deLaCour unveils CITY CADET II "SUN AND LOVE", a vibrant watch fueled by love and sun. The dial is flamboyant no doubt, the sun's glittering rays pouring over a gleaming almost pulsating heart.
I have a feeling this baby stole the show - among the ladies - at deLaCour's January 21st-25th launch of its new collections. The watch was in great company though, sharing the stage with Bichrono Rafaga, City Leap and an exclusive preview of the Tourbillon reflect.
Our lady in question has slimmed down a bit from its contemporaries in the CITY collections. This new look provides the dazzling timepiece with a more slender appearance while still maintaining a curvaceous figure. Dimensions of 42 x 41 x 12 mm provide a bold placement on wrist. However it is not merely dimensions that draw eyes to watch but a striking combination of rose gold emblazoned with diamonds extending from bezel to lugs surrounding a dial of the deepest black. The blackness of dial is a well chosen backdrop to the vibrant red gems outlining its heart and diamonds set as a shimmering sun. Sun and heart serve the function as a dual time zone powered by an in house automatic DC 251. A day and date are located at the 3 'o'clock position.
deLaCour is a relatively new watchmaking company unveiling its first Bichrono collection at Baselworld 2003. deLaCour is the success of three highly skilled individuals: CEO Alfred Terzibachia, Designer, Pierre Koukjian and Louai Kuzbari - Financier/CFO.
In the last ten years, the company has unveiled a remarkable number of limited edition timepieces catering to stylistic preferences of individuals. They have adopted the slogan "since tomorrow" - a very clever phrase for a watch company with a bright future.
Mr Jones what do we have here? With a name like Jones one can get away with just about anything and then when things get a bit out of hand, one can hide beneath a swarm of Jonesses. Why would anything go wrong while wearing a Mr Jones watch? Oh Nothing,
Its just that the UK watches have a sort of macabre glee to them which may unsettle he unsettled. Let me start by saying, I tried to embed a video of the workings of the watch and the clacking of its teeth, but my computer worked itself into a manic frenzy so much so that I had to shut it down and turn it off encase sparks may fly and devilish words appear on the screen in blood dripping red. I turned to my much older computer who has seen many many things, and it allowed the pleasure of posting the video.
What an appropriately frightful introduction to your watches Mr Jones!
The Last Laugh by Mr Jones
As you can see the time is displayed in the evil grin of a skeleton. The hours are displayed on the upper row of menacing teeth while the minutes on the lower row.
The 20 jewel automatic mechanical watch uses a jumping hour display and are quite affordable at $255.00.
If one wants to ramp up the horror of it all - raise an eyebrow or two at this maggot invested video displaying the Last Laugh Tatoo Edition, see below. The Last Laugh Tatoo Edition is decorated in the bright colors reminiscent of the Mexican "Day of the Dead Festival" of which I blogged about here.This watch displays the artwork specially commissioned by British Tattoo Artist Adrian Willard
Mr Jones wants to make the point of "Carpe Diem" or Seize the Day". Lighten up we are only around for a brief moment in time.
Mr Jones has a large selection of very intriguing and unusual timepieces.
At this year's SIHH, Piaget unveiled a minute repeater encased in an ultra-thin 48mm diameter case crafted in Piaget's location at Plan-Les-Ouates specifically working a mere 9.4mm thick case of which the movement is just 4.8 mm thick. The open-worked dial exposes all elements of the in-house Caliber 1290P.
Piaget went all out to ensure extraordinary results. Six engineers spent three years at Piaget's location in La Côte-aux-Fées, working on the 1290P movement. At first I assumed this watch must be hand wound judging from the slimness of the watch, but nope this watch is all automatic - its movement is developed on the base of the Caliber 1200P, which is the worlds slimmest automatic watch. This feat is enabled by a platinum micro rotor visible at the back of the watch.
The slimness of the watch is no measure to the amount of components, of which the 1290P has a astounding 407. Some of the pieces ,like certain wheels are a mere .12mm thick, and some components are even 0.07 mm thick. The precision required in crafting such diminutive pieces requires high level of expertise and competence. Once crafted, every piece must be placed with perfection for a precision movement. An error in reckoning of a single piece no matter how small can confound the timekeeping to no end. Thus an optimal skill required in compiling the movement is imperative.
