Countdown to Baselworld 2014

A week from now Baselworld doors fling open unto an eager crowd of watch and jewelry enthusiasts, buyers, boutique owners, journalists and seekers. From March 27th to April 3rd, show goers will venture from hall to hall and event to event gathering information about new styles, prices and brands. Old friends will meet, new ones made, contacts forged, orders arranged and signed upon the dotted line. Seven informative Baselword Daily News issues ,available online and at the show itself,  keeps visitors abreast of "must-see", news and current trends. A Baselword App on your i-phone, i-pad, blackberry and android provides useful interactive information.

I have outlined a brief Pre-Baselworld Virtual Walk to Navigate the halls. Keep in mind, this is just a hint of what awaits you at the show.


Hall 1.0 is a given to go with highly popular prolific top notch brands such as Rolex, Breitling, Omega, Patek Phillipe, Tissot, Hublot, Tag Heuer - you get the gist.

Breitling for Bentley 6.75 Midnight carbon

Hall 1.1 houses a bejeweled assortment of high end brands - famous for gem encrusted watches and jewelry  such as House of Graff, Boucheron, Jacob &; Co. and of course de Grisigono.  Great Sporty brands such as Edox, U-Boat and Clerc are displayed among high end accessory brands such as Hermès, Dior and Chanel. Seiko holds a prominent place being in a category of its own.
Quite a few lessor known brands are within these walls, but favorites are found all around.  Europa Star spans one wall - an excellent watch news source.
 Hall 1.3 showcases affordable brands such as Invicta, Follie Follie, Guess and Casio.

Jacob & Co. Epic SF 24

International Brands
Hall 2.0, 2.1, 2.2 is abundant with jewelry - each booth displaying originality in design and expertise.
Eterna, Ball Watch USA holds command of Hall 5.0.
The Palace is by far my favorite Baselworld local, housing unparallelled watch making expertise.  HYT renowned for its hydro mechanical timepiece is at P03, while at P06, the edgy and daring Artya brand  rubs shoulders with the elusive Haldimann Horology.

HYT H2 Forged from Titanium & White Gold with Blue Fluid

 The Palace is abundant with complex complications perfected by MB &F, Konstantin Chaykin (genius in watch design) and Christophe Claret.  Badollet - keeper of my favorite design and De Bethune- creator of the finest blue  are found at P01 and P02 respectively.

Badollet Ivresse like a Painters Pallet

Hall 3.0 and 3.1 is abundant with jewelry and gem.
Hall 4U holds necessary tools for the trade and Hall 4.0 and 4.1 are National Pavilions.



Unlike the exclusive SIHH , where visitors must receive an invitation to attend, Baselworld is open to the public without prior registration.  Simply show up and purchase your ticket "on-the-spot" or online at www.baselworld.com. Prices are quite affordable at CHF   60.-for the day or CHF 150.-for the week.

Coming from far and away without a place to stay? Enjoy some Swiss Hospitality at the Mövenpick Hotel Egerkingen. If you wish to be a bit closer to the action, a room at the Hotel Alexander Basel is a stones throw away. Zürich is  a 90 minute train ride away with hotels galore ready to welcome a Baselword traveller. But whether you come by land or air, it is on the water you can stay.  Book a floating room on the "Hotel Ship" for the duration of your trip. A free shuttle bus will transport you to the show - just 15 minutes away. 

The show does not end at closing time, Baselworld Village is open from 6pm until 2am.  Restaurants and Bars provide prime places to seal a deal over some fine wine and delectable dine.  

For the best and most productive Baselworld experience planning is crucial, but  the most memorable moment may just be chance. Make a memory, a deal, a contract, a sale, a moment.  Come to Baselworld.

De GRISOGONO Otturatore Timepiece Changes Face

Small Seconds Subdial

At BaselWorld this year one can get an eye to eye view of the new De Grisigono's Otturatore Timepiece Collection housing  four complications revealed one at a time via a rotating dial aperture.   The watch is pretty pricey costing 69,100 - 71,100 francs, but De Grisigono emphasizes the intensive research and development required to create the movement. I blogged about this watch back in 2009, when the watch was less square and edgy.  I am still deciding which model I prefer.

