Thursday, April 25, 2013

Squale Professional Diving Watches

Squale 1000m Black - Orange Professional Swiss Automatic Divers Watch

Mark,  CEO of ZULUTIMEZONE - your one stop shop for excellent watches - informed me of a highly popular brand of watches which were selling like hot cakes. So I decided to do a bit of research on my own - trying to determine the mark of popularity.  I discovered Vintage Squale Diving Watches are so coveted, they barely skim the list before being snatched up. "Squale watch forums" boasting newly purchased Squale Watches are spreading around the net like wildfire.

After looking into Squale Watches I could see what all the fuss is about.  Squale are Professional Diving Watches which have proved their reliability, accuracy and resilience beneath the ocean. There heyday began  back in the sixties and seventies when world champion divers and spear fishers donned the watches at the 1967 Cuban Spearfishing Championships using the watches to keep track of time beneath the ocean.
Squales foundation began in the early 1950's.  Charles and Hélène Von Büren established the watchmaking company, von Buren SA in Neuchâtel, Switzerland. Charles Von Bürenhad loves diving and the sea.  He realized there were no watches companies exclusively dedicated to professional diving.  He produced the watches under the Squale Brand - The name means "Shark"  His daughter ,Monique, was one of his most valued watch testers and she became an excellent diver and a marine biologist. Van Buren registers Squale as its company trademark and receives its first patent for the construction of a diving watch case. In the 1960's the Squale logo appeared on more and more of the watches he produced.  In 1967 Squale Watches became synonymous  with Von Buren.  ( The "VON" logo is still emblazoned on the screw down crown of the current models of the Saquale watches).

  Squale and Von Buren sponsored many sporting events.  They were the main sponsoring partner for Maria Giuliana 'Jolly' Treleani (triple record holder and apnea world champion in 1965/1966/1967).


As a further  testament to their reliability in adverse conditions they were  purveyors in the 80s/90s for the paratroopers of the Folgore Italian Sub as well as the Italian Navy.

At the end of the 1960's, Squale introduced the first 1000 meter divers watch which did not require a Helium Valve.  This new innovation was released just a few years after Rolex introduced the Helium Valve to the market.

Squale 1000 M Blue Professional Swiss Automatic Divers Watch
The helium valve enables divers who operate at great depths and spend prolonged hours under extreme pressure breathing a mix like trimix containing gases such as helium (tiny molecules) or hydrogen (smallest molecules found in nature) to release the helium molecules that have worked their way through the o-rings or other seals. The helium and hydrogen molecules cause no damage when the watch is at great depths under pressure but as soon as the diver resurfaces, a pressure difference occurs between the trapped gas(es) inside the watch case and the surrounding air. This can cause the crystal to pop off damaging the watch thus the helium valve is a crucial edition to diving watches enabling the diver to release the gas build up and restore equilibrium. However the Helium valve requires the construction of a extra hole in the case which may, if damaged, can significantly decrease water resistance.

Squale Watches invented a double flexible gasket for the crystal  which eradicated the need for the Heluim Valve as the double flexible gasket evened out the pressure. This system ensured that there were no trapped Helium molecules trapped beneath the crystal and no danger of the glass popping off once the diver resurfaces. In addition the double gasket ensures excellent water resistance.  

One can still purchase a Squale Diving Watch with this technique at ZULUTIMEZONE.COM  in the current 101 Atm (2002 series) models. The incredibly successful double flexible gasket proves to be better than the Helium valve as there is no hole built into the case.
In addition the scratch resistant sapphire crystal at 3.5 mm is extra thick


Squale Professional Divers Watch was used by record setting 100 meter free diver, Jacques Mayol. He set many world records including a 105 meter free dive at 56 years old. He was an intriguing person who pushed the limits of human capabilities with intense physiological and mental training through utter relaxation and yoga. A French national born on April 1st, 1927 Shanghai China,  Jacques Mayol, developed a passion for the ocean and a fascination with dolphins. He became quite attached to Clown, a female dolphin, he met while working as a commercial diver at an aquarium in Miami Florida. He imitated her and learned how best to maneuver beneath the water.  He contributed immeasurably to the free-diving or apnea sport - diving on a single breath without the use of any sort of breathing equipment. His life is documented in a wonderful film, The Big Blue, directed by award winning French film director, writer and producer - Luc Besson. Squale watches are highly featured in this movie as they are known for their superior resilience in adverse environmental conditions.

