SIHH 2015 Begins today and Marks its 25th year!

SIHH is off to a flying start, where 16 exhibiting maisons are showcasing new models for 2015. Unlike Baselworld, this convention is all about watches. Salon International De La Haute Horlogerie Geneve is run by Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie established in Geneva as a result of a rapid increase in watch making brands and resulting products.   Countless brands are releasing fine watch creations and thus FHH has taken on the role of providing information and guidance to the public from watch making specialists.  The FHH is a modern Foundation which for the most part utilizes the Internet for the release of information.
In addition the FHH recognizes that Luxury Watches has evolved from a "social aspiration" into a "cultural aspiration"  The FHH focuses its primary attention on information and training in Horology.
Even after 25 years, there still is a remarkably few exhibitors.  These exhibitors, however, have quite the advantage in being part of an exhibition held so close to the beginning of the year.  Since the holiday season, and now for a couple more weeks, blog sites, and other social networking arenas are flooded with the information about new watches and novelties  unveiled at SIHH.  These 16 brands are now commanding their position in the world of horology - this year 2015.  The press kits are being sent in a flurry of Emails and watch write ups are entering a state of frenzy.

That said, who are the brands - even if you know next to nothing about watches - you are likely to have heard these names around:

A Lange & Sohne Saxonia Dual Time SIHH 2015

A Lange & Sohne - click here for their colorful 2015 debut especially a clever Datograph Perpetual Watch, a Saxonia Dual Time, Zeidwerk Minute Repeater

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Acoustic Research Episode 1 Watch SIHH 2015

Audemars Piguet - This year Audemars Piguet reveals the  perfect chime thanks to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Acoustic Research Episode 1 Watch

Baume & Mercier Clifton Big Date and Power Reserve SIHH 2015

Baume & Mercier - Releases some really elegant timepieces, which is suited at any boardroom anywhere including a really handsome Clifton Model featuring a Big Date and Power Reserve.  In addition its Hampton Collection is 20 years.  Time does speed along - does it not? 

Cartier Crash Skeleton SIHH 2015

Cartier - has crashed the party - not in anyway I or you imagine, but rather with its signature women's Cartier Skeleton Crash Watch.  Although the original inspiration for the idea is up for grabs - the resulting timepiece has always been quite a hit. 

Greubel Forsey QP à Equation Computeur Mécanique SIHH 2015

Greubel Forsey -  Writing about this rather young brand sends me reeling with inferiority  in the shadow of scientific geniuses. 
Now as they say the genre of steampunk is a mechanical alternate world - a place where mechanical accomplishments continued to evolve if the invention of electricity had never occured.  This ,my friends, is Greubel Forsey - who unveiled today the “Computeur Mécanique,”or a mechanical computer.  To all my steampunk friends out there - this is it! This is what happened if electricity was never invented and computers had never come to pass. A mind like Greubel and Forsey spearheading a mechanical revolution. Now enough of my excited caffeine frenzied rant.  Geubel Forsey's 7th invention has a bunch of patents and is a brilliant assembly of 25 sub movements with a  rotating, co-axial coded elements or its "brain" if you like which are arranged in programmable moveable sections.  The complexity of this timepiece goes beyond the usual complication and reaches a realm which has barely been touched by other watch brands.

IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar SIHH 2015

IWC Shaffhausen- heralding its "Year of the Portugieser" releases the IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar boasting two firsts: an in-house movement equipped with an annual calender and a two barrel enabling a seven day power reserve.

Jaeger-LeCoultre - A brand which has risen and risen in mechanical complexity and  reached a pinnacle of horological perfection (one of my favorite brands as you can very well tell)... and to prove my "mechanical complexity point"  the curtain opens - or should I say the heavens open onto the Duometre Spherotourbillon sporting a brand new moon-phase indicator. 

Montblanc Heritage Spirit Orbis Terrarum SIHH 2015

Mont Blanc - of fine pens and even finer watches ,pens which are a useful tool when needed and a rather coveted tool in the post office, holds no fascination for me; however, Mont Blanc watches including a new model to their new 2014 line, holds the world on a wrist and that, my friend is fascination for me.
The Montblanc Heritage Spirit Orbis Terrarum, holds the worlds view from the North Pole as Peary would have seen it - if he in fact reached that cold cold place and was able to view beyond the snowy covered emptiness. Mont Blanc's new collection depicts 24 cities beyond the bezel, displaying a 24 hour time zone.