The components of the minute repeater comprise of rods encircling the movement and two steel hammers. The minute repeater is activated by a slider at the 9 'o'clock position whereby it chimes at an incredible intensity of 64 decibels striking in the 5th octave. Hours and minutes are distinguished in sound: Hours - G Sharp and Minutes - A Sharp . The resonance is amplified by increasing the space within the case by hollowing it out as much as possible without compromising the integrity of the structure. In addition four braces attach the case to the movement ensuring optimal transmission of the gong vibration. A gong base is attached to the movement as well as four screws on the exterior of the case. All these aspects interact to provide a super efficient minute repeater as part of an ultra thin movement. To regulate the rhythm an inertia flywheel is used as a regulation of rythum from the time the chiming starts until it subsides.
Piaget is at the horological pinnacle of watchmaking world especially in record setting ultra-thin watchmaking. The Piaget Emperador Coussin Ultra-Thin Minute Repeater is Piaget's 4th ultra-thin high end complication and its 11th complication. To date Piaget has manufactured no less than 35 completely in-house movements.
Only ten pieces will be available in rose gold raising its worth and appeal.
I asked Yvan Arpa, what prompted him to create a watch where gears and wheels are presented upon bezel and dial, and he said,"
"I wanted the gears to take over and make more than just making them work the movement, so I let them invade the dial the bezel."
I like the idea that this is a sort of watch movement invasion, as if the gears and cogs are tired of being cooped up within a case and invade the dial with unbridled enthusiasm.
Although the gears and cogs and wheels are not in motion, the artistic and calculated placement of every single component on bezel and dial creates an incredible suggestion of the mechanics of a timepiece and the passage of time.
The gears on the outside of the watch hints at a world's first in automatic movement beneath: A triple non- circular gear as the oscillating mass. This innovative feat in mechanical mastery can only be achieved by highly skilled watch makers like Yvan Arpa, the owner of Artya and newly appointed COO of Jacob & Co.
At every Geneva Time Exhibition, I always discover a brand that has ne'er crossed my path. This years treasure trove was that which belonged to an intriguing Swiss watchmaker Micheal Jordi. Once I discover the watchmaker or brand they become part of my horological horizon - always scanning for a new development. I find myself on a quiet evening thinking, I wonder whats up with that company or I have not heard much of this company lately, and then I peruse around the net and discover I have missed a milestone or two. Well Michel Jordi has entered my radar so let us see what a Michel Jordi creation is all about! In an instant I notice a unique almost baroque feel to the watches, exuding vivid colors of extraordinary flamboyance, but then I notice a definite Eastern dimensions to the decor coupled with exquisite mechanical know how. This is not some wannabee watch company which feigns shallow uniqueness. This watch company is the real deal with definite undeniable horological prowess.
You may have heard of Michel Jordi in the past. Even owned or still own one of his "Swiss Ethno watches", hot sellers back in the day. Many of his watches had signature decorations of edelweiss flowers and Swiss cows often represented on Swiss Army products. You can still find them on ebay for around
£100. His work bared a true Swiss feel. Born in 1948, Michel Jordi is the son of a watchmaker. In 1988 he launched opened his own company and launched the "Swiss Ethno Watch" all quartz watches - which sold over half a million pieces between 1988 and 2003. In 2003, he saw his company virtually collapse beneath his feet and he had no option but to declare bankruptcy.
"Heritage Twins" 2006 - Patented System
Rather than falling into complete despair, Michel Jordi immediately set about reinventing his company -turning it in a new direction of Haute Horology. In 2004, he unveiled a plan of creation a "Twins Watch" : an intriguing concept, which involves a two part watch case connected by a rotating lock. The twins was initially available in two "Heritage models", Limited Edition of 99 pieces per model - 99 in pink gold and 99 in grey gold. The watches were listed at 53,000 € - ways above his previous mass market "Swiss Ethno Watches".
