Thursday, February 23, 2012

De GRISOGONO Otturatore Timepiece Changes Face

Small Seconds Subdial
At BaselWorld this year one can get an eye to eye view of the new De Grisigono's Otturatore Timepiece Collection housing  four complications revealed one at a time via a rotating dial aperture.   The watch is pretty pricey costing 69,100 - 71,100 francs, but De Grisigono emphasizes the intensive research and development required to create the movement. I blogged about this watch back in 2009, when the watch was less square and edgy.  I am still deciding which model I prefer.

Moon Phase
I have to say it is a brilliant way of incorporating four complications without cluttering the dial.  Even the rotor is under wraps. 
The 18k rose or white gold case is an imposing 50mm tall, 45mm wide 16mm thick.  The pushers hold an immense presence commanding as much attention as the dial itself.  I would have thought if the complications and rotor were crafted with discretion, the pushers could have been a little less obvious.  The pushers run the show, however, initiating the 90° dial change in a few tenths of a millisecond, undetectable by the human eye.  The speed requires a two step procedure.  When one depresses the pusher another mechanism is activated which in turn moves the dial.  The pusher itself would not have enough power to move the dial at that speed, thus a second mechanism is incorporated.  The second mechanism is equipped with its own mainspring barrel, which draws energy from the lower pusher, which must be "pumped" a couple of times.
Date Aperture

The automatic DL 19-89 movement is an in house effort comprising of 574 components, 28 jewels and beating at 28,800 vph.  The clou de paris cobbled textured dial is available in silver,ruthenium, black or brown and serves as a worthy landscape for the aperture. Elegant “dauphine” style hands crafted in either 18K rose or white gold allow for a bold efficient time display.  A sapphire crystal case back allows one to view the complicated mechanism at work.  The watch is fixed with a comfortable alligator leather straps and secured to the wrist by a 18 k rose or white gold Signature De Grisigono folding clasp.  Although this watch has a 100 feet water resistance, for this price, I would hesitate to get it wet.
42 Hour Power Reserve

De Grisigono has always captured my attention ever since I first blogged about its Meccanico DG watch in 2008 and the Be Eight Collection and the "8 rules of femininity" later that year.  De Grisigono  watches are renowned for their uncanny distinction and exceptional craftsmanship. They were one of the first watch companies to use Galuchat as watch bands  De Grisigono was established in 1993 by famous diamond cutter and jeweler Fawaz Gruosi. Fawaz Gruosi leaped to fame when he
cut the world's largest black diamond, "Spirit of De Grisogono Diamond"  - 587 carats in the rough and 312.24 when cut.  It was set into a white gold ring and surrounded by 702 white diamonds - a total of 36.69 carats.  Fawaz Gruosi sold the ring to a private client. 

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