring for your Luxury Watch.

You have just purchased an exquisite Patek Phillipe Complicated Perpetual Calendar luxury watch. This is a purchase of a lifetime, a legacy to be passed from generation to generation. After all Patek Phillipe is one of the most sought after watch brands , a triumph held since 1839. The craftsmanship is impeccable, the movement - a symphony of moving parts. However,

this watch, like all other watches, require proper storage and maintenance. A watch can last many lifetimes if taken care of. When purchasing your watch do a bit of research into caring for your watch.

• A Watch is comprised of many different parts that need to be cared for in different ways. The part of the watch that bares most of the brunt of everyday wear and tear is the Watch Crystal (the transparent cover on your watch face) and requires care. The Sapphire Crystal is an extremely hard material - 9 on the Moh Scale and is scratch resistant to most materials.
  
  Caring for your Watch Crystal1. Wrap your Luxury watch in a soft cloth before placing it on a hard surface such as your granite kitchen counter.
  
  2. Whenever possible, store your Luxury Watch in its original box.
  
  3. Do not store your Luxury Watch with your other jewelry. Diamonds are harder than Sapphire Crystal and can scratch the surface.
  
  4. Avoid wearing your Watch during high risk activity such as moving heavy equipment or Sports such as Rock Climbing. (Some Sports Watches are crafted for this type of activity. Make sure your Watch is designed for those activities.)
  
  5. Avoid wearing other jewelry on the same wrist as the constant rubbing may cause abrasions to your Watch.
  
  6. Avoid inadvertently scraping you watch against corridor walls or on furniture. Some man made materials used to make simulated stone surfaces for furniture and walls comprise of incorporated silicon carbide which is a very hard material and can scratch most Watch Crystals.
  
  Although your watch is Sapphire Crystal, thereby making it Scratch Resistance, it is not Scratch Proof. (Read my post entitled "What makes my Watch Scratch Resistant?" to completely understand the concept.)
  
  Caring for your Watch Bracelet:
  Whether your Watch Bracelet is stainless steel, gold, gold-plated, platinum, titanium, Tungsten Carbide, rubber or a combination, the same precautions must be taken as Caring for your Watch Crystal. (above) .
  
  Caring for your Leather Watch Bands:
  1. Do not expose your Leather Strap to water. Water causes the leather to become brittle, crack, and eventually break.
  
  2. Do not expose your Watch strap to perfumes and other chemicals; this may degrade the leather.
  
  The length of your watches lifespan is determined by your care, personal wearing habits, and the climate in which you live.
  
  
  Caring for your Quartz Watch and battery.
  1. Do not pull out the stem/crown of your Watch in order to save your Watch battery. You will be harming your watch by exposing its movement to dust and moisture which may cause the Watch movement to malfunction. In addition, pulling out the Watch stem/crown will not save your battery life, it merely disengages the hands from the movement. The movement still runs depleting the battery power.
  
  2.Your Watch Battery is probably a 1.55 volt silver oxide battery. It will probably last 2-5 years depending on the brand, type of watch and movement. Do not attempt to change your watch battery yourself, especially if your Watch is water resistant. Opening the back of the Watch by an unauthorized individual may void the warranty of your watch. This task must be performed by an Authorized Service Center for your Watch Brand or an accomplished watchmaker who will change the battery by performing a detailed process of 27 intricate steps. Listed below are the main steps involved:
  Measurement of the lower working voltage


• Timing test on quartz timer


• Replacement of gaskets and crown if worn down, thereby hampering the watches water resistance.


• Checking proper fit of case back and gasket seat


• Testing the water-resistant models to ensure seal has been reestablished


• Finally cleaning the case and metal bracelet

Quartz watches are powered by the battery and therefore do not need to be wound.
Caring for the movements of your Watch.
1. A loose, chipped or cracked crystal must be replaced immediately to prevent dust from entering the watch movement. Dust is a Watches nightmare. Even a tiny speck of dust can stop your Watch.

2. In the event a watch is only worn on rare occasions, store your Watch in its original box in a dry area to protect it from dust.

3. Regular maintenance is the key for the longevity of your watch. A mechanical movement needs to be serviced every 3-5 years, and a quartz movement at every battery change. Water resistance seals and gaskets can become worn resulting in small open spaces which will allow air, dust and moisture to enter.

Caring for Water Resistancy of your Watch.

1. Do not submerge your Watch in Water even though it states it is water resistant. Watches that are Water Resistance to 30 meters can only withstand minor splashes. No Watch is Water Proof. Some Watches like the Tag Heuer Aquaracers are Water Resistant to 300 meters; however, although it can used for extreme Water Sports , it requires a Helium valve for very deep dives.
2. Service your Watch once every 2-3 years to ensure that your watch remains water resistance. Seals and Gaskets may crack and need to be replaced. Water Resistance is not permanent.

3. Do not shower, bathe or swim while wearing your watch. Other agents such as chlorine, steam, soap, mildew, salt water and perfume, may enter the watch. If not cleaned immediately, these agents will over time corrode the gaskets and the seals thereby effecting the watches water resistance as well as allowing dust to enter, damaging the movements of your watch.


There is no substitute for good watch habits. Take care of your Watch and it will keep on ticking.

What makes my luxury watch scratch resistant?

A good question! There is nothing more unsightly than a luxury watch with a huge scratch across the face. Luckily most luxury watch crystals (the transparent cover that protects the watch face) are synthetic sapphire. Sapphire is an impressive No. 9 on the Mohs scale of Hardness. This scale is the preferred method used to rank Gemstones and other minerals according to their hardness. The scale is graded from 1 to 10; 1 being the softest (talc) and 10 being the hardest (diamond)
A fingernail is 2.5 and pure gold, silver and aluminum ranges is a mere 2.5; glass is between 5.5 and 6.5 and emerald is 7.5. Both Ruby and Sapphire tie at No. 9.
The rule of the thumb is that any higher digit on the scale can scratch any lower digit. A diamond can scratch just about anything, whereas talc can be scratched by anything.

Sapphire crystal is therefore one of the hardest materials on the earth, and as a result scratch resistant to any material lower on the Mohs scale. Being a whopping 9 means that the crystal is quite protected .However, before you go about testing the watch yourself, remember that since sapphire crystal is so hard, it is also brittle, and can shatter or chip more easily than some of the other watch crystals like Plexiglas or mineral glass. In addition some man made materials used to make simulated stone surfaces for furniture and walls comprise of incorporated silicon carbide. This material ranges between 9 and 10. The watch wearer should be careful not to scrape the watch against this type of wall or furniture, as this could result in a scratch of the watch crystal.

Although your watch is scratch resistant , it does not mean that the watch crystal is necessary sapphire crystal. Some watch crystals are coated with a hard substance that makes them scratch resistant.

As with any luxury watch, good maintenace and care is part of the longevity of your watch. So if you looking to buy a:

TAG Heuer - Cartier - Movado - Ebel - Concord - Breitling - Audemars Piguet - Corum - IWC - Longines - Omega - Vacheron Constantin


... remember this post.