Moon Phase

I have to say it is a brilliant way of incorporating four complications without cluttering the dial.  Even the rotor is under wraps. 
The 18k rose or white gold case is an imposing 50mm tall, 45mm wide 16mm thick.  The pushers hold an immense presence commanding as much attention as the dial itself.  I would have thought if the complications and rotor were crafted with discretion, the pushers could have been a little less obvious.  The pushers run the show, however, initiating the 90° dial change in a few tenths of a millisecond, undetectable by the human eye.  The speed requires a two step procedure.  When one depresses the pusher another mechanism is activated which in turn moves the dial.  The pusher itself would not have enough power to move the dial at that speed, thus a second mechanism is incorporated.  The second mechanism is equipped with its own mainspring barrel, which draws energy from the lower pusher, which must be "pumped" a couple of times.

Date Aperture

The automatic DL 19-89 movement is an in house effort comprising of 574 components, 28 jewels and beating at 28,800 vph.  The clou de paris cobbled textured dial is available in silver,ruthenium, black or brown and serves as a worthy landscape for the aperture. Elegant “dauphine” style hands crafted in either 18K rose or white gold allow for a bold efficient time display.  A sapphire crystal case back allows one to view the complicated mechanism at work.  The watch is fixed with a comfortable alligator leather straps and secured to the wrist by a 18 k rose or white gold Signature De Grisigono folding clasp.  Although this watch has a 100 feet water resistance, for this price, I would hesitate to get it wet.

42 Hour Power Reserve

De Grisigono has always captured my attention ever since I first blogged about its Meccanico DG watch in 2008 and the Be Eight Collection and the "8 rules of femininity" later that year.  De Grisigono  watches are renowned for their uncanny distinction and exceptional craftsmanship. They were one of the first watch companies to use Galuchat as watch bands  De Grisigono was established in 1993 by famous diamond cutter and jeweler Fawaz Gruosi. Fawaz Gruosi leaped to fame when he
cut the world's largest black diamond, "Spirit of De Grisogono Diamond"  - 587 carats in the rough and 312.24 when cut.  It was set into a white gold ring and surrounded by 702 white diamonds - a total of 36.69 carats.  Fawaz Gruosi sold the ring to a private client. 

de Grisogono Black Forever Collection

Occhio Ripetizione Minuti

 de Grisogono adds a dash of color and a burst of brightness to its latest Black Forever Collection Edition with the introduction of its Instrumento Tondo timepiece . This year de Grisogono will be displaying its "Black Forever" collection at a special showing in San Fransico on September the 26th & September the 27th.  This year will mark the 15th year, de Grisogono has been designing luxury watches and fine jewelry in black diamonds. 

Black diamonds are quite rare. According to geologists, black diamonds came to our earth from outer space. (Source: Astrophysical Journal Letters December 20, 2006) Otherwise known as carbonado diamonds, these diamonds contain trace elements of hydrogen which indicates an origin in a hydrogen-rich interstellar space. Infrared synchrotron radiation at Brookhaven National Laboratory was used to discover the diamonds' source.

Instrumento Tondo RM N56/A

In addition, black diamonds are found only in Brazil and the Central African Republic. In all the worlds mining fields whether it be South Africa, China, India; where 600 tons have been mined, not a single black diamond has been found. Another clue to the extraterrestrial nature of the black diamond is in its make up. The black diamonds Carbonado diamonds are typically pea sized or larger porous aggregates of many tiny black crystals.