It would take years before Michel Jordi saw the fruit of his labor. He launched his new and improved brand to the Swiss Market in October 2011 and then internationally after Basel World 2012. Even this soon back in the game, Michel Jordi has quite a selection of watches ranging from Men's Complication Watches launched at GTE 2012 called "Icons of the World" There are 8 models to this collection:
India's Taj Mahal
1) Russia's Kremlin (Image at top of Blog) 2) India's Taj Mahal 3) Great Wall of China 4) Mount Fuji in Japan 5) Mount Sugraloaf in Brazil 6) Swiss Interlaken with the mountains of the Eiger and the Jungfrau
7) Geneva depicting the fountain Jet d'Eau
8) New York's Statue of Liberty.
Each model is only available in a Limited Edition of three making this collection highly valued in its rarity.
Every component of the watch has been fashioned to depict the Icons of the World creating a masterpiece of design and function.
The Russia's Kremlin timepiece ,for example, houses a movement created by Michel Jordi in collaboration with Jean-Francois Mojon: Owner of Chronode S.A from Le Locle - who is renowned for winning "Best Watchmaker of 2010" and inventor of Harry Winston's Opus X. The hand wound movement is equipped with one of my favorite complications - the minute repeater. To accommodate for the additional power required by the minute repeater, the movement has a double barrel, reserving one barrel specifically for the gong-striking mechanism without effecting time keeping efficiency and enabling a 72 hour power reserve. The movement is visible via a transparent case back.
Great Wall of China
Michel Jordi also commissioned Christophe Moines for the timepiece design. The actual Roman Numeral time display featuring hour, minute and seconds hand is off center and accommodating a depiction of the Kremlin towers and the unique St. Basil's Cathedral on the skyline. This dial design is used for all the timepieces in this collection displaying various images relating to that particular Icon. A small blue disc is visible at the 2 'o'clock position which presents a written indication of the time of day for the repeater. The 3 o’clock position accommodates the control lever of the repeater A lovely day/night indicator serves as the backdrop of the Icons of the Worlds Images. The skeletonized hands are tipped with a type of phosphor compound enabling luminescence. The aperture at the 4 'o'clock position houses the alarm and minute counters.The On/Off repeater switch is found at the 6'o'clock position where an innovative gong is visible at the 6 'o'clock position and chimes at a low frequency of 2Hz sounding like chapel bells ringing sounding across the Swiss mountains. The sound is produced by a hammer affixed and a monobloc bell fashioned from a single
rectangular piece resulting in better sound amplification.
The crown situated between the 2 and 3 'o'clock resembles a deconstructed Swiss flag. To house an extraordinary movement requires an extraordinary case fashioned from resilient material. The 46mm case of the Russian Kremlin timepiece is crafted from titanium with hints of red gold. A cambered sapphire crystal protects the timepiece from scratches and 100 meter water resistance protects the timepiece from harmful moisture entering the case. This year's GTE 2013, the new face of his brand has made a marked impression. One of the latest timepieces is the Club 100 Chronograph which is displayed in the video below. The "Icons of the World" were on display again this year. A gorgeous selection of Lady Icon Automatic displaying whimsical depictions of wooded mountainous landscape were also on display - timepieces which deserves a detailed blog. A Mega Icon White Passion sporting a dazzling diamond bezel is one of the finest timepieces I have seen in a while. I think we will be seeing quite a bit of Michel Jordi in the horological future. A signature stamp or entire Swiss scene stamped on the watch band and dial irrevocably links Michel Jordi to his homeland in the Swiss Jura Mountains.
One of the stars at SIHH 2013 is the pair of Parmigiani Fleurier Bugatti Vitesse timepieces.
One model sports a bright orange dial made from Texalium - a woven fiberglass based material coated in a thin layer of aluminum. A 36mm x 50mm x 22mm titanium case installed with 6 sapphire crystals ensures optimal visibility of the remarkable Parmigiani’s 333 component manual wind PF372 movement within. A power reserve of 10 days makes its namesake proud with maximum torque optimization. The straps of course are Hermès - the result of a strong bond between Parmigiani Fleurier and the French manufacturer most notable for their fine leather goods.
