Roger Dubuis Debuts First Watch to Meet New Geneva Seal Requirements

 

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Flying Tourbillon Monopusher Chronograph will meet New Geneva Seal requirements.  Not only will the finishing be scrutinized, but the performance will be analyzed and the "casing-up" and 'watch-head" must adhere to the new requirements (see previous blog). Roger Dubuis Excalibur Flying Tourbillon Monopusher Chronograph has taken the first leap in the uncharted territory of the new era of watchmaking, smoothing the way for other contenders and heightening awareness of the distinction of a Poinçon de Genève.

Let us scrutinize Roger Dubuis Timepiece, granted on a very superficial level, but enough to gain our wide eyed appreciation and vigorous nod of approval. Capturing our immediate attention is the warm hue of the 45mm 18k pink gold case, notched bezel, lugs, crown and hands. The distinctive red chronograph hand points to a chronograph second scale from 0-60 just below the bezel.  A sub-dial at the 3 'o' clock position sports a 45-minute chronograph counter.  Our eyes get drawn to the 9 'o'clock position where a one minute flying tourbillon whirls in calculated frenzy. Tourbillon's are usually supported by a bridge above and below; however, in a flying tourbillon the entire complication is only supported on the bottom - giving it the illusion of "flying" without any support at all.

Pulling our gaze away from the hypnotic magic of the flying tourbillon, our eyes rest on the Poinçon de Genève emblazoned platinum monoblock  micro-rotor at the 6 'o' clock position, which compactly winds the mainspring with the same efficiency as the larger rotor. This micro-rotor powers an in-house caliber RD580 automatic movement.  There after in one quick saccade our fixate on the chronograph pusher which extends from the bezel in elegant opulence.  This one push piece is capable of operating the start, stop and reset functions of the chronograph, rather than the usual two.  A hint of Roman Numerals form beneath sub dials and thanks to our incredible ability of closure, we have no difficulty discerning the numbers. 

Turning the timepiece over, and running our fingers gently across the sapphire crystal case back, we marvel at the impeccable finishing and the Poinçon de Genève on the back end of the micro rotor as well. 

Changes Coming to Hallmark of Geneva for 2012

After 125 years since the legislative body of the Grand Council of the Republic and Canton of Geneva established the Geneva Seal, the Foundation Council of TIMELAB – Geneva Laboratory of Horology and Microengineering that hosted the certification of the Geneva Seal since 2009-  is about to overhaul the current requirements for obtaining the "Hallmark of Geneva".

For more details on the Seal of Geneva, please link to "What is a Geneva Seal"

The Geneva Seal was established on November 6, 1886 with a mission to uphold the integrity of the watchmaking business - to guarantee the origin, craftsmanship, durability and expertise. The legislative body of the Grand Council of the Republic and Canton of Geneva saw the Geneva Seal as a crucial step in a watchmaking market of the late 1800's threatened by the multitude of watch forgeries using the name Geneva.  Exactly 125 years later, the Poinçon de Genève, a well established and revered mark of extinction and quality, still defines excellence in movement.  However the time has come for the Poinçon de Genève to define overall excellence as well.
In 2012 the timepiece shall be examined in its entirety. Stringent criteria for the approval of the movement and external components require the submission of 2D drawings; all components of the movement or any additional modules; an assembled movement and/or module and all the external components. This is the first step with which the components  meet the initial criteria for the Poinçon de Genève”. After a manufacturer has successfully obtained approval of the movement and external components, they must submit a complete reference kit of all components of the movement, any additional modules and the external components as well as a  reference movement/module. TIMELAB will then issue an approval report.
Now the Certification Process can begin.  The components are scrutinized and tested to ascertain if the components initially approved in the first phase are identical to this submission.  Intensive inspections are conducted in areas of component inventory, movement assembly and assembled movement inventory.
The criteria for the movements are assessed in a wide range of testing conditions specifically designed to maximize the validity of the assessments.