Panerai Luminor Chrono Flyback Ceramica PAM00580 SIHH 2015

Panerai - a trendy Italian  brand who has perfected the black and brown look, releases Panerai Luminor Chrono Flyback Ceramica PAM00580.  The case is highly resilient being of a zirconium oxide base.  It apparently is five times harder than steel and resistant to scratches, corrosion and high temperatures.  Come to think of it, the Italian WWII frogmen would have loved this material for their Panerai watches, luckily for them Panerai was quite advanced with the use of Luminescence enabling them to make out the time while they dived in  murky and turbulent waters.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda 1950 Squellete SIHH 2015

Parmigiani Fleurier- how I love this brand. Parmigiani solidified my infatuation with watches and its strong ties to its history.  Although Parmigiani is current in their trends, the ties to vintage versions of itself ,to me, is so much more than a marketing ploy of other brands.  Possibly because the founder, Micheal Parmigiani spent so much time restoring mechanical watches from the much loved Sandoz family collection, and in this formed the bond that became Parmigiani.  Parmigiani's reveals a Squellete version to its 1950 Tonda Collection. a sapphire crystaled dial - The Squellete is exceptionally thin and quite complex and all can be seen via the transparent dial and case back including a micro rotor - small but visible on both sides.

Piaget Altiplano Chronograph

Piaget - A brand firmly fixed into haute -holorgerie has gone quite slender for the party while breaking two records in its wake. Read my blog on the Slim Piaget Altiplano Chronograph

Ralph Lauren Automotive Chronograph SIHH 2015

Ralph Lauren - quite new to the world of SIHH and quite new to the watch world has become an excepted watch brand. Being the only fashion watch brand at the SIHH, I think it does quite well for itself beyond the initial "fashion brand entering the real brand world" skeptism.  Of course it is a joint venture between Ralph Lauren Watch and Jewelry Co, and Richmont Group  - and since this is a mostly Richmont affair, Ralph Lauren is quite welcome.  On the other hand the venture could have gone the way of Tiffany and Swatch - but it did not and Ralph Lauren is doing quite well for itself and Richmont. So what's in store for 2015? A sporty, woodsy and seriously trendy Automotive Chronograph which gleans its inspiration from the dashboard of a 1938 Buggati.  Personally I love the elm burl, steel and black combination. Hat's off and awhistle blow to Ralph Lauren. 

Richard MIlle RM-33-01 SIHH 2015

Richard Mille - If slimmness is a Piaget Quality - What is Richard Milles Quality? ..... Got it? Got it? Give Up?   Lightness.  Richard Milles manufactures the lightest watches in the world without compromising the resilience or the precision of the timepiece.  How does the company achieve this remarkable feat?  - well in part by being at the forefront of metallurgy and innovation in watch making materials as well as not worrying about the resulting sales price of the end product.  So in light of this - What is at Richard Milles SIHH exhibition today?  RM-33-01.  A round watch! Richard Mille who is famous for their tonneau case shape has opted for quite a traditional setting.

Roger Dubuis - What does the  first brand to adhere to the new stringent requirements of the Geneva Seal reveal on this first day of the SIHH? One of the most beautiful watches in the world.  The Excalibur Automatic Skeleton Watch - somehow made more beautiful without the tourbillon.

Van Cleef & Arpels -For the SIHH 2015, Van Cleef & Arpels presents a timepiece without the artistic enameling so prolific among most of its timepieces, but rather nine new models from the iconic Cadenas Collection - Read more about the lock shaped watch in my recent Cadenas Blog.

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac Year Of  The Goat SIHH 2015

Vacheron Constantin - also fight the "whose the slimmest fight", but what always catches my attention is the new additions to their Métiers d’Art.  This year Vacheron Constantin  dedicates Métiers d’Art models to The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac the Year Of The Goat in 2015. Suffice to say, the Chinese market is huge and still largely untapped - although China has been quite instrumental in mechanical timekeeping. (How could one forget Sun-Song Heavenly Clockwork tower) and a collection dedicated to the Chinese New Year is a clever marketing strategy.  The watch is beautiful with quite a nice caliber 2460 G4 jumping hours movement featuring only four windows displaying the hours, minutes, date and days.  