These watches will run you into the six figures, but hey if you driving the car than you must be wearing the watch. These watches were released alongside a restored 1935 Bugatti T57S ELECTRON TORPEDO. Not automobile car restoration, but timepieces and automatons is an integral part of Parmigiani's history.
Parmigiani Fleurier Buggati Type 370 - circa 2004
To reach horological heights attained by Parmigiani Fleurier, one must surmise that Micheal Parmigiani must have sped along at the speed of a Bugatti Veyron. As to why I have chosen this particular super car aside for the fact that it is the fastest car in the world - visit supercars.org for verification. (At 267 mph, (429 km/h), this baby yearns for endless open roads) Parmigiani has, in time, irrevocably linked itself to the Bugatti Supercars.
Bugatti Fauborg - Circa 2008
It all began in 2004, when Parmigiani was so inspired by this well oiled speeding machine, the company created the Bugatti Type 370 and the Bugatti Supersport in white gold. The watches were specially designed to resemble a transversal engine. The result was instant success and a mere two years later, Parmigiani released the Bugatti Vitesse in titanium and the Bugatti Supersport in rose gold. Two years later the gloomy watch recession of 2008 hit. Watch companies were staring at their plummeting watch sale reports; cutting back on production and producing cheaper models in steel, but that did not deter Parmigiania - a hopeless optimist. In these dark days the company was a twinkle on the horizon. Parmigiani unveiled the ultimate in watch luxury - the $233,900 Parmigiani Bugatti Faubourg watch a worthy companion to the $2.2 million Bugatti Veyron Faubourg Par Hermes car. Luxury upon luxury.
This type of optimism was not new to Micheal Parmigiani who in 1976 chose Fleurier in the Val-de-Travers region as the location of his first workshop.
The Quartz Scare
In 1976 this region was experiencing agonizing hardships. It was the years of the Quartz Scare. Cheap Japanese quartz watches were flooding the market and the mechanical watch companies closed door after door. Companies like Blancpain became dormant while others closed forever. Exports of Swiss Mechanical Watches plummeted from 40 million in 1973 to a mere 3 million a decade later. During this period over 90,000 employees in the industry were laid off. It was a desperate time for Swiss Watch Manufacturing. Yet it was during this time of incredible uncertainty in the future of Swiss Mechanical Watchmaking, the doors of Micheal Parmigiani's workshop, against the advice of many, flung open and business begun.
Micheal Parmigiani's would not accept the fact that the mechanical watchmaking era was about to come to an end. He could not fathom how great watchmaking inventions, which had a part in changing the world we live in (see longitude blog and Great Kipton Train Wreck Blog), would merely fizzle from a crystal. His vision surpassed many, and out of a stubborn belief in traditional watchmaking, he opened his small but successful watch restoration company and a small workshop, Mesure et Art du Temps, creating original horological mechanical timepieces for collectors.
The Sandoz Family
Tonda 1950 (Micheal Parmigiani Birthdate)
In 1980, Micheal Parmigiani met the Sandoz Family of Pharmaceutical Company Novartis, fame. The Sandoz Family were also prolific collectors of automated mechanical wonders featuring as well a large amount of watches.
Micheal and the Sandoz Family met via curator, Effrene Jobin, of the Watchmaking Museum in Le Locle who had restored many of the Sandoz families collectables. Mr Jobin was getting old, and the task, for him, had become exceedingly difficult.
This type of work was right up Micheal Parmigiani alley and he worked in close collaboration with the Sandoz family restoring automatons and watches. Pierre Landolt current Chairman of the Sandoz Family Foundation, established in 1964 by sculpture and painter,Edouard-Marcel Sandoz, and Director of Novartis AG, realized that a small workshop for a man so talented in watchmaking just would not do. Micheal Parmigiani was destined for higher goals.