Assessment investigates factors such as materials - interestingly any watch materials crafted from Polymers are not accepted - here you see where the new requirements are catching up with the technological advancements of the era ;  shaped parts and supplies; strip springs and jumper springs; base plates and plates for additional mechanisms and bridges; jeweling; wheel train; the escapement ; the stud and adjustment index and adjustment system.  After this intensive testing process, the components connecting the movement with the case and dial must adhere to the "Hallmark of Geneva" criteria - better known in horological circles as casing-up.
Additionally, the seal of Geneva must be displayed prominently on one of the components of the movement. It is best if the company includes the serial number as well. The serial number is recorded an entered into a database.
Finally it is time for the inspection of the complete watch, cased-up as the final end product. Factors such as water resistance, accuracy, functional test and power reserve are tested at this stage.
To maintain the reliability of the original testing procedures, the  watch is constantly monitored by the personnel of TIMELAB, who may visit the watch company and the company provides complete access to all production facilities and equipment as well as any data.  TIMELAB may take the "watch-head" at any time back to their lab to perform any other tests.  In addition TIMELAB requires a yearly report of all testing  performed by the watch company, for a period of ten years.
The new certification is available from June 1st, 2012 and all these criteria must be adhered to by June 1st, 2013.

References:
www.timelab.ch/en/17/poincon-de-geneve
Vacheron Constantin November 2011 Newsletter

Vacheron Constantin Only Watch 2011 Inspired by an Artist

It is wonderful to see the unique creations unveiled for the Only Watch Auction coming this September in Monaco to raise funds for the terribly debilitating muscular dystrophy disease. Companies use this opportunity to go beyond production requirements and consumer demands and create a singular spectacular timepiece which displays the creativeness and exceptional craftsmanship of the company. This piece is part of Vacheron Constantin's Collection which pays tribute to Métiers d'Art. Vacheron Constantin Métiers d'Art Dove Watch. The doves are symbols of hope and love.

Vacheron Constantin creates a dial of magnificent splendor combining guillochager, engraving, enameling and gem setting. Vacheron Constantin took inspiration from Maurits Cornelius Escher, a Dutch Engraver (1898-1972) whose engravings often defy the consistencies of depth perception and heuristics.
Vacheron Constantin utilizes a repetitive tiling method known as tessellation. A method whereby a plane is filled with repetitive plain figures, with no gaps or overlaps like a jigsaw puzzle.

5 different methods of decoration was used to complete the dial:

• The Engraving framing each bird is champlevé enameling - French for "raised field or raised plain, is an ancient method of enameling first used in 2 BC whereby grooves are carved into the metal surface - in this case 18k gold- after which the vitreous enamel is filled into the grooves. The enamel is heated melting entirely and filling the grooves. Once the piece has cooled down, the enamel is polished. To create perfection in this art form ,as presented on the dial, requires superior experience and expertise.
  
• The Red Birds utilize a translucide enameling method. The term "translucide" is derived from translucent - or see-through. The Red birds are in shades of Red creating the illusion of sun beams shining upon a stained glass window.
• Opolescent enameling - is usually white in color. One of the most famous items to use this type of enameling is "The Cross of St. George Egg" crafted by Fabergé's and Presented by Tsar Nicholas II to the Dowager Empress Marie Feodorovna on Easter 1916.
• Hand Guilloché method is used for the gold birds, whereby the guillocher painstakingly engraves the birds into the gold with tiny intricate repetitive patters changing the texture of the gold and thereby forming an image. Often guilloche is done by machine as this technique requires an almost robotic constancy in pattern , extreme, precision, delicacy and closeness of the line and if done by hand is excruciatingly time consuming. However, Vacheron Constantin master guillocher is able to perform guilloche by hand incorporating as much precision as a machine,and adding a uniqueness in craft only achieved by the hand of a human.
  