So there you have it, an oh so brief run down displayed as we speak across 30,000 sq/m in Geneve - the original watchmaking capital of the world.

IWC Sponsers Plastiki

If you happen to sail in the northern pacific, you might find yourself most alarmed when peering over the bow of your vessel. You will find something quite different from the marine life you expected, even though you are some 500 miles off the coast of California, and not a human in sight. You will find a massive "plastic soup", and this "soup" is getting denser by the day. The "soup", twice the size of continental U.S.A is made up of small pieces of plastic derived from 2.5 percent of all plastic ever manufactured since 1950. 100 million tons of it! The ocean currents in the Northern Pacific herd the plastic into a large patch, that ,if we are not careful, will double in a couple of years. If that! Plastic is not biodegradable. It does not disintegrate and does not benefit the food chain, it is actual detrimental, to such an extent that bird skeletons have been found filled to the brim with lighters, brittle plastic pellets and plastic bottle caps. The plastic photo degrades which means, the plastic becomes brittle and breaks up into smaller and smaller pieces, in addition plastic absorbs toxins which may be consumed by fish and end up on our dinner table.

So what can we do about this alarming "plastic soup" discovered in 1997 by Charles Moore? First and foremost is knowledge. Knowing we have a problem, and then once established, we can make an effort to minimise the use of and recycle plastic.

I bet you are wondering what our discussion of "plastic soup" has to do with luxury watches. Good question!
IWC Schaffhausen, luxury watch company known for its collection of Pilot and Portuguese watches concerned about the dwindling resources on our planet. IWC has partnered with a dedicated environmentalist, adventurer and developer of Adventure Ecology, David De Rothschild, on an endeavour to spread the word about global sustainable issues.

Knowing the world gets bored easily and a remarkable adventure is required to spark the interest of a jaded audience, David de Rothschild has come up with a brilliant plan. He is currently building Plastiki on San Fransisco Bay Pier 31. Plastiki is a 60 foot sea vessel or raft made entirely out of plastic soda bottles and other recycled materials. de Rothschild plans to navigate his vessel from San Fransisco to Sydney, over the great undulating waves of our very own "plastic soup".

The journey will begin any day now, as the final touches are being made to the "soda bottle boat."


In honor of this great expedition IWC is releasing a limited edition Ingenieur Automatic Mission Earth Edition "Adventure Ecology" Watch. The commemoration of the mission will be engraved on the back of the watch. The 46mm steel watch houses an in house 80110 calibre automatic movement. David de Rothschild will wear the IWC Ingenieur throughout his voyage.

Bon Voyage!

Ralph Lauren Watch and Jewerly Company

This Ralph Lauren watch with the gold stirrup shaped bezel is causing quite a stir among watch enthusiasts. They are eagerly anticipating the arrival of this watch in May 2009. The watches were first unveiled at SIHH in January 2009. This watch is part of a new watch collection carrying the iconic brand name of Ralph Lauren.
This watch is the offspring of a brand new company "Ralph Lauren Watch and Jewerly Company", formed in September 2008, and based in Geneva Switzerland. This company is the partnership between two leading companies, Polo Ralph Lauren and Richemont Group. This new company will design, develop, manufacture and distribute luxury watches and fine jewelry. For both companies this venture is a first. This is Richemont's first such venture with a luxury fashion designer and its Polo Ralph Lauren first venture into the luxury watch and jewelry business.
Ralph Lauren, Chairman and Chief Executive Officer of Polo Ralph Lauren Corporation said, “I have waited a long time to create and introduce timepieces that I feel exemplify the ultimate in luxury and quality. Richemont shares that understanding and has the global reputation and experience to fulfill these shared goals. I have the highest confidence that this unique partnership will be tremendously successful and an important part of our global luxury accessories strategy.”
Johann Rupert, Executive Chairman of Richemont, said, “I have long admired Ralph Lauren. His impeccable taste, style and attention to detail are unique. These factors, combined with Richemont’s expertise in jewelry and watches has led to a fascinating business venture. Jointly, we aim to create a new luxury business, which I am confident will develop into a world leader. This is an exciting partnership and I am very happy to work with Ralph Lauren on this project. I am very enthusiastic about the timepieces we will be unveiling at SIHH 2009.”
Many people people are speculative about forming a new luxury company in times of economic uncertainty, but the overwhelming enthusiasm to the new watch collection displays positive signs for the future of the "Ralph Lauren Watch and Jewelry Company". It is pleasing to see growth and creativity.
Richemont owns a portfolio of leading international brands. Each brand is managed independently of one another, thus maintaining the unique quality and creativity. Richemont has five distinct areas of operation:
1)High end Jewelry Companies (which also sell watches): Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels.
2)High end watchmakers: Jaeger LeCoultre, Piaget, IWC, Baume & Mercier, Vacheron Constantin, Panerai, A Lange & Sohne & Roger Dubois.
3)High end writing instruments: Montblanc and Montegrappa
4)High end leather and accessories: Alfred Dunhill and Lancel
5)Other businesses: Chloe and 19.5% interest in British American Tobacco.