Instrumento N° Uno

Early data from scientists Jozsef Garai and Stephen Haggerty of Florida International University, as well as new research support the theory that showing that carbonado diamonds formed in stellar supernovae explosions.
Whatever the source of the black diamonds, their ultimate destination is what really counts in the here and now.  In 1996, Fawaz Gruozi, of de Grisigono, laid his eyes on the 190 carat "Black Orlov" diamond and  was smitten.  He decided to use these rare gems in his jewelry and timepieces.  However black diamonds are fragile and prone to breakage if not handled by a person highly skilled in gems cutting.
To commemorate 15 years of  de Grisogono's use of black diamonds in its jewelry and timepieces, the company has launched a special edition of timepieces named " Black Forever", which includes watches from the brands first watch collection "Instrumento No Uno" to the highly publicized "Meccanico dG"

The Instrumento N° Uno is superbly crafted in stainless steel protected by a highly resilient black PVD coating.  An automatic movement winds the mainspring.  A dual time and date commands center attention upon a black guilloche dial sporting Arabic Numerals and grey dauphine-style hands.  A black rubber strap closes via a de Grisigono butterfly buckle also comprised of stainless steel and coated with black PVD. 36 black diamonds totaling 1.1 carats adds a sophisticated dazzle to complete the look.  

Instrumento N° Uno DF S42

If you have an irresistible yearning for the complete black diamond experience, de Grisogono can assist.  The Instrumento N° Uno DF is an 18k gold timepiece unabashedly smothered in 478 black diamonds equaling no less than 8.7 carats.  Even the black guilloche dial  is set with 365 diamonds.  The black Galuchat (sting ray) strap completes the pebbled look.  This exquisite high jewelry watch is limited to but 10 pieces.  Given de Grisogono's star studded following ,including Jennifer Lopez, Alicia Keys, Naomi Campbell, Salma Hayek, Demi Moore, Eva Mendes and Rihanna, it seems de Grisigono will have no trouble finding customers for its newest Black Forever Collection.

Black Forever Meccanico dG N09

The Black Forever Meccanico (left) is my all time favorite de Grisigono timepiece and I am quite pleased, de Grisogono has chosen to incorporate this model into its Black Forever Collection.  The Meccanico is unique as it displays a digital read out below  the digital time display only utilizing mechanical white mobile microsegments.  Thus it is the mechanical movement of the watch which operates the second digital time zone display.  
 This particular model , limited to 10 pieces, is crafted from highly corrosive resistant and light weight titanium.  As with all de Grisogono timepieces, scratch resistant sapphire crystal protects the dial and ,in most models, the case back. In addition de Grisogono timepieces are water resistant to 30 meters.

The Occhio Rietizione Minuti (top image)  is simply dazzling.  167 black diamonds on bezel and lugs frame a black matt twelve-blade titanium diaphragm dial.  A minute repeater, which is an alarm complication sounds on the hour, quarter and minute on three separate gongs and utilizing a cathedral striking.   The Occhio Ripetizione was an innovative idea, developed on the same principle as a reflex camera. The Occhio Ripetizione Minuti has a twelve-shutter aperture revealing the movement while the watch is striking.  A matt alligator strap affixed via a three ply deployment buckle in 18 k gold coated with black PVD.  This highly unique timepiece is limited to 5 pieces. 

Black is in and de Grisogono, a company on the forefront of fashion and style, has provided.

Weirdest Watch Straps Ever by Artya

Artya watches are always quite creative. This time it seems as though Artya went rummaging through the long forgotten basement of a Museum of Natural History and upended jars of butterfly wings and something else to create its new "Farfalla" collection. "Farfalla, of course, is butterfly in Italian. But it is not the butterfly wings situated on the dials that got my attention. What caught my attention is the watches obviously bumpy straps. Recognize the material. No its not a galuchat strap fashioned from stingray skin -the like of which is used by De Grisogono. This strap is fashioned from something quite different. Something which may very well be cast into a witches brew.
The strap is made from toad skin. Just the thought sends shivers down my spine, but I am sure some people may like the idea. Like the idea very much.
And what of the dial? The dial, as I mentioned before, harbors genuine butterfly wings - hand plucked from the finest butterflies. And the bezel? The one bezel has been subjected to electric shocks giving the watch an eery discolored look. The other bezel bares multiple lacerations - looking very much like a crime of passion.
Artya watches are sculptures; artfully capturing human emotions with unique materials.
Powering these watch specimens are high quality Swiss Automatic Mechanical Movements