Since timing is an issue of life and death in apnea sport, a reliable divers watch is a critical necessity.  Squale Diving Watches boast many features specifically designed to stand up to the pressure and adverse conditions of a sub aquatic environment. Most Squale Professional Diving Models sport the features below.  To verify if a particular model suits your needs, visit ZULUTIMEZONE.  ZULUTIMEZONE easy to read interface and exceptional watch feature detail enable you to precisely determine the which watch is for you.

The Squale 1000 M Blue Professional Swiss Automatic Divers Watch exhibits the following features for maximum resilience in  the murky and treacherous underwater environment.
  • Extra thick crystal ensures minimal breakage and enhanced dial protection.
  • Double gasket for increased water resistance and balance of Helium molecules.
  • Screw down crown for maximum water resistance.
  • 316L Steel - which is high grade steel used in medical instruments and  316L steel which has superior corrosion resistance to regular steel.  A necessity when subjected to constant contact with sea water. 
  • The watch is water resistant to 1000 meters, which is quite sufficient seeing that the  the deepest SCUBA dive on record is 330 meters performed by French Scuba Diver Pascal Bernabé, while the deepest dive by a Navy diver in Atmospheric Diving System (ADS) suit is 610 meters. 
  • SuperLuminova on hour markers and on bakelite bezel ensure readability in dim conditions.  (Read What is Lume) 
  • The bezel is treated and case is treated by a corrosion resistant varnish, which prevents any type of damage due to contact with sea water.
  • Squale Watches are powered by top notch high reliable Swiss ETA 2824-2 Automatic Self Winding movement produced by Swatch Group such as is used in Omega, Breitling, Edox and Rado timepieces. After all  ETA stands for Elegance, Technology and Accuracy.
  • The watch is affixed to the wrist via a rubber strap creating a comfortable, non-slip wear in underwater environments.
  • The Watch is presented with a 2 year Squale International  warranty.
Visit ZULUTIMEZONE for more Squale Models at unbeatable prices. 
 

Wednesday, April 3, 2013

Baselworld Gearing for 2013

The growth in the watch industry is unprecedented and no where is it as apparent as the largest World Watch and Jewelry Show.  Running from April 25th to May 2nd, 2013 1,800 companies converge on Basel, Switzerland to showcase their wares. In response over 100,000 visitors including buyers and specialists from the retail and wholesale trade, 3,300 journalists and the interested will pour into the halls to  survey the current in  trends, latest in  fashion  and avant-garde creations.
This expansive show covers no less than 106,000 square meters of exhibition. 

Omega Ladymatic Basilworld 2013 Hall 1.00
From well known watch brands like Breguet, Blancpain, Corum, Movado, Rolex, Tag Heuer and Omega showcasing in Hall 1.00 to less known, but nevertheless well regarded brands like Vulcain, Ritmo Mundo, Romain Jerome and Edox in hall 1.1 and more fashion brand oriented watches like Kenneth Cole, Juicy Couture, Guess, Anne Klein and Tommy Hilfiger watches as well as Invicta in Hall 1.2.  Hall 2.0 are predominantly brands I have never heard of or heard of in passing - many of which are located in non-European countries.  Here you will find Itay Noy (Israel); Momodesign (Italy); Obaku Denmark; Quantum (Turkey); Georgi Sabounjian (Lebanon); Longio (China); Danish Design (The Netherlands); ans a sprinkling of relatively unknown Swiss Companies as well as gem, packaging and promotional press stands.  In hall 2.1 houses the jewelry enthusiasts and in Hall 2.2 is a mixture of
everything.  For beautiful gems and antique jewelry  do not miss Hall 3.0 and 3.1. Hall 4.0 is filled to the brim with a variety of jewelry and watch companies.  Hall 4.1 will please you with a delightful collection of children's wristwatches - a growing trend and other delightful trinkets.
Arnold & Son Time Pyramid Baselworld Palace
Hall 4U is a watchmakers must with companies showcasing essential equipment required for watch and jewelry manufacturing. Those showcasing their products in the prior halls must make time to view the latest in testing technologies, production machinery,  computer software  and interesting alloys.
The Palace houses some of  my most favorite brands pushing the envelope of mechanical mastery. 
De Buthene so vibrant in my mind for its iridescent hues of blues; HYT -  the only hydro mechanical horologist I know; Konstantin Chaykin - A Russian watchmaker of incredible skill; MB & F - need I say more; Speake Marin - watches finished with immeasurable grace as well as Urwerk sporting an originality of movement .