• One diamond bird flies among the flock glittering with 40 brilliant cut diamonds of appx 0.08 carat.

Beneath the dial beats a high-precision automatic Vacheron Constantin caliber 2460 baring the Geneva Seal. The American Alligator (Alligator mississippiensis) black leather strap is fastened by an 18k white gold buckle emblazoned with a polished half Maltese cross.

The Flattest Skeletonised, Hand-Decorated Manual-Winding Movement in all the World and for a very Good Cause.

• 
  The Watch: Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Watch
• The Cause: Action Innocence - a European non-profit organization dedicated to the protection of children on the Internet. Action innocence manages various websites which educates children on how to protect themselves in the vast open landscape of cyberspace.

For the tenth anniversary of Action Innocence Vacheron Constantin, founded in 1755, has crafted an intricate one-of-a-kind Patrimony Traditionelle skeleton watch which will be auctioned during a June 18th gala dinner in Geneva. The money raised will be donated to the ongoing cause of Action Innocence.


The slender skeletonised bridges are hand carved white gold with an "ottoman" decor to compliment the theme of the evening. At the 9 'o'clock position on the side of the case-middle, the words "Action Innocence" are engraved from white gold. The pierced mainspring barrel bares Vacheron Constantin's iconic symbol - The Maltese Cross encircled with the engraved words "Vacheron Constantin Geneve" The white gold dauphine hands point to a clearly defined minute track with subtle white gold hour markers.


Clearly the skelotinized dial is a show of remarkable expertise and incredible design, which enables the admirer to view the flattest (only 1.64mm) manual winding caliber Vacheron Constantin Calibre 1003 in the world. An unbroken record set in 1955. This slender movement includes 18 jewels, 31 hour power reserve, as well as a screw adjusted balance beating at 18,000 vibrations per hour. The movement is emblazoned with the Seal of Geneva - a Seal which I blogged about in quite a bit of detail. The Seal of Geneva is nothing to turn ones nose up to, it is quite a big deal. The Watch has adhered to 12 of The Seal of Geneva's absolute quality criteria originally outlined by the Canton of Geneva in 1886. (Click here to discover more about the Geneva Seal)


The plum crocodile strap with a white gold buckle completes the watch in a spectacular display of watch craftsmanship.

What is the Geneva Seal?

I recently purchase a Patek Phillipe Luxury Watch with the Geneva Seal. What is the Geneva Seal?

Known as Poinçon de Genève in French or Genfer Siegel in German , the Geneva Seal is the quality seal of the City and Canton of Geneva. It is a certification exclusively reserved for mechanical wrist watch movements made in the City or Canton of Geneva. It is a mark of extreme excellence, quality, precision, endurance and horological expertise.

When was the Geneva Seal created?

November 6, 1886 an enabling statute was enacted, Loi sur controle facultatif des montres (law on the voluntary inspection of watches (from Geneva)) An office for the voluntary inspection of the watches from Geneva ,at the School of Horology, was established. The function of the office was to examine and mark watch movements. Today it is primarily concerned with the finishing and decoration of the watch movement. Presicion testing is available but optional in the inspection process. The enabling statute is constantly being revised, the most recently in 1993.

Why was the Geneva Seal created?

In the late 1800's forgeries were flooding the market. The Geneva Seal was created to protect the unsurpassed quality of Genevan timepieces.

Why would a Watch Manufacturer want the Geneva Seal?

The Geneva Seal is a extensively sought after stamp with movements requiring 40% more work than other movements.. The Seal is held in high regard in Haute Horlorerie circles. The Geneva Seal is extremely difficult to obtain, only an exclusive circle of manufacturing watchmakers are admitted to its use provided they fulfill three conditions.



What are the three conditions required for issuance of the Geneva Seal?

