A Cartier Pocket Watch for SIHH 2012

At the SIHH 2012 Cartier will reveal an enchanting skeletonized pocket watch inspired from its 1930's pocket watch collection.  However other than the actual pocket watch idea, perfectly round shape, signature blued Cartier hands, triangular fob attachment, Cartier's latest pocket watch seems to appear from another dimension, whereas its 1930's counterpart seems rather plain and unassuming: A wholly functional timepiece rather than a work of art.   

Cartier's skeletonized pocket watch evokes a sense of mysterious awe as if it should be placed on clock tower.  The clock tower image is evoked by the skeletonized Roman Numerals making the pocket watch seem larger than life, but soon enough one eyes are drawn to the incredible craftmanship beyond the hour markers.
 The 59mm white gold pocket watch is powered by a Calibre 9436 MC Renaud et Papi hand-winding movement. Not surprising since Cartier has used a Renaud et Papi movement for its highly complex timepieces for some years now, especially for its SIHH limited edition watches. This pocket watch is a perfect example of a highly complicated timepiece,  and for the lucky owners will provide an heirloom for generations to come. 

The pocket watch is equipped with a perpetual calender, which is a complication accounting for the differing lengths of months and leap years. Most perpetual calenders need no adjustment until 2100. The Perpetual Calendar increases the watches worth as a result of its highly complex configuration requiring many components and highly skilled craftsmanship.  A tourbillon visible from both the front and back of the timepiece is quite a fitting complication for a pocket watch, for it was the pocket watch Abraham Louis Breguet placed the balance wheel and escapement within a rotating cage.  He did this to counteract the effects gravity had on the movement of a pocket watch while it was kept vertically in a pocket.  The question of whether a tourbillon does effectively negate the effects of gravity on the movement of a watch is highly debatable, but it does seems quite apt in a pocket watch.  A highly popular chronograph movement makes this already coveted timepiece into one of blatant longing.  A chronograph mono pusher enables one to command the "start, stop and reset" functions via a single button.
The aesthetics of the timepiece is undeniable.  Crafted from white gold, the streamlined skeletonization combines contemporary design with traditional watchmaking.  Blue hands and matching sapphire cabochon atop the crown declares that this watch is wholly Cartier.
Upon purchase of the Cartier pocket watch by those fortunate few (only 10 pieces will be made), the watch will be delivered with a rock crystal and obsidian stand, and a white gold chain and fob.
If I were standing on a lonely railroad station inquiring the time from the only other person in sight and if he were to extract this timepiece from an emerald green waistcoat, I would wonder if I had not been transported to a place of enchantment  far far away.

Pre- SIHH 2012 Jaeger LeCoultre Evokes an Era on a Dial

 

In 1931 Jaeger LeCoultre released a TT 1931 Reverso with a bright red enamel dial. (The color was very much that of a Coca Cola advertisement). Today this particular model is highly coveted due to its bright dial hue and fetches high prices at Auction Houses. At the SIHH 2012, Jaeger LeCoultre will unveil a reintroduction of the colored dial; however, this time the red color is done in red lacquer rather than the original enamel. . The Jaeger LeCoultre Grand Reverso 1931 Rouge Dial is simple allowing the color to command the watch unless of course one wishes to play a game of polo. 

I mention polo, because the nature of the game and its potential harm on a watches' dial actually brought about the Reverso idea.

In 1931, British Officers stationed in Colonial India would play polo in their spare time; however, more often then not the crystal of the wrist watches would get damaged during the game.
Cesar de Trey, an influential businessman, who was a close associate of Jacques-David LeCoultre visited friends in India.
A polo player approached him, "Sir, I challenge you to create a timepiece that can survive a game of polo with its crystal intact."

This challenge founded the legend of the Reverso. A Patent for Reverso was filed on March 4, 1931: A watch capable of sliding in its base and of turning completely on its axis to turn the crystal inward.

Thus the SIHH 2012 Jaeger LeCoultre  Grand Reverso 1931 Rouge Dial pays tribute to the year the Reverso idea was born as well as the alluring colors of the watches dial.

Pre-SIHH 2012 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak to Commemorate 40th Anniversary of its Design

2102 marks the 40th year Anniversary of  the signature Audemars Piguet Royal Oak design. Many watch designs vanish after a couple of years  only to crop up in Antique shops and Estate Sales, but the Royal Oak designed by Gerald Genta, has remained a strong sale for Audemars Piguet attracting young and old alike. In commemoration of this milestone, Audemars Piguet will unveil the Audemars Piguet Open worked Extra-Thin Royal Oak Limited Edition 40th Anniversary.  The open worked dial exposes the remarkable versatility of the Royal Oak design in housing a movement as well as displaying supreme efficiency.
The timepiece evokes a response of utter respect created by its formidable presence.
The case is crafted from platinum - one of the rarest elements in the earth's crust - which neither tarnishes or wears out.  Due to its extreme rarity watch companies use platinum predominantly for limited edition watches such as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 40th Anniversary Watch.  Platinum therefore is often the metal of choice for high end watch companies to commemorate important events in their companies history.
The 39mm case is the same size as in 1972, but in this commemorative model, the  automatic mechanical Audemars Piguet skeletonized Caliber 5122 is on display too, and can be views via an open worked  dial face with a satiny anthracite finishing.  The oscillating weight is crafted in 22 carat gold with the inscription "AP Royal Oak 1972-2012”.  The open worked dial and case back is protected by scratch resistant glare proof sapphire crystal and is water resistant to 50 meters.