Parmigiani Fleurier Opens for Business
In 1996 Parmigiani Fleurier opened - breathing new life into the Val-de-Travers. With an intense knowledge of historical horological craftsmanship and mechanical understanding, component by component, Micheal Parmigiani perfected each aspect of watchmaking. Parmigiani was and still is an independent company with no red-tape restricting perfection, thus Parmigiani can concentrate purely on the mechanics of watchmaking. He creates completely unique complex masterpieces such as the first ever Parmigiani 30 Year Hegirian Calender (the Islamic Lunar Calender) see below.
Parmigiani Fleurier has created 350 jobs in the region with apprentice opportunities available in virtually all areas of the watchmaking process. For a brand to have a genuine in-house movement, all components must be manufactured by the company. It is not enough to create a lovely looking watch and then order a movement from say Swatch's ETA or Ronda (both movement are outstanding in quality). Every component must be built by the company.
I took the photo of the Hegirian Calender in New York at the Sandoz Collection Exhibition 2011
For a small company just starting out, an entirely in-house movement did not happen overnight, but rather component by component. Over the course of 4 years commencing in 2000, the Sandoz family acquired and founded production companies gathered under the umbrella of "Manufactures Horlogères de la Fondation" beginning with the December 2000 acquisition of "atokalpa" - a bar turning enterprise producing virtually all movements and the January 2001 acquisition of Elwin - a company specializing in bar turning and machine equipment. In addition an entirely new company, "Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier" - to service the extremely high quality movements. A final addition to this group of production companies, Quadrance et Habillage, in December of 2005.
The Many Faces of Parmigiani Fleurier
Kalparisma- Circa 2010
I came face to face with Parmigiani one cold eve in November of 2011 dashing through the crowded streets of Manhattan after writing my last exam of the semester. I desperately needed a place to rest my thoughts. which were still racing from one formula to another. I needed to slow my pace down just a bit. For the last month my mind was focused on exams and I did not know the Parmigiani and the Sandoz Collection was in New York. A moments decision as to the Avenue I was to traverse led me, by chance, to the door of 781 Fifth Avenue at A La Vieille Russie. I must have fell through the entrance amid a flurry of "no longer required and soon to be shredded" study papers.
In an instant I was transformed into a world of soft light and mechanical marvels.
Immediately, The Hegirian Calender caught my eye displayed in a prominent position in the center of the room. My mind still reeling with numbers tried to grasp the complexity of the Islamic Lunar Calender, but the feat seemed harder than any exam I had taken. I paid my dues and headed upstairs to a world of antique automatons, of which I had never seen before.
Parmigiani 114
Why am I writing about the Exhibition over a year later? I suppose it is because of Parmigiani's history and the connection I feel to its intense fusion with the mechanical marvels of days gone by. In this place surrounded by antique timepieces, delicate decorated birds, bejeweled critters, paintings where scenes change, a gentleman walking on his canes and the rarity of a Faberge egg, every aspect of the automaton in its mechanics and aesthetics were real and present. They were not illusions or heuristics of our competent mind. They were not fabricated beauty and images which fleet across our visual cortex only to remain for a second and then vaporize into thin air. These objects were there - a testament to fine craftsmanship of artisans long gone.
***
As Micheal Parmigiani is a restorer of antique mechanical wonders, he has taken some inspiration from the antiquities he restores. The parmigiani 114 with telescopic hands is one such model, the inspiration drawn from from an 1800 Vardon and Stedmann watch.
Parmigiani Timepieces include the Kalpa Collection for the Ladies, of which I blogged about a couple years back , Tonda 1950 Collection (see image above), Bugatti Collection, the intriguing Pershing Collection which often in tribute to sports like this Captain's Watch for 2010 FIFA South Africa and the awe inspiring Toric Collection which is worthy unto a blog of its own.
Parmigiani Fleurier Watches occupy a unique exemplary niche in the world of haute horology producing testaments of excellence with each Parmigiani Fleurier timepiece.
One of the stars at SIHH 2013 is the pair of Parmigiani Fleurier Bugatti Vitesse timepieces.