Artya - Son of Sound Baselworld 2013 0.F
In Baselworld 2013, musical treasures tracks time while tickling the ear,  Artya in hall 0.F unveils the Son of Sound - its case a guitar head shape,  while Ulysse Nardin in Hall I places a music box upon the wrist.
Of course I have failed to mention enumerable worthy companies in which  treasures will be exposed in  Baselworld. I can say no more about Baselworld in words - one must go and see for yourself. Feast your eyes and open your mind to a world beyond the product, but to the success of dreams, planning and indescribable abilities.


Wednesday, February 20, 2013

deLaCour Genève unveils CITY CADET II "SUN AND LOVE"

deLaCour unveils CITY CADET II "SUN AND LOVE", a vibrant watch fueled by love and sun.  The dial is flamboyant no doubt, the sun's glittering rays pouring over a gleaming almost pulsating heart.
I have a feeling this baby stole the show - among the ladies - at deLaCour's January 21st-25th launch of its new collections.  The watch was in great company though, sharing the stage with Bichrono Rafaga, City Leap and an exclusive preview of the Tourbillon reflect.

Our lady in question has slimmed down a bit from its contemporaries in the  CITY collections.  This new look provides the dazzling timepiece with a more slender appearance while still maintaining a curvaceous figure. Dimensions of 42 x 41 x 12 mm provide a bold placement on wrist.  However it is not merely dimensions that draw eyes to watch but a striking combination of rose gold emblazoned with diamonds extending from bezel to lugs surrounding a dial of the deepest black. The blackness of dial is a well chosen backdrop to the vibrant red gems outlining its heart and diamonds set as a shimmering sun. Sun and heart serve the function as a dual time zone powered by an in house automatic DC 251.  A day and date are located at the 3 'o'clock position.

deLaCour is a relatively new watchmaking company unveiling its first Bichrono collection at Baselworld 2003. deLaCour is the success of three highly skilled individuals: CEO Alfred Terzibachia, Designer,  Pierre Koukjian and Louai Kuzbari - Financier/CFO.
In the last ten years, the company has unveiled a remarkable number of limited edition timepieces catering to stylistic preferences of individuals.  They have adopted the slogan "since tomorrow" - a very clever phrase for a watch company with a bright future.

Monday, February 4, 2013

"The Last Laugh" Watches by Mr Jones

Mr Jones what do we have here? With a name like Jones one can get away with just about anything and then when things get a bit out of hand, one can hide beneath a swarm of Jonesses. Why would anything go wrong while wearing a Mr Jones watch?  Oh Nothing, Its just that the UK watches have a sort of macabre glee to them which may unsettle he unsettled.
Let me start by saying, I tried to embed a video of the workings of the watch and the clacking of its teeth, but my computer worked itself into a manic frenzy so much so that I had to shut it down and turn it off encase sparks may fly and devilish words appear on the screen in blood dripping red. I turned to my much older computer who has seen many many things, and it allowed the pleasure of posting the video.

What an appropriately frightful  introduction to your watches Mr Jones! 

The  Last Laugh by Mr Jones


As you can see the time is displayed in the evil grin of a skeleton. The hours are displayed on the upper row of menacing teeth while the minutes on the lower row. The 20 jewel automatic mechanical watch uses a jumping hour display and are quite affordable at $255.00.

If one wants to ramp up the  horror of it all - raise an eyebrow or two at this maggot invested video displaying the Last Laugh Tatoo Edition, see below.  The Last Laugh Tatoo Edition is decorated in the bright colors reminiscent of the Mexican "Day of the Dead Festival" of which I blogged  about here.This watch displays the artwork specially commissioned by British Tattoo Artist Adrian Willard

Mr Jones wants to make the point of "Carpe Diem" or Seize the Day".  Lighten up we are only around for a brief moment in time. Mr Jones has a large selection of very intriguing and unusual timepieces.