The timepiece is limited to 40 pieces. 
Click here to learn more about the history of the Royal Oak 

Richard Mille Reveals RM37 and New In-House Movement for SIHH 2012

Richard Mille in its 11th year of watchmaking has surpassed horological expectations by crafting innovative efficient timepieces. At their third SIHH 2012, Richard Mille will introduce a new crown mechanism patented specifically for Richard Mille movements. This new crown mechanism  adds  resiliency and longevity to the timepiece and maximizes its integrity by increasing resistance to outside influences.
  In developing this new crown mechanism Richard Mille focused on the structure of the crown and its components noting the crown as being a potential weak link. In a traditional movement, the crown is exposed outside the case - extending and attaching to the movement creating a vulnerable attachment point.  This is not the case in the RM 37. The Crown ,accented in grade 5 titanium, red or white gold sporting a double sea O-ring and surrounded by a collar in Alcryn (World’s Only Melt-Processible Rubber), is separated from the case.
In most watches the stem is inserted by the watchmaker into the movement at the point of assembly, thus creating a weak point by direct connection to crown beyond the case and movement within the case.  This setup runs the risk of harming the movement in the event a sharp knock is sustained to the crown.  This can occur during a game of tennis , such as when the watch is worn by Richard Milles's ambassador -Rafael Nadel.
The engineers at Richard Mille have devised a solution by separating crown from case - eradicating the stem and thus eliminating potential harm to the movement from a blow to the crown. 
The case is crafted from  Grade 5 titanium. Grade 5 titanium is an alloy (6% aluminum, 4% vanadium, 0.25% iron, 0.2%  Oxygen and the remaining percentage titanium) utilized extensively in Aerospace, Medical, Marine, and Chemical Processing - stronger than commercially pure titanium, maintaining its stiffness and thermal properties, heat treatable, strong & corrosion resistance. 

The RM 37 movement is a brand new in-house automatic calibre CRMAI designed exclusively by Richard Mille movement designers in Les Breuleux, Switzerland. The skeletonized dial face explodes into life as the watch keeps time.  A large date aperture is highly distinct at the 12 '0'clock position flanked on both sides by red accents. Red highlights a function aperture at the 4 'o'clock position. The functions are chosen via a sleek pusher at the 4'o'clock position allowing for selection of winding (W), Neutral (N) or Hand Setting (W).  A second pusher at the 10'o'clock position allows for date change in differing month lengths; 29. 30, 31.  (A perpetual calender would not require this function since it takes into consideration the different lengths of months).

As with all Richard Mille timepieces, the RM37 has met the highest possible specifications and undergone rigorous testing procedures to ensure an optimal level of resilience, longevity and timekeeping efficiency.  All the components are scrutinized individually as well as the components exact performance in contributing to the movement as a whole.  To reach this high degree of competency, the three main components of the case - bezel, case band and case back - require 44 different stamping operations.  To get some idea of the process involved in creating a timepiece of this caliber, Richard Mille has divulged some timing and operational aspects of the RM 38 watchmaking process.  For example, the machine tooling process requires 2 days of adjustment of the bezel; 2 days for case band and 2 days for case back. The empty case alone undergoes over 255 tooling operations and ,in its final stage, over five hours of glazing and polishing. A 5 axis machine assists in creating the distinctive Richard Mille shaped case. The "Richard Mille" engraving alone (and one rarely adds this aspect to the hours accrued during craftsmanship) on back and inside curves requires 45 hours. The tripartite case (bezel, case band and case back ) is water resistant to 50 meters as a result of  2 Nitril (Nitrile butadiene rubber (NBR) -predominantly used in the automotive and aeronautical industry) O-ring seals.  20

spline screws (see inset left) in Grade 5 titanium and abrasion resistant washers in steel 316L secure the components.

The CRMAI movement has other unique factors such as power reserve of 50 hours; a unique rotor with variable geometry;  free spring balance with variable inertia as well as the usage of spline screws throughout movement.  Richard Mille is forging a path in the world of watchmaking and is one of the leading innovative watchmakers of this generation.

 SIHH (Salon International De La Haute Horlogerie Geneva) opens its door for the 20th year on 16th January running to January 20th, 2012.  Although the show has a relatively few exhibitors, only 18 (compared with Basel World's 627 watch brand exhibitors), it has proven to be one of the most prestigious & exclusive watch shows of the year.  The show is invitation only extended to the select few professionals invited by the exhibiting brands. The watch brands will take this opportunity to unveil exceptional timepieces crafted to make their mark on the watch world.