The survival of Luxury Watch Companies in the 1970's?

In this troubling economic times, I have decided to write about watch companies and their survival at the time of the quartz scare. A trying time for watch companies, who prided themselves with carefully crafted mechanical movements. Many Mechanical Watch Companies fearful of becoming mere historical artifacts fought for survival in different ways.

As I was tracking Harry Winston's Stock on the Dow (HDW), it was deeply troubling to me that it had dropped from $31.00 a share in May of 2008 to a gut wrenching $2.48 a share today. As I was staring at the graph, I realized that the mechanical watches had been through a scare like this, "the quartz scare" in the 1970's and many not only pulled through, but flourished. I decided to blog about a company every week who took the blow and survived. How did they survive? What did they do? How were they impacted? These stories of survival and hope are crucial in our times of economic duress where the future seems bleak and uncertain.

My first choice is IWC (International Watch Company) . A remarkable company, founded in 1868 by an American, Florentine Ariosto Jones, and saved a town of Schaffusen who had paused in its industrial development. In 1888 IWC installed electricity in its factory. Ironically, in 1944 its factory was bombed by the American air force, a fatal error. In 1957, Hans Ernst Homberger, the founder's son added a new wing to the factory and bought new more efficient machines to keep up with the constant demand of highly predictable and precise mechanical watches. Hans ensured that the latest technologies were implemented in the watch manufacturing. IWC embraced the latest quartz technology and became co founder and shareholder in the "Centre Electronique l"Horlogerie Suisse" (CEH) making monitory contributions to the development of the Beta 21 quartz wristwatch movement, which was unveiled at the 1969 Basel Fair. This movement accounted for 5-6% of the total sale of quartz watches. With this success, IWC was able to expand its collection to jewelery watches with mechanical movements for ladies. In post war period, 1973 was IWC's most successful year.

Then a period of hardship struck. In 1974 gold prices rose to astronomical proportions - over 3 times the previous price, and the value of the Dollar fell 40% against the Swiss Franc so that the price of watch exports rose to 250%. To make matters worse Japan was now bombarding the market with cheap precise quartz watches.

IWC realized that drastic changes had to be implemented if the company was to survive. IWC kept its traditional watchmaking, but at the same time grew extremely technologically advanced, feeding the consumers more of what they wanted, one innovation after another. In 1978, the first compass watch was introduced followed by the introduction of a new material - titanium.

The man of the moment was Otto Heller, Director and Chief Executive Officer. In 1978 he secured venture capital from Swiss Banking Corporation. Otto retired and Gunter Blumlein stepped in, he strove for quick implementation of planned changes, upped the existing advertising campaign, and targeted a young and free-spending customer base, placing the company on the path to success. He founded the LMH group in 1991 with 100% stake in IWC, 60% in Jaeger-LeCoultre and 90% in A. Lange and Sohne. In July 0f 2000, the LMH Group was acquired by the Richemont Group guaranteeing the Independence and future of the LMH brands as a closed unit under the current management.

Today IWC is widely popular with a large young customer base.  A great example is the IWC Big Pilot's Men's Watch 7 Day Power Reserve 18K White Gold Case.

It has a large case - 46mm, and a dial with bold clear numbers.
The large screw down crown is instantly recognizable. The hand indicators are luminous. The automatic movement has a 7 day power reserve. It is a large watch meant to be worn.