One model sports a bright orange dial made from Texalium - a woven fiberglass based material coated in a thin layer of aluminum. A 36mm x 50mm x 22mm titanium case installed with 6 sapphire crystals ensures optimal visibility of the remarkable Parmigiani’s 333 component manual wind PF372 movement within. A power reserve of 10 days makes its namesake proud with maximum torque optimization. The straps of course are Hermès - the result of a strong bond between Parmigiani Fleurier and the French manufacturer most notable for their fine leather goods.
These watches will run you into the six figures, but hey if you driving the car than you must be wearing the watch. These watches were released alongside a restored 1935 Bugatti T57S ELECTRON TORPEDO. Not automobile car restoration, but timepieces and automatons is an integral part of Parmigiani's history.
Parmigiani Fleurier Buggati Type 370 - circa 2004
To reach horological heights attained by Parmigiani Fleurier, one must surmise that Micheal Parmigiani must have sped along at the speed of a Bugatti Veyron. As to why I have chosen this particular super car aside for the fact that it is the fastest car in the world - visit supercars.org for verification. (At 267 mph, (429 km/h), this baby yearns for endless open roads) Parmigiani has, in time, irrevocably linked itself to the Bugatti Supercars.
Bugatti Fauborg - Circa 2008
It all began in 2004, when Parmigiani was so inspired by this well oiled speeding machine, the company created the Bugatti Type 370 and the Bugatti Supersport in white gold. The watches were specially designed to resemble a transversal engine. The result was instant success and a mere two years later, Parmigiani released the Bugatti Vitesse in titanium and the Bugatti Supersport in rose gold. Two years later the gloomy watch recession of 2008 hit. Watch companies were staring at their plummeting watch sale reports; cutting back on production and producing cheaper models in steel, but that did not deter Parmigiania - a hopeless optimist. In these dark days the company was a twinkle on the horizon. Parmigiani unveiled the ultimate in watch luxury - the $233,900 Parmigiani Bugatti Faubourg watch a worthy companion to the $2.2 million Bugatti Veyron Faubourg Par Hermes car. Luxury upon luxury.
This type of optimism was not new to Micheal Parmigiani who in 1976 chose Fleurier in the Val-de-Travers region as the location of his first workshop.
The Quartz Scare
In 1976 this region was experiencing agonizing hardships. It was the years of the Quartz Scare. Cheap Japanese quartz watches were flooding the market and the mechanical watch companies closed door after door. Companies like Blancpain became dormant while others closed forever. Exports of Swiss Mechanical Watches plummeted from 40 million in 1973 to a mere 3 million a decade later. During this period over 90,000 employees in the industry were laid off. It was a desperate time for Swiss Watch Manufacturing. Yet it was during this time of incredible uncertainty in the future of Swiss Mechanical Watchmaking, the doors of Micheal Parmigiani's workshop, against the advice of many, flung open and business begun.
Micheal Parmigiani's would not accept the fact that the mechanical watchmaking era was about to come to an end. He could not fathom how great watchmaking inventions, which had a part in changing the world we live in (see longitude blog and Great Kipton Train Wreck Blog), would merely fizzle from a crystal. His vision surpassed many, and out of a stubborn belief in traditional watchmaking, he opened his small but successful watch restoration company and a small workshop, Mesure et Art du Temps, creating original horological mechanical timepieces for collectors.
The Sandoz Family
Tonda 1950 (Micheal Parmigiani Birthdate)
In 1980, Micheal Parmigiani met the Sandoz Family of Pharmaceutical Company Novartis, fame. The Sandoz Family were also prolific collectors of automated mechanical wonders featuring as well a large amount of watches.
Micheal and the Sandoz Family met via curator, Effrene Jobin, of the Watchmaking Museum in Le Locle who had restored many of the Sandoz families collectables. Mr Jobin was getting old, and the task, for him, had become exceedingly difficult.
This type of work was right up Micheal Parmigiani alley and he worked in close collaboration with the Sandoz family restoring automatons and watches. Pierre Landolt current Chairman of the Sandoz Family Foundation, established in 1964 by sculpture and painter,Edouard-Marcel Sandoz, and Director of Novartis AG, realized that a small workshop for a man so talented in watchmaking just would not do. Micheal Parmigiani was destined for higher goals.