1. Exclusively mechanical movements which at the very least must be assembled and adjusted within the borders of the Canton of Geneva.
2. Each caliber is required to meet the Regulators' 12 technical and aesthetic criteria. These criteria define the movement design, and characteristics, production quality and finishing operations.
3. The Luxury Watch Movements must be approved and Certified by the eight sworn members of the Commission of the Office for the optional inspection of Genevan watches of the Canton of Geneva, acting under the authority of the Department of Public Education.
   

What are the Regulator's 12 technical and aesthetic criteria?



Compliance with the standards outlined by the Office for the Optional Inspection of Genevan Watches must include the quality of all parts and components of the movement including those used in auxiliary mechanisms.

1. All steel parts of the movement must display polished angles, sides parallel file strokes, visible face smoothed and polished. All screw heads must either be polished or circular grained. (This type of finishing reduces friction ensuring no metal filings effect the movement)
2. Movements must be fitted on the going train with ruby jewels in polished holes. On the side of the bridge, the ruby jewels must be semi-mirror-polished. In addition their sinks must be polished. (This ensures that the lubricating oil will spread more evenly increasing the longevity of parts and components.)
3. A sliding stud cap with a round head and neck must secure the balance spring. (This particular condition creates a huge challenge for the watchmaker; however, it does improve the centering of the balance spring and thus improving the adjustment.
4. Fitted or split regulators utilizing a fastening system is required. (This condition prevents the shifting of the index assembly in the event of jarring and thus eradicating any impact on the adjustment of the movement)
5. Geartrain wheels must be beveled on their upper and lower sides and feature polished sinks. If the wheels are 0.15 mm or less in thickness , one-sided (bridge side) bevelling is accepted. (Durableness is increased)
   
6. Pinion shanks and faces must be polished. (Providing a marked reduction of friction within the movement and protect it against stray filings which may effect the longevity of the movement.)
7. The escape wheel must be lightweight. Larger wheels must be no more than 0.16 mm thick and 0.13 mm for wheels less than 18 mm across. The locking faces must be polished.
   
8. The ratchet wheel and crown wheel must be finished according to the prescribed models. (Only a select handful of watchmakers today are able to meet this condition.)
9. The use of wire springs are prohibited.
10. It is imperative that the lever's angle of travel must be contained by solid banking, excluding pins or studs.
11. Shock absorbers on movements are acceptable.
12. Regulating systems with a balance wheel with variable radius of rotation is acceptable.

Is the Geneva Seal the same as the Hallmark of Geneva?

The Seal of Geneva is the actual Seal of the Canton of Geneva which is seen punched into the movement of the watch. Hallmark is an official mark proving the quality and fitness of a product. Both names are referring to the same mark of approval.

Which companies have the Geneva Seal?

Only a select few companies submit all their movements to obtain the Geneva Seal. Vacheron Constatin and Pateck Phillipe are two examples. Other watch manufacturers submit a single collection or a single movement like Chopard's L.U.C collection and the much publicized Cartier's Calibre 9453 MC which obtained its first Geneva Seal.



Where is the Geneva Seal located?

The Geneva Seal is punched on the on the main plate and one of the bridges. The site varies according to the caliber.

Can my watch be called a Chronometer?

No! Unless the title Chronometer has been awarded by the C.O.S.C after the movement has undergone rigorous testing by the C.O.S.C.

Do all watches that display the word Geneva on its dial have the Geneva Seal?

Geneva Seals are specifically punched on the watches movement, having the name Geneva on the dial does not mean that the watch has the Geneva Seal. The name Geneva is governed by the "Bureau de controle des Montres de Geneve." The criteria for this are not nearly as demanding as the Geneva Seal. To display Geneva on the dial, a watch must be:
a) Swiss made and
b) Have at least one of the major operations in manufacturing, either in assembly of the movement or placing the movement within the watch case to be performed in the Canton of Geneva resulting in 50% of the total cost of production to be within the Canton of Geneva.

Some Watch Manufacturers like Vacheron Constantin display an additional Geneva Seal on its dial.