The Incredibly Thin Piaget Emperador Coussin Ultra-Thin Minute Repeater


At this year's SIHH, Piaget unveiled a minute repeater encased in an ultra-thin 48mm diameter case crafted in Piaget's location at Plan-Les-Ouates specifically working a mere  9.4mm thick case of which the movement is just 4.8 mm thick.  The open-worked dial exposes all elements of the in-house Caliber 1290P.
Piaget went all out to ensure extraordinary results.  Six engineers spent three years at Piaget's location in  La Côte-aux-Fées, working on the 1290P movement. At first I assumed this watch must be hand wound judging from the slimness of the watch, but nope this watch is all automatic - its movement is developed on the base of the Caliber 1200P, which is the worlds slimmest automatic watch.  This feat is enabled by a platinum micro rotor visible at the back of the watch.
The slimness of the watch is no measure to the amount of components, of which the 1290P has a astounding 407. Some of the pieces ,like certain wheels are a mere .12mm thick, and some components are even 0.07 mm thick. The precision required in crafting such diminutive pieces requires high level of expertise and competence. Once crafted, every piece must be placed with perfection for a precision movement. An error in reckoning of a single piece no matter how small can confound the timekeeping to no end. Thus an optimal skill required in compiling the movement is imperative.
 The components of the minute repeater comprise of rods encircling the movement and two steel hammers. The minute repeater is activated by a slider at the 9 'o'clock position whereby it chimes at an incredible intensity of 64 decibels striking in the 5th octave. Hours and minutes are distinguished in sound: Hours - G Sharp and Minutes - A Sharp . The resonance is amplified by increasing the space within the case by hollowing it out as much as possible without compromising the integrity of the structure.  In addition four braces attach the case to the movement ensuring optimal transmission of the gong vibration. A gong base is attached to the movement as well as four screws on the exterior of the case. All these aspects interact to provide a super efficient minute repeater as part of an ultra thin movement.   To regulate the rhythm an inertia flywheel is used as a regulation of rythum from the time the chiming starts until it subsides.

Piaget is at the horological pinnacle of watchmaking world especially in record setting ultra-thin watchmaking.  The Piaget Emperador Coussin Ultra-Thin Minute Repeater is Piaget's 4th ultra-thin high end complication and its 11th complication.  To date Piaget has manufactured no less than 35 completely in-house movements.

Only ten pieces will be available in rose gold raising its worth and appeal. 

Monday, January 28, 2013

Artya Exposes All with the First Ever Watch Themed Watch

Artya never ceases to delight me with an unconventional representations of the watch world.  I will never forget its jab at the extreme lightweightedness watch race with the Worlds heaviest watch or its dinosaur dung depiction.  This time watch components are quite artistically placed on the dial.

I asked Yvan Arpa, what prompted him to create a watch where gears and wheels are presented upon bezel and dial, and he said,"

"I wanted the gears to take over and make more than just making them work the movement,  so I let them invade the dial the bezel."

I like the idea that this is a sort of watch movement invasion, as if the gears and cogs are tired of being cooped up within a case and  invade the dial with unbridled enthusiasm.

Although the gears and cogs and wheels are not in motion, the artistic and calculated placement of every single component on bezel and dial creates an incredible suggestion of the mechanics of a timepiece and the passage of time.

The gears on the outside of the watch hints at a world's first in automatic movement beneath: A triple non- circular gear as the oscillating mass. This innovative feat in mechanical mastery can only be achieved by highly skilled watch makers like Yvan Arpa, the owner of Artya and newly appointed COO of Jacob & Co.

Friday, January 25, 2013

Michel Jordi Dramatic Return to the World of Horology

Russia Kremlin - Michel Jordi 2012

At every Geneva Time Exhibition, I always discover a brand that has ne'er crossed my path.  This years treasure trove was that which belonged to an intriguing Swiss watchmaker Micheal Jordi.  Once I discover the watchmaker or brand they become part of my horological horizon - always scanning for a new development. I find myself on a quiet evening thinking, I wonder whats up with that company or I have not heard much of this company lately, and then I peruse around the net and discover I have missed a milestone or two.
Well Michel Jordi has entered my radar so let us see what a Michel Jordi creation is all about! In an instant I notice a unique almost baroque feel to the watches, exuding vivid colors of extraordinary flamboyance, but then I notice a definite Eastern dimensions to the decor coupled with exquisite mechanical know how.  This is not some wannabee watch company which feigns shallow uniqueness.  This watch company is the real deal with definite undeniable horological prowess.

You may have heard of Michel Jordi in the past. Even owned or still own one of his "Swiss Ethno watches",  hot sellers back in the day.  Many of his watches had signature decorations of edelweiss flowers and Swiss cows often represented on Swiss Army products. You can still find them on ebay for around £100.  His work bared a true Swiss feel.  Born in 1948, Michel Jordi is the son of a watchmaker.  In 1988 he launched opened his own company and launched the "Swiss Ethno Watch" all quartz watches - which sold over half a million pieces between 1988 and 2003.  In 2003, he saw his company virtually collapse beneath his feet and he had no option but to declare bankruptcy. 