10 Year Anniversary of de GRISIGONO's first Collection

At, Baselworld 2000 we were spoiled to the sighting of the first de GRISOGONO collection : Instrumento N°Uno. Now unmistakable by its sleek bold design. In commemoration of this, Fawaz Gruosi, founder and chairman of de GRISOGONO, has unveiled a trendy colorful take on its original collection. A vibrant aquamarine watch band fashioned from Galuchat, shark or stingray skin first used in luxury watch making by de GRISIGONO, compliments the matching hour numerals and the elegant band of paraiba tourmalines (aquamarine gems).
If you notice the watch band is bumpy - these bumps are calcified papillae called "placoid scales otherwise known as Denticles and are small outgrowths which cover the skin of many cartilaginous fish such as sharks and sting rays. In watch straps the placoid scales are polished down until the denticles are rounded and pearl like.
De Grisogono has taken the natural texture of the Galuchat and enhanced it with exceptional colors and polishing, creating a timepiece where the strap commands as much attention as the watch.
The iconic Instrumento N°Uno dial sports a a dual time zone display and a large date display in the 7:35 position. Beneath the sleek dial lies a premium automatic movement.
Once again, de GRISIGONO has swept watch lovers off their feet in another remarkable vision of perfection.

What is a Galuchat watch band?

I first started noticing Galuchat watch straps on De Grisogono timepieces. A sort of bubbly textured look. But what is it?
Also known as Shagreen, Galuchat is actually either sharkskin or stingray skin. The name comes from Jean-Claude Galuchat who was Louis XV's master leather artisan. He introduced this exotic leather to France in the 18th century where he was most noted for his sheaths. He fashioned shagreen for Louis XV and his court. He placed it on objects such as snuff boxes, wig cases, furniture, jewelry boxes and toilette items. It is said Madame de Pompadour was a great fan of Shagreen.
Jean-Claude Galuchat, although the most renowned for his use of shark skins, was not the first. Shark and sting ray skins were used as early as the 8th century. The Japanese Tachi, Katana and Wakizashi used the undyd untreated skins for sheaths and hilts of swords. The rough texture of the material provided the handle with extra grip as well as high resilience. In the China Qing dynasty, the polished Shagreen were used for composite bows. In the 19th century the material was used for book bindings and pocketbooks.
The name Shagreen actually refers to rough untamed skin. The leather was most often made from a horses back and most often dyed green. Today's Shagreen is made for Galuchat which is shark or sting ray skin. Shagreen is from the French word chagrin which means sorrow or Turkish sagri meaning "the back of a horse". As the leather was rough in texture the word was synonymous with displeasure or ill humor.
None the less, Galuchat still holds a unique quality. The uniqueness comes from round calcified papillae called "placoid scales". These placoid scales are otherwise known as Denticles and are small outgrowths which cover the skin of many cartilaginous fish such as sharks and sting rays. The denticles are similar in structure to teeth.
Most often the placoid scales are polished down until the denticles are rounded and pearl like.
De Grisogono has taken the natural texture of the Galuchat and enhanced it with exceptional colors and polishing, creating a timepiece where the strap commands as much attention as the watch.

The changing faces of De Grisogono Otturatore Luxury Watch.

Complications without clutter is the best way I can describe a De Grisogono Otturatore. At first glance one perceives a remarkable looking watch with an 18K Pink gold curved rectangular case, bold hands hour markers, and an aperture displaying the power reserve display at the 6 'o'clock position. On further scrutiny ,as scrutinizing watches is what we love to do, a thin circular crevice gives us a hint of mystery and in the image below the mystery is uncovered.The face of the De Grisogono automatic Otturatore Luxury timepiece has a rotating dial which functions via a complex mechanism comprising of more than one hundred individual components assembled in modular fashion on the movement. By pressing a large button at the 2 'o'clock position on the right side of the case, the dial can be turned in one rapid ninety degree movement in either direction. Either the date display at the 3 'o'clock position jumps into view or the power reserve display at the 6 'o'clock position or the subsidiary seconds at the 9 'o'clock position or the moon phase indicator at the 12 'o'clock position.