Parmigiani Fleurier Opens for Business
In 1996 Parmigiani Fleurier opened - breathing new life into the Val-de-Travers. With an intense knowledge of historical horological craftsmanship and mechanical understanding, component by component, Micheal Parmigiani perfected each aspect of watchmaking. Parmigiani was and still is an independent company with no red-tape restricting perfection, thus Parmigiani can concentrate purely on the mechanics of watchmaking. He creates completely unique complex masterpieces such as the first ever Parmigiani 30 Year Hegirian Calender (the Islamic Lunar Calender) see below.
Parmigiani Fleurier has created 350 jobs in the region with apprentice opportunities available in virtually all areas of the watchmaking process. For a brand to have a genuine in-house movement, all components must be manufactured by the company. It is not enough to create a lovely looking watch and then order a movement from say Swatch's ETA or Ronda (both movement are outstanding in quality). Every component must be built by the company.
I took the photo of the Hegirian Calender in New York at the Sandoz Collection Exhibition 2011
For a small company just starting out, an entirely in-house movement did not happen overnight, but rather component by component. Over the course of 4 years commencing in 2000, the Sandoz family acquired and founded production companies gathered under the umbrella of "Manufactures Horlogères de la Fondation" beginning with the December 2000 acquisition of "atokalpa" - a bar turning enterprise producing virtually all movements and the January 2001 acquisition of Elwin - a company specializing in bar turning and machine equipment. In addition an entirely new company, "Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier" - to service the extremely high quality movements. A final addition to this group of production companies, Quadrance et Habillage, in December of 2005.
The Many Faces of Parmigiani Fleurier
Kalparisma- Circa 2010
I came face to face with Parmigiani one cold eve in November of 2011 dashing through the crowded streets of Manhattan after writing my last exam of the semester. I desperately needed a place to rest my thoughts. which were still racing from one formula to another. I needed to slow my pace down just a bit. For the last month my mind was focused on exams and I did not know the Parmigiani and the Sandoz Collection was in New York. A moments decision as to the Avenue I was to traverse led me, by chance, to the door of 781 Fifth Avenue at A La Vieille Russie. I must have fell through the entrance amid a flurry of "no longer required and soon to be shredded" study papers.
In an instant I was transformed into a world of soft light and mechanical marvels.
Immediately, The Hegirian Calender caught my eye displayed in a prominent position in the center of the room. My mind still reeling with numbers tried to grasp the complexity of the Islamic Lunar Calender, but the feat seemed harder than any exam I had taken. I paid my dues and headed upstairs to a world of antique automatons, of which I had never seen before.
Parmigiani 114
Why am I writing about the Exhibition over a year later? I suppose it is because of Parmigiani's history and the connection I feel to its intense fusion with the mechanical marvels of days gone by. In this place surrounded by antique timepieces, delicate decorated birds, bejeweled critters, paintings where scenes change, a gentleman walking on his canes and the rarity of a Faberge egg, every aspect of the automaton in its mechanics and aesthetics were real and present. They were not illusions or heuristics of our competent mind. They were not fabricated beauty and images which fleet across our visual cortex only to remain for a second and then vaporize into thin air. These objects were there - a testament to fine craftsmanship of artisans long gone.
***
As Micheal Parmigiani is a restorer of antique mechanical wonders, he has taken some inspiration from the antiquities he restores. The parmigiani 114 with telescopic hands is one such model, the inspiration drawn from from an 1800 Vardon and Stedmann watch.
See Video below I took at the Exhibition.
Parmigiani Timepieces include the Kalpa Collection for the Ladies, of which I blogged about a couple years back , Tonda 1950 Collection (see image above), Bugatti Collection, the intriguing Pershing Collection which often in tribute to sports like this Captain's Watch for 2010 FIFA South Africa and the awe inspiring Toric Collection which is worthy unto a blog of its own.
Parmigiani Fleurier Watches occupy a unique exemplary niche in the world of haute horology producing testaments of excellence with each Parmigiani Fleurier timepiece.