 "Heritage Twins" 2006 - Patented System

 Rather than falling into complete despair, Michel Jordi immediately set about reinventing his company -turning it in a new direction of Haute Horology. 
 In 2004, he unveiled a plan of creation a "Twins Watch" : an intriguing concept, which involves a two part watch case connected by a rotating lock.  The twins was initially available in two "Heritage models", Limited Edition of 99 pieces per model - 99 in pink gold and 99 in grey gold. The watches were listed at 53,000 € - ways above his previous mass market "Swiss Ethno Watches".  

 It would take years before Michel Jordi saw the fruit of his labor.  He launched his new and improved brand to the Swiss Market in October 2011 and then internationally after Basel World 2012. Even this soon back in the game, Michel Jordi has quite a selection of watches ranging from Men's Complication Watches launched at GTE 2012 called "Icons of the World"  There are 8 models to this collection:

India's Taj Mahal
1) Russia's Kremlin (Image at top of Blog)
2) India's Taj Mahal

 3) Great Wall of China
4) Mount Fuji in Japan
5) Mount Sugraloaf in Brazil
6) Swiss Interlaken with the mountains of the Eiger and the Jungfrau
7) Geneva depicting the  fountain Jet d'Eau
8) New York's Statue of Liberty. 

Each model is only available in a Limited Edition of three making this collection highly valued in its rarity.

Every component of the watch has been fashioned to depict the Icons of the World creating a masterpiece of design and function.

The Russia's Kremlin timepiece ,for example,  houses a movement created by Michel Jordi in collaboration  with Jean-Francois Mojon:  Owner of Chronode S.A from Le Locle - who is renowned for winning "Best Watchmaker of 2010" and inventor of Harry Winston's Opus X.   The hand wound movement is equipped with one of my favorite complications - the minute repeater.  To accommodate for  the additional power required by the minute repeater, the movement has a double barrel, reserving one barrel specifically for the gong-striking mechanism without effecting time keeping efficiency and enabling a 72 hour power reserve. The movement is visible via a transparent case back.
Great Wall of China

Michel Jordi also commissioned  Christophe Moines for the timepiece design. The actual Roman Numeral  time display featuring hour, minute and seconds hand is off center and accommodating a depiction of the Kremlin towers and the unique St. Basil's Cathedral on the skyline.  This dial design is used for all the timepieces in this collection displaying various images relating to that particular Icon.
A small blue disc is visible at the 2 'o'clock position which presents a written indication of the time of day for the repeater. The 3 o’clock position accommodates the control lever of the repeater

A lovely day/night indicator serves as the backdrop of the Icons of the Worlds Images.  The skeletonized hands are tipped with a type of phosphor compound enabling luminescence.    The aperture at the  4 'o'clock position houses the alarm and minute counters.The On/Off repeater switch is found at the 6'o'clock position where an innovative gong is visible at the 6 'o'clock position and chimes at a low frequency of 2Hz sounding like chapel bells ringing sounding across the Swiss mountains. The sound is produced by a hammer affixed and a monobloc bell fashioned from a single rectangular piece resulting in better sound amplification.

The crown situated between the 2 and 3 'o'clock resembles a deconstructed Swiss flag.

To house an extraordinary movement requires an extraordinary case fashioned from resilient material. The 46mm case of the Russian Kremlin timepiece is crafted from titanium with hints of red gold. A cambered  sapphire crystal protects the timepiece from scratches and 100 meter water resistance protects the timepiece from harmful moisture entering the case.

       This year's GTE 2013, the new face of his brand has made a marked impression. One of the latest  timepieces is the Club 100 Chronograph which is displayed in the video below.  The "Icons of the World" were on display again this year.  A gorgeous selection of  Lady Icon Automatic displaying whimsical depictions of wooded mountainous landscape were also on display - timepieces which deserves a detailed blog.   A Mega Icon White Passion sporting a dazzling diamond bezel is one of the finest timepieces I have seen in a while.  I think we will be seeing quite a bit of Michel Jordi in the horological future. 



 A signature stamp or entire Swiss scene stamped on the watch band and dial irrevocably links Michel Jordi to his homeland in the Swiss Jura Mountains.