There is no question , the craftsmanship and ingenuity of this timepiece is absolutely superb.

De Grisogono Be Eight Collections's eight rules of femininity

De grisogonoa founded by Fawaz Gruosi in 1993 has crafted some of the most exquisite watches. He has forged relationships with celebrities who have provided inspiration for new designs. He has patented his very own color - Browny Brown and had developed a shapely figure eight collection. The Be Eight Collection is voluptuously feminine. Each watch is a curvy figure eight designed with the womens body in mind: The round shoulders, slender waist and shapely hips.

This design is offered in sensual colors of pink gold, burnished pink gold, white gold or blackened white gold and glittering with varying amounts of gemstones. When Gruosi was designing this collection he implemented eight rules of femininity:

1. Adopt feminine curves. The watch case is undoubtedly feminine with its voluptuous silhouette.
2. Never leave home without a lucky charm. In the Chinese Culture Eight is a symbol of harmony and good luck. The case does resemble an eight.
3. Take pleasure in the small things. The ring beneath the upper half of the figure eight moves unexpectedly.
4. Dare to be different. This watch is indeed different and will attract a glance or two. Even the band of the watch is different, fashioned from genuine Madera calfskin straps.
5. Pay close attention to detail. If you look closely at the four hour-markers, you will notice that each marker is a figure eight themselves. The crown is affixed with de Grisogono coat of arms.
6. Keep it Simple. Simple is beautiful, and some women like it so. For the women who like things simple, the Be Eight collection is available with few or no stones.
7. Opt for color. Shimmering pink baguette cut sapphires and iridescent green emeralds are available as an alternative to the diamonds.
8. Never say no to a beautiful stone. The shapely Bezel of the Be Eight Collection is fitted with either diamonds, pink sapphires or white, black or brown diamonds.
   

The Mechanical Digital Luxury Watch.

At first glance, the De Grisogono Meccanico DG, looks like your good-quality digital watch. Look again!

This hand wound watch is actually entirely mechanical, with absolutely no digital components.

How does it work? The upper half of the watch is your conventional analog display, and the bottom portion is a numerical display controlled by 651 mechanical components. 23 cams connected to a set of gears collaborate in unison to trigger the change of hours and minutes The digital display utilizes 23 horizontally and vertically positioned micro segments. The Vertical segments are 9 mm high and weigh 25 milligrams. The Horizontal segments are 2.90 mm lengthwise and weigh a mere 10 milligrams. The segments have four sides: two opposing visible faces with colored strips and two opposing unmarked faces. As the time changed, the segments rotate by 90°, thereby displaying the correct change. The change, which can include 1 to 12 segments, occur in a blink of an eye. The watches digital numbers provide an illusion of the quartz watch, as the strips create a vivid contrast to the interior blackness of the watch.

For the skeptics in our midst De Griscono has crafted a transparent dial plate, so that the intricate mechanical workings of the timepiece can be carefully scrutinized.

This watch is an interesting piece as it is a true testament to the survival of the mechanical watches. In a previous blog of mine, I wrote about the quartz scare of the late 1960's early 1970's. A difficult time for mechanical watch manufacturers. A time when they thought they would lose all they had accomplished to a "Quartz Generation. This Watch testifies to the survival and the recent revival of Mechanical Watches.

This watch boasts a 35 hour power reserve, quite remarkable if you think about the two completely different displays.

The De Grisogono Meccanico timepeices are limited edition of just 177 exceptional timepieces. Available in titanium, titanium and red gold, titanium and rubber and titanium